Mishiguene is proof that Buenos Aires goes far beyond its brilliant grills

The song “Mi Buenos Aires Querido”, performed by the iconic Carlos Gardel, is an anthem of love and nostalgia for the capital of Argentina. And, let’s face it, it represents the feelings of many Brazilians for this city that, in 2023 alone, received almost 700 thousand tourists from Brazil according to official data from Visit Buenos Aires.

Geographical proximity; easy access with daily flights from the main capitals of Brazil; ease of use of the language (long live “Portunhol”!); the cultural richness expressed in its numerous museums, squares, monuments and architecture; and the good cost-benefit compared to other international destinations are some of the factors that make Buenos Aires so attractive. However, another aspect has become increasingly important in choosing this destination for a relaxing day: gastronomy .

And if grills are the great stars of Buenos Aires cuisine, the restaurant Mishiguene proves that it’s not just meats and empanadas that shine there.

In the country that is home to the largest Jewish community in the Hispanic world, the chef’s home Thomas Kalika next to the restaurant Javier Ickowicz, It is a celebration of the cuisine of immigrants, Jewish mothers, grandmothers and great-grandmothers.

Opened in April 2014, Mishiguene means “crazy” in Yiddish, a fusion language of German, Hebrew and Slavic languages ​​that was formed about a thousand years ago, with the intense migration of Jews fleeing the persecution they suffered in the Iberian Peninsula and in France to Central and Eastern Europe, and who were called Ashkenazim.

And why the name “crazy”? Maybe a joke because Argentina has the highest number of psychologists per capita in the world. However, I dare say it’s more because the duo is “crazy” enough to challenge the deep-rooted traditions of the Jewish community and, instead of strictly following the traditional recipes for varenikes and gefilte fish, which are considered true institutions with recipes passed down from grandparents to grandchildren, they present them in an unusual way, proving that a little madness can even be found in the most traditional cuisines.

There is no shortage of boldness and creativity at Mishiguene, whose flagship dish is the “Pastrón Mishiguene”, a beef rib, cured for ten days in a mixture of salt, herbs and spices, and smoked for four hours over wood and steamed for 14 hours. The dish arrives at the table falling apart, there is no need to use a knife or fork, a spoon is enough to loosen the tender meat from the bone.

With the option of a tasting menu or à la carte, going to Mishiguene means leaving the routine behind, but discovering comforting flavors. It’s like setting off on a journey where the old and the new show that — there’s no way around it — one cannot exist without the other.

For example, the good old babaganoush doesn’t come as the spread we’re used to, it’s served with whole eggplants grilled on the grill, creamy on the inside, with a sauce on the side.

Mishiguene is not kosher (there is even a shrimp dish!) nor is it traditional. But it is as comforting as a Jewish grandmother’s house.

The crockery is all different from one another (picked up in antique shops and city markets); the wine list, of course, is full of Argentine labels; the lighting is low; the tables on the sidewalk have heaters; and pashminas are lent to visitors on cold days, offering that comfort that only matriarchs can offer.

But be careful, when you least expect it, lively music will play, a flavor that arrives in a texture and presentation never seen before will dominate the table and your mouth, and that comfort zone will shake, showing that leaving the routine is a delight!

With its recently completed ten years, the Mishiguene has plans to land in Brazil and open a restaurant in the capital of São Paulo however the partners have not yet revealed in which neighborhood, much less the opening date.

In the meantime, all we can do is catch a plane and enjoy a few days in the capital of Buenos Aires to savor its recipes.

Tomás Kalika, born in Buenos Aires, Argentina, moved to Jerusalem, Israel, at the age of 17, where he worked for a time as a dishwasher on a kibbutz and quickly adapted to life in the kitchen, eventually cooking for the famous Israeli chef Eyal Shani before returning home full of new ideas.

Tomás Kalika and the recognition of his cuisine

With over 25 years of experience and having sailed the world with cruise companies, Tomás states without hesitation that one of the most important ingredients in a kitchen is the emotional memory of each recipe and the most relevant flavors that improve the diner’s experience.

And that’s why, at Mishiguene, his goal is to promote immigrant cuisine, which he does masterfully.

Thanks to his talent, Mishiguene has been among the best restaurants in Buenos Aires since its inception. The chef’s work has gained international recognition and prestige, with his cuisine gaining prestige and international recognition, placing the restaurant among the 50 best in Latin America since 2017 (currently in 32nd place). Since then, Kalika has been chosen as “Chef of the Year” in Latin America by the Chef’s Choice Awards, an award given by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants to the best chefs on the continent. His restaurant was included in the list of the 100 best in the world in 2022, in addition to being distinguished by the Michelin Guide in 2023.

With the references and ideals that he carries, Kalika will make 2024 a special year for Mishiguene, its cuisine and its first ten years, with countless events and partnerships with other chefs to celebrate such success.

The Mishiguene Café

The chef is also in charge of Café Mishiguene, a more relaxed restaurant that does not accept reservations. There, sandwiches, medialunas, pastas, smoked salmon, pastrami, bagels, burekas and other items that serve from breakfast to afternoon snacks make up the menu and fill the tables to be shared.

Tip: Save room for the walnut baklava at the end!

Check out our Buenos Aires Guide here with lots of tips on where to eat, stay and see the sights!