The first good news of Taverns of Italy 2022 is represented by the return of the snails, the sign of excellence that has always been linked to Slow Food, which last year had rightly been removed from the guide: for the more than 200 collaborators it had been impossible to evaluate premises open four to five months at most, in the window between the two lockwons. “We decided it was time to go back to doing the usual job, so indicate the taverns that most convinced us because they are authentic and contemporary interpreters of the restaurant model that we have been observing with enthusiasm and professionalism for over thirty years” they explain Marco Bolasco and Eugenio Signoroni, editors of the volume published by Slow Food. The second good news is that despite a very complicated two-year period, the scenario is encouraging. First of all, in the growth of numbers: out of 1713 places reviewed (1697 in Taverns of Italy 2021), the Guide has 120 innovations, including many new ones opened in the last two years. Here are also included catering establishments of a similar system and offer, but with specific characteristics of each region: examples are the pizzerias in Campania, i stove in Puglia and piadinerie in Emilia Romagna and from this year the ovens and the addresses where to buy the focaccias of Genoa and Recco.
To this is added an equally interesting fact: the places that, due to closure or change of their path, have left the Guide, of which there is a decidedly moderate number. These are evident signs that show how the taverns have withstood the blow. The regions with the most represented taverns are Campania (177), Tuscany (145) and Piedmont (136), followed by Emilia Romagna (124) and Puglia (111). Campania is also the region with the highest number of snails, the recognition assigned for the environment, cuisine and hospitality in harmony with Slow Food: there are 23. On the podium there are also Tuscany and Piedmont (with 22 each ) while following there are Puglia and Emilia Romagna (19). It must be said that Osterie d’Italia 2022 also offers clear indications of the way in which the sector has evolved during and after the period of health emergency: a decrease in the number of seats and a change in opening hours, is first of all paid a great diffusion of dehors, but also a generalized increase in the average price of the premises present in the guide. It was predictable.
Bolasco and Signoroni further comment: “The excellent result of the taverns, even when compared with other realities in the catering sector, is a direct reflection of the structure of the same: in fact, most of them are places managed by family or friends, which it has allowed considerable flexibility and adaptation during periods of great change such as the one we have just experienced, because they are free from much more rigid, set economic logic. Another element is given by the peculiar welcome of these places, easily recognized by the public: when the restaurants reopened, we witnessed a literal storming of the taverns. Last but not least, the fact remains that taverns are the most accessible places, in terms of price as well as in service, in the way of being, in the kitchen. As the numbers of the 2022 Guide already show, we are convinced that the tavern will be the restaurant model that will stand up best. ” It is no coincidence that the six special prizes, which for the first time were also awarded to places that have not already won the Snail in the guide: an invitation not to give up, to follow suit.