I’ll start the column with a confession: I haven’t set foot in Belo Horizonte because of a trauma that I thought would not go away. The reason? On July 8, 2014, World Cup semi-final, Germany 7 x 1 Brazil and I at Mineirão.
I know that for many this is nonsense, but, passionate about football that I am, that was the reason why I distanced myself a little from the city. Fortunately, for being a self-confessed glutton and on account of some trips to the capital of Minas Gerais for work, the city brought me back by the stomach.
With a lot of history, affection, simplicity and flavor, the mining cuisine it is one of my favorites in all of Brazil – and I guarantee that it also belongs to many Brazilians. Although unfortunately the pandemic has affected classic places (with special mention to the Borracharia Gastropub, for which I have always had a lot of affection), for me the capital of Minas Gerais remains one of the best places to eat in Brazil.
That’s why, in today’s column, I indicate the addresses I like the most in Belo Horizonte, which logically has many other brilliant ones — including specialties other than Minas Gerais cuisine — to be visited by readers.
Central Market
Belo Horizonte’s Central Market deserves a text entirely dedicated to it, as Daniela Filomeno has already done here. Founded in 1929, it is certainly the most visited tourist attraction in the city, in its more than 400 stores you can find vegetables, cheeses, sweets, roots, typical products, etc.
Once there, the mandatory stops are the Lora’s Bar to eat a liver with eggplant, King of Crackling and Pie Point to eat the delicacies that give name to the places, in addition to the Roça Capital to buy a multitude of cheeses, guava and other local products.
BH Central Market Av. Augusto de Lima, 744, Centro, Belo Horizonte-MG, CEP 30190-922 / Opening hours: Monday to Saturday, from 8 am to 6 pm, and Sunday, from 8 am to 1 pm
quiet
THE quiet is commanded by Gaius Soter and focuses on Minas Gerais “backyard food” (with creativity linked to a lot of flavor), with main ingredients such as pork, chicken and vegetables. The restaurant’s main mission is to offer customers a slow-paced moment of great pleasure.
Dishes can be ordered à la carte or from the excellent tasting menu (including a pairing option set up by the sommelier Gustavo Giacchero), with items such as white bean tile, fradinho vinaigrette, tutu foam and feijoada powder; chicken oyster, orange, liver and egg yolk; pork leg soup and roasted vegetables; and corn pie with canasta and fermented dulce de leche.
quiet Rua Rio de Janeiro, 2.735, Lourdes, Belo Horizonte-MG, CEP 30160-042 / Opening hours: Wednesday to Saturday, from 7pm to 11pm, and Saturday and Sunday, from 12pm to 4pm
Xapuri
Founded in 1987, the Xapuri It is a gastronomic institution with a rural atmosphere and has a beautiful wood stove that welcomes diners. The restaurant is in front Flávio Trombinowho succeeded his mother Nelsa Trombino at the post.On the menu, pork rinds are a must, in addition to farofa with eggplant and jerky, grilled chicken and sinhá ribs. The desserts are a show apart and are served in an endless buffet of options such as dulce de leche, guava, jams, among others.
Xapuri Restaurant Rua Mandacaru, 260, Trevo, Belo Horizonte-MG, CEP 31370-270 / Opening hours: Tuesday to Saturday, from 11 am to 10 pm, and Sundays, from 11 am to 6 pm
Tupi kitchen
Located in Mercado Novo (which is not necessarily “new” because it was built in 1960), the Tupi kitchen is commanded by Henrique Gilberto and Pedro Cunha and serves dishes prepared with items from the market itself.
Along with your partner’s beers Viela Breweryit is possible to taste the PF (which has options such as pot roast and loin with crackling), the chicken fillet (a Roman gnocchi with chicken skin and chicken liver mousse, green apple and pistachio vinaigrette), crackling with tongue and potato with pickles and anchovies.
Tupi kitchen Rua Rio Grande do Sul, 505, store 2169, Belo Horizonte-MG, CEP 30170-110 / Opening hours: Tuesday, from 11:30 am to 2:30 pm; Wednesday and Thursday, from 11:30 to 14:30 and from 17:30 to 00:00, Friday, from 11:30 to 15:00 and from 16:30 to 00:00, Saturday, from 11:30 to 00:00, and Sunday, from 11:30 to 18:00. closed on mondays
Chico Dede
THE Chico Dede is an icon of modern bohemia in Belo Horizonte and is the result of the talent of the experienced Andre Paganini and focuses on valuing the gastronomy of Minas Gerais.
On the menu, classic items are presented in unusual preparations in the Minas Gerais pub, such as okra tempura, karage (Japanese-style fried chicken) with pequi aioli, as well as cracked belly cracklings and fried ribs with caramelized chives.
Chico Dede Rua Francisco Deslandes, 438, Anchieta, Belo Horizonte-MG, CEP 30310-530 / Opening hours: Tuesday to Friday, from 5 pm to midnight, Saturday, from 12 pm to midnight, and Sunday, from 12 pm to 6 pm
Fred Sabbag is a lawyer by profession, but in his free time, he doesn’t have any lawsuits or legal procedures: one of his passions is going to bars and restaurants. The habit earned him numerous followers on Instagram (@fredsabbag) and made him a gastronomy celebrity in São Paulo.
Source: CNN Brasil