On the rise in Brazil, foods with geographical indication want to be “new organic”

The Brazilian consumer is already familiar with the seal “organic food ” on product packaging and restaurant menus. This seal, in accordance with Brazilian legislation, guarantees that the product comes from an organic agricultural production system or a sustainable extractive process, without harming the local ecosystem.

Now, the geographical indication seeks to achieve similar recognition. But how can this be done?

The first step is clarify what agrifoods with geographical indication are . These products receive a specific seal, granted by law, with two main objectives: to protect the intellectual property of producers in that region and to preserve traditional characteristics and recipes, often passed down by ancestors and immigrants.

As Francisco Mitidieri, federal tax auditor at the Ministry of Agriculture, explains in an interview with CNN : “The geographical indication seal has the function of protecting the intellectual property of those who produce in that territory and preserving the know-how, maintaining the traditions and recipes that arrived through migratory flows and predecessors.”

Understanding the importance of geographical indication can help consumers to further value the authenticity and quality of local products, contributing to the strengthening of traditions and cultural heritage.

The second objective of the geographical indication seal is to promote products, ensuring that producers are valued and that their products are added value. In addition, the seal ensures that consumers can trust the authenticity of what they are consuming, as indicated on the packaging.

In Brazil, the National Institute of Intellectual Property (INPI) is responsible for granting these seals. There are two main classifications: indication of origin and the denomination of origin .

• Indication of Origin (IP) : certifies that the product originates from a country, city or specific region known as the center of production of a particular item.
• Denomination of Origin (DO) : recognizes, in addition to the country or region, that the product has distinct characteristics due to the geographical factors where it is produced.

These ratings help highlight and value local products, promoting the authenticity and quality that consumers seek.

“The indication of origin is recognized when you have notoriety, when the product has acquired fame for being typical or traditional, produced only in that region and by those people,” says Mitidieri.

The designation of origin is more complex. In addition to its reputation, the product needs to prove a causal link between its characteristics and the region in which it is made.

“With the designation of origin seal, if you reproduce that product in another location that does not have these unique characteristics, climate and environmental situations, you cannot have the same product, so that is the difference”. Some Examples of characteristics that are taken into account in the analysis of designation of origin: soil characteristics, minimum and maximum daily temperature, number of cloudy or sunny days per year, length of day, soil characteristics, etc.

In Brazil, the legislation that deals with this issue dates back to 1996, and the country is still in its infancy. According to data from the Ministry of Agriculture, there are only 118 geographical indication seals in the country, 85% of which are for agri-food products, compared to more than 900 in France and 2,400 in China, for example. But requests for new seals are in full swing.

See the updated list of products with designation of origin

See the updated list of products with indication of origin

“Geographical indications are an instrument for promoting economic, cultural and social development,” argues Mabel Guimarães, from Origens Paraná. She spoke at Connection Terroirs, an event about geographical indications that took place in Gramado at the end of August. According to Mabel, in addition to promoting the product, the region that receives a GI seal can develop, creating museums, demonstration workshops and fostering experiential tourism.

Mabel cites as a success story the banana candies from Antonina, in Paraná, which even inspired liquid soap and other products with the essence of the sweet treat that marked the childhood of many people from Paraná.

Sustainability for small producers

In addition to selling products, experts indicate that agrifoods with geographical indication can also help in economic sustainability of small farmers .

“Talking about terroir, about something that I produce in a certain territory with a certain quality and with a certain characteristic, is cool, it’s stimulating, but if we don’t provide a way for this terroir to survive, we could be wasting precious time for these small producers,” he said. Milton Zuanazzi, project director of the Ministry of Reconstruction of Rio Grande do Sul, at Connection Terroirs.

“I don’t see any other way of making this economy viable other than through tourism,” he emphasizes.

He argues that small producers should try to bring tourists to their properties, offering local experiences and even small guesthouses. “What economy is more creative than taking tourists to where something is being produced? That is pure creative economy” argues Milton.

According to him, this new way of thinking about products with GI can also help keep young people in the countryside, providing job opportunities that they previously sought in the cities.

“I believe that with the appreciation of the GI, you can organize the properties in the region a little more. To be within a geographical indication, you have to meet certain criteria. With these protocols, these requirements that the GI has, we can organize the properties, we have more accessibility, we can also develop the family, which has this profitability that comes from the GI. In the end, we also seek financial appreciation”, says the coffee producer. Jonas Aparecido da Silva, ddirector of the Association of Coffee Producers of Northern Pioneiro do Paraná.

And tourists also benefit from GIs. For Giovana Ulian, who spoke about regenerative tourism at Connection Terroirs, Tourists don’t want to pay for replicated things, they want to travel in search of unique and original experiences. And that’s what regions with GIs, unique by definition, can offer.

How producers can obtain the Geographical Indication Seal

For a producer to obtain the seal of Geographical Indication (GI) it is essential to understand that this is not an individual property, but rather a certification for an entire region.

“The geographical indication is a collective asset. The territory is the one that holds the possibility of using this seal. Normally, the collective has an association, a cooperative or a union that represents this collective”, recalls Mitidieri.

Therefore, producers located in regions with products known for their unique characteristics must organize themselves collectively and seek support from specialized institutions.

Eduardo Spers, professor at the Luiz de Queiroz College of Agriculture (ESALQ/USP), highlights the famous pamonha from Piracicaba as an example. Although the product is recognized, it does not yet have the GI seal. According to him, storytellingor the narrative around the product, is an important differentiator for products with GI.

Spers leads a project that analyzes Brazilian GIs, evaluating both successful cases and those in the early stages of development. The goal is to identify influencing factors and support future initiatives.

In the state of São Paulo, there are several offices and institutions ready to help identify and formalize new GIs. “Imagine the hidden potential in each city in the state of São Paulo. What can each one reveal in terms of information and storytelling that can be organized and formalized to generate competitive value for small producers?” asks Spers.

(The journalist traveled to Gramado at the invitation of Connection Terroirs)

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Source: CNN Brasil