Montevideo It is a city that combines tradition and modernity, and its neighborhoods are a reflection of this rich diversity. Between tree-lined avenues and historic mansions, the food scene stands out, ranging from classic parrillas to modern bars and cafes that seem to have come out of fiction.
Daniela Falcão, founder of the Nordestesse hub, which promotes the production of brands and services by northeastern entrepreneurs, was recently in the Uruguayan capital and shares tips for where to eat in three iconic areas of the city, such as the surroundings of Carrasco, Pocitos and Ciudad Vieja.
Executioner
It is the newest and most affluent neighborhood in Montevideo, with tennis clubs, houses with immaculate gardens, foreign brands and some gastronomic secrets. 20 minutes from the airport, the region has beaches, a polo club, park and shopping mall nearby.
Check it out below where to eat in Carrasco :
Bar Arocena
Open since 1929, the Arocena It’s a bar that serves the best chivito in town. Chivito is a type of Uruguayan burger, but with a nice steak instead of pressed ground beef. The complete snack comes with cheese, ham, bacon, lettuce, tomato and an egg. If you prefer, you can order it on your plate, without bread.
The restaurant also serves other versions, such as vegetarian, with zucchini and eggplant; the simple one, just with steak, tomato, lettuce and mayonnaise; a version with pancetta and another in double form, which serves two people.
Bar Arocena: Av. Alfredo Arocena, 11500 Montevideo, Department of Montevideo, Uruguay / Tel.: +598 2600 0483 / Opening hours: every day, from 9am to 3am.
García – Classic Parrilla and Bar
To eat a good grill, the Garcia is the right address in Carrasco and Montevideo. Known as one of the best addresses for meat in the capital, the restaurant uses only premium cuts with export standards.
The meals are well served and it is worth mentioning that, during the week, lunch is ideal for catching a glimpse of local executives. A branch of the house is also present in Punta Carretas.
García – Classic Parrilla and Bar: Av. Arocena 1587, Carrasco, Montevideo, Uruguay / Tel.: +598 9200 1967 (WhatsApp) / Opening hours: every day, from 9am to 2am.
Region of Punta Carretas, Pocitos, Parque Rodó and Cordón
These are neighborhoods located between Carrasco and the old center. Here there is a mix of residential and commercial areas, with emphasis on buildings from the 1960s and 1970s on the seafront and houses along the streets.
It’s where the night scene is buzzing with restaurants, tapas and jazz bars, which stay busy until midnight. Check it out below where to eat in the Punta Carretas and Pocitos region :
La Perdiz
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It is one of the best parrilas in Montevideo. The house has a very pleasant atmosphere and has a more modern feel compared to traditional parrilla houses.
In addition to red meat and pasta, the restaurant also serves fish and seafood.
La Perdiz: Guipúzcoa 350, 11300 Montevideo, Department of Montevideo, Uruguay / Tel.: +598 2711 8963 / Opening hours: Sunday to Tuesday, from 12pm to 4pm and from 7pm to midnight; Wednesday and Thursday, from 12pm to 4pm and from 7pm to 00:30am; Friday and Saturday, from 12pm to 4pm and from 7pm to 1am.
Negroni
THE Negroni is a bar and restaurant that is right in front of La Perdiz. As the name suggests, the restaurant has a wide range of Negronis, but all the drinks are very well made.
The atmosphere is modern with high tables and chairs next to the bar counter, making it a great option for those who are alone. The kitchen offers good sushi and sashimi options.
Negroni: Guipúzcoa 352, 11300 Montevideo, Department of Montevideo, Uruguay / Tel.: +568 2716 7903 / Opening hours: Sunday to Wednesday, from 6pm to 0:15am; Thursday to Saturday, from 6pm to 2am.
Toledo Tapas Bar
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THE Toledo is one of the most highly regarded tapas restaurants in the Uruguayan capital. Proof of this is that there is always a line at the door, but the turnover is quick.
Fish ceviche, gruyère cheese croquetas, filet mignon tataki, potato pie, fried squid and steak ojos are some of the items on the menu. It’s also worth a lot if you’re alone.
Toledo Tapas Bar: Dr. Pablo de María 1018, 11200 Montevideo, Department of Montevideo, Uruguay / Tel.: +598 94 867 371 / Opening hours: Monday to Thursday, from 7:30 pm to midnight; Friday and Saturday, from 7:30 pm to 0:30 am; Saturday and Sunday, from 12pm to 4pm.
El Fondito
THE El Fondito It is a young bar and restaurant, with good snacks and drinks. There are crowded tables in the garden, which is at the back of the restaurant. Pizzas, burgers, snacks and cool cocktails in a casual atmosphere set the tone of the house.
For those who like more noise and rock playlists, the balcony is a great option. It’s worth mentioning that the place is busy from happy hour until the early hours.
El Fondito: Pedro Bustamante 1222, 11300 Montevideo, Department of Montevideo, Uruguay / No telephone / Opening hours: Sunday, Tuesday and Wednesday, from 8:30 pm to 1 am; Thursday, Friday and Saturday, from 8:30 pm to 2 am.
Skirmish
THE Skirmish It is a mix of bookstore, cafe and cultural space. It is one of the oldest and most charming bookstores in the capital, with a hydraulic tiled floor and art nouveau stained glass windows that attract attention from the entrance, as well as the huge solid wood shelves.
In the back, the unexpected café, with a choice of tables inside or in the beautiful garden, seems lost in time. With a great coffee and drink menu, the place is packed for brunch – quick lunch options are also worth it.
Skirmish: Dr. Pablo de María 1185, 11200 Montevideo, Department of Montevideo, Uruguay / Tel.: +598 91 665 568 (WhatsApp) / Opening hours: Monday and Tuesday, from 9am to 9pm; Wednesday to Saturday, from 9 am to midnight.
Alphabet Culture
THE Alphabet Culture It brings together a café, bookstore and two indie cinemas under one roof. More modern than Escaramuza, the restaurant has a bakery that is worth breaking your diet, with medialunas and local fruit pies.
The freshly made toasts and mixed juices attract a very interesting crowd for breakfast and it is also a meeting place for those who don’t work at the office.
Alphabet Culture: Miguel Barreiro 3231, 11300 Montevideo, Department of Montevideo, Uruguay / No telephone / Opening hours: Tuesday to Sunday, from 9am to 11pm; Friday and Saturday until midnight.
Center/Ciudad Vieja
The historic heart of Montevideo is where tradition and local culture meet. Ciudad Vieja is one of those places where it all began, with the construction of fortifications.
THE Plaza Independencia marks the border between Ciudad Vieja and the Center, where the Estévez Palace, the Solís Theater and the Artigas Mausoleum are located. THE Plaza Matrix It is also located here and its landmarks include the Metropolitan Cathedral and the Montevideo Cathedral.
Check it out below where to eat in the historic center of Montevideo :
Puerto Market
Is it touristy? Yes. But a trip to Montevideo is not complete without a visit here. The parrillas are honest in almost all restaurants, but don’t go too far with that. It’s also worth sticking to the appetizers and trying a “media media”: a traditional Uruguayan drink from the markets, half sparkling wine, half white wine.
A tip: look for the restaurant where there are more Spanish-speaking customers – the locals know better than anyone to separate the wheat from the chaff.
Puerto Market: next to Rambla 25 de Agosto de 1825, Montevideo, Department of Montevideo, Uruguay / Opening hours: every day, from 10am to 5pm.
El Fogon
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THE El Fogon is a true institution in Montevideo. It’s full of Brazilians, the waiters are old and do everything in their own time, but it’s worth a visit.
This time, I avoided the parrillas (which are excellent) and preferred the Provencal language and a beautiful morcilla (pig’s blood sausage). It was one of the highlights of the trip. Tip: the house red wine, in addition to being very affordable, is excellent.
El Fogon: San José 1080, 11100 Montevideo, Department of Montevideo, Uruguay / Tel.: +598 2900 0900 / Opening hours: Monday to Saturday, from 12pm to midnight; Sunday, from 12pm to 5pm.
About Daniela Falcão
Founder of Nordestesse, a platform that brings together fashion, design, art and gastronomy from the Northeast states, Daniela Falcão provides curation and strategic consultancy. She was previously general director of Globo Condé Nast, where she remained until November 2020, and also editor-in-chief of Trip and TPM magazines. She is active on social media, where she shares a variety of tips about restaurants, lifestyle and travel, especially in the Northeast.
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Johanna Foster is an expert opinion writer with over 7 years of experience. She has a reputation for delivering insightful and thought-provoking articles on a variety of subjects. Her work can be found on some of the top online news websites, and she is currently lending her voice to the world stock market.
