This article is published in number 41 of Vanity Fair on newsstands until 12 October 2021
Fashion has always been a laboratory of the present. Sometimes (and at best), an observatory on the future. In the last few weeks and after almost two years of pandemic, she has returned to present her shows live in an international event that passed from New York to London, Milan and finally ended in Paris. Due to its nature, focused on change and on the need to provide an outfit suitable for the reality that surrounds it, fashion has carved out the role of pioneer in history, a sort of oracle that anticipates the fate of the world while everyone thinks it tells only a story of clothes and handbags.
Perhaps also for this reason, seeing her so surrendered, so similar to her self-image before the pandemic, has a certain effect. Of course, there was no shortage of beautiful collections, and some stylists have even tried to unhinge the mechanisms of a system that needs to be rethought. But the general tone was one of surrender to what was known before everything changed.
We continue to write it: in these almost two years of interruption, pause, distancing from the “before”, we find ourselves in an “after” that can only be different. And fashion has probably not failed: it is simply the mirror of a world, or a part of it, which will continue to ignore it for at least another six months. Yet, we are convinced, under these ashes of the present there is a completely different fire. The beauty revolution, which we try to tell you in this issue. The need to change the face of the planet (narrated by the protagonist par excellence, Greta Thunberg, on page 90). The rejection of populist and reactionary moralisms that privately practice what they publicly persecute (as Roberto D’Agostino recounts on page 25). Or some questions about justice, as the Tlons argue (on page 19), two young philosophers and popularizers now an integral part of Vanity Fair.
The topics are numerous, important and often come from the new generations, a team of activists, thinkers, creatives and writers who every week we try to tell you about or involve in this newspaper. Their spirit, their desire to change things are perhaps the novelty that fashion and a certain world are not considering.
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