Even in mid -April the temperature in the Prefecture of Ishikawanicknamed the “Snow country “ (to which it is inspired The novel of the same name by Yasunari Kawabata), it is quite pungent; Although in Tokyo the previous day I walked in short sleeves, in Kanazawa I had to dust off the sweater, scarf and jacket from the bottom of the suitcase. This thermal difference had its advantages: The flowering of cherries, now outdated in Tokyo and Kyoto, was here at its maximum splendor.
The news of Overurism In some of the most famous cities in Japan – Like Kyoto, Osaka, and Hakone – they had pushed me to seek destinations less popular with international tourists, but equally worthy of a visit. So I decided to explore the prefectures of Ishikawa and Nagano for 72 hours And immerse myself in the beauty and culture of this region without being surrounded by the crowd. Though Kanazawa, Matsumoto, and Nagano City they cannot be defined as hidden gems and are easily accessible from Tokyo in Shinkansenare not part of the most popular tourist circuits and are therefore, therefore, more pleasant thanks to the less turnout.
The city of Kanazawa It is often described as a miniature kyotothanks to the presence of three neighborhoods of the well-preserved Geishe, historic buildings, and the Kenroku-en garden. Higashi Chaya is the oldest and most well -known entertainment neighborhood, in which many of the historic tea houses have been converted into shops, restaurants and museums and can therefore be visited inside them. After a lunch of tempura soba (buckwheat tagliolini served with hot broth accompanied by prawns and vegetables in batter) I looked for a shelter from rain to Ochaya Shimaa 1820 te-museum house designated important cultural good by the Japanese government, and remained unchanged by the feudal era (except for the introduction of electrical light).
Together with the entrance, it is also possible to buy a cup of match (Japanese green tea powder, protagonist of the tea ceremony) with traditional sweet. In the historic rooms, the panels for the Shoji paper windows trembled in the wind and the entire building seemed to sway. Only when I went to the back of the house, to take tea in a small room with tatami overlooking the internal garden, the wind seemed to settle, but the constant ticking of the rain continued. So, leaving the tea house and exchanging a few words on the cold with the elderly lady who worked there, I took courage and I walked towards the garden.
As expected, a Kenroku-en The rain continued to fall, but – as an Australian tourist commented – it was worth it even at the cost of getting wet. The name of the park means “having six characteristics”, which represent what makes it a special place from the 17th century: spaciousness, tranquility, taste for the artifice, calls to antiquity, water sources and magnificent views.
Perhaps the most surprising show was represented by gardenersdresses with a blue suit and a straw hat, who meticulously treated the garden, undisturbed by the impetuous wind that made petals and small branches flyand above all he threatened to make them fall from the rough stairs as they sculpted every tuft of pine needles with mastery. I too, undaunted, continued to wander for the garden, enjoying the relative solitude that bad weather gave to the few visitors present.
When I came across the Villa Seison-Kakuthe wide residence of the mother of one of the Maeda lords (feudal lords of this region from the 16th to the 19th century), I took the opportunity to visit a closed space on the fly: I could not have drinking another cup of tea without jumping from the chair. The home was vast and beautifully decorated, with flowers and animals painted on the wood in the lower part of the shoji panels. Like the tea house, this building also trembled in the wind, and the air currents filtered through the panels, creating cold streams that crossed the rooms. The tatami under the feet was relatively fresh (however better than a marble floor in a western building), but remained soft and welcoming. The wooden porch opened, as usual, on an internal garden, and it was easy to imagine how, on sultry and immobile summer days, sitting there could offer relief from the heat. It was equally easy to imagine The porch illuminated by the moon, while at every step the axes of the floor sang their verse from “Usignolo”. Although the ingenious carpentry makeup had been designed for security reasons (to feel the intruders), walking on the quiet days had to make us think of autumn evenings dedicated to the observation of the moon.
About an hour and a half from Kanazawa, it is found Matsumoto-Jothe oldest castle that survived in Japan, a UNESCO World Heritage Site And one of only 12 original castles across the country. Built entirely in wood, these structures were often destroyed by the fire during the enemy attacks that were conducted with arrows and other incendiary weapons.
Approaching the entrance portal, I recognized the banquet of Voluntary guidesan association composed of senior volunteers with knowledge of foreign languages ​​and a lot of good will, ready for Accompany visitors in the castle park for free (categorically refuse any tip), offering explanations on Matsumoto-Jo and wider cultural insights for a good half hour. It is not the first time that appreciation is this historical place happens thanks to the good intentions of citizens – Built in 1594, the castle was almost destroyed during the era of the Meiji Restoration (1868-1912) and was saved only thanks to a group of local volunteers who fought for his preservation.
After the visit of the castle, The Nawate and Nakamachi Dori vie, flanked by historic buildings, are perfect stages to continue the day. Nawate is known for its small shops with wooden facades in which the reason for the frog is repeated. At one time, along the river you could hear the frogs grid. In Japanese, the term Kaeru means both “frog” and “returning home”. To celebrate this double meaning and as a wish for a safe return, a statue depicting a frog, a symbol of local memory, was placed at the entrance of the street.
Via Nakamachi is renowned for its traditional warehouses, called kurarecognizable for the characteristic white and black walls with crossed motifs. In addition to its architectural charm, the road is also a lively shopping center, where you can find objects of Japanese crafts such as ceramics, lacquering and woodworking. Along the street there are numerous cafes, restaurants and clubs specialized in sobamaking it an ideal stop even for those looking for a good place to eat.
Early in the morning, after breakfast, I traveled the kilometer and a half on foot that separates the Nagano station from Zenkoji Temple. The previous afternoon, the city had not particularly struck me, so as I went up to the temple, I didn’t know what to expect. The proximity to the mountains meant that many cherries were still in full bloom, and seeing the crying branches frame the stone lanterns along the way immediately raised my morale.
The guardians of the portal seemed to open and seal the world with their expressions A-Uhn (In the temples, one of the Guardians always has a mouth open “Ah”, the other the mouth closed “Uhn”, and the meaning is similar to the Christian one of “Alfa and Omega”). Beyond them, A huge burner of incense sent purple smoke in spirals directed towards the sky. I turned on a bunch of incense sticks and thrown it into the brazier. I let hot and fragrant smoke enveloped me, hoping that the gods could look at this with benevolence Gaijin – As the Japanese call, sometimes with a certain distance, foreigners.
I entered the main room of the temple and, Struck by the architecture, by the songs of the monks and by the golden decorations, I purchased my “combined ticket” by an automatic distributor. I was not prepared for what would come later: One of the Temple assistants gave me a sheet with instructions, talking about a dark underground passage.
In the wild nature of the Ainu people, between parks where the gods are bears and vice versa, between forests, thermal sources, and lakes where algae love each other. Here is the less known Japan who loves nature
Zenkoji is an important center of the Buddhist faith and, for many, A destination of a unique pilgrimage in life. Its underground passage forms a sort of horseshoe iron, and passes under the main altar. Pilgrims face an experience that wants to represent death: you cross the tunnel with bare feet, in total darkness, always holding a hand resting on the wall – both not to get lost in that darkness so dense as to seem sticky, and To find a mystical metal handle that promises salvation and lighting.
I entered the tunnel following a pair of Japanese elderly people. Her wife had a lively and kind voice, and she continued to chat with her husband as she advanced in small steps. I was pleased to have the company of his voice, even if I only understood in half what he said. When the darkness wrapped us, I kept my eyes open, even if it would not have made any difference to keep them closed. Once re -emerged, the lady turned and remained a little surprised to see me, but then looked behind me and remained even more surprise to see that I was alone, and she told me.
While I got up from the tatami and put my shoes back, I realized that, for me, It had been a truly significant experience, not just a commercial stunt managed by enterprising Buddhist monks. The sun outside the temple slowly brought me back to reality and accompanied my visit to the other buildings of the complex.
Later that afternoon, a Shinkansen He brought me back to Tokyo in less than two hoursthus concluding my adventure in two less frequented regions, but incredibly rich in history and natural beauty. These cities, although less known by international tourists, offer a cross -section of a Japan that preserves a strong local identity, allowing you to appreciate traditions, architectures and landscapes that often escape the most beaten circuits.
In Japan, The excellent infrastructure network allows you to be creative with your itinerary and to explore destinations less beaten by mass tourism. Visit these locations not only offers a more authentic and intimate experience, but It also contributes to reducing pressure on the most tourist placesallowing local communities to preserve their culture and tradition. In this way, everyone, both visitors and residents, benefit from a more balanced and sustainable tourism.
Source: Vanity Fair
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