5.00 pm: at the Ritz, Anna Wintour announces Vogue World: Paris in the presence of Pharrell Williams, Olivier Rousteing, Marine Serre and Simon Porte Jacquemus
A few dozen people – press, influencers, fashion celebrities including John Galliano and make-up artist Pat McGrath – took their places under the moldings of what was once the Espadon restaurant. Anna Wintour (in a dress that, if not for the yellow floral print, might have looked blue, white and red) spoke. Vogue Worldthe event at the crossroads of fashion and culture, arrives in Paris on June 23rd.
Sidney Toledano, Anne Hidalgo, Bruno Pavlovsky and Anna Wintour.
François Goizé
Erwan Konaté, Tiavo Randrianida, Enzo Lefort, Carlota Dudeck.
©François Goizé
Marine Serre, Pharrell Williams, Simon Porte Jacquemus and Olivier Rousteing.
François GoizéAfter New York in 2022 and London last year, it is in the Ville Lumière that the evening will take place, in the name of sports and fashion, orchestrated as an opening ceremony for the Olympic Games. A host of talents (including style legends Carine Roitfeld and Ib Kamara) will help organize this exceptional event on Place Vendôme, home to the world's best jewelers. After all, as Anna Wintour points out with subtle humor, all athletes love gold. But in this case it is (also) for a good cause: part of the proceeds are in fact destined for the Secours Populaire. (Pierre Groppo)
5.30pm: Pressiat, violin and snowflakes
There Paris Fashion Week it opens in the rain (a good omen, some would say) with the parade of the enfant terrible Vincent Garnier Pressiat, which took place in a former Banque de France, now in ruins, in the heart of the capital. Among the guests were the great Jean-Paul Gaultierthe winner of Drag Race Keiona Revlon, Rick Owens' protégé Tyrone Dylan and the young designer Charles de Vilmorin.
Pressiat makes us wait with a strange sound that echoes his name. On stage: the holographic emblem of an old white Cadillac, surrounded by snow and tires. Suddenly, the engine explodes: a violinist starts playing a melody that arises from the chaos and the first looks appear. The clothes are unisex, or at least gender neutral, mainly Mongolian faux fur jackets paired with long, sheer skirts in velvet devoured by sequins.

The Pressiat Autumn-Winter 2024-2025 fashion show
M CLAVELIER
The Pressiat Autumn-Winter 2024-2025 fashion show
M CLAVELIER
The Pressiat Autumn-Winter 2024-2025 fashion show
M CLAVELIERShorter silhouettes follow, with faux fur minidresses, microskirts and snowflake prints, while others appear to have escaped an accident, with a tire motif, as if a car had run over them. The fabrics range from wool to silk, from vinyl to leather, coming from warehouse stocks. The color palette is muted. Some trousers came with suspenders and the dresses were laced like corsets! At the end of the show, in the snow, Julia Fox appears in a dress made entirely from recycled tires. An allegory of the race against time? Or the chaos of the world? (Laura Mateo)
The Pressiat Autumn-Winter 2024/25 fashion show.
M CLAVELIER
The Pressiat Autumn-Winter 2024/25 fashion show.
M CLAVELIER
The Pressiat Autumn-Winter 2024/25 fashion show.
M CLAVELIER- The mood: poetic trash;
- The detail: Thierry Lasry's glasses as the only accessory;
- The main look: the final test: a dress made entirely from recycled inner tubes, covered with a faux fur jacket from Mongolia, worn on stiletto heels.

The Pressiat Autumn-Winter 2024/25 fashion show.
M CLAVELIER6.30pm: Vaquera, punk in Paris
We had to go to the Maison des Métallos, in the eleventh arrondissement of Paris, to see the third (only) fashion show in France of the American duo Patric DiCaprio and Bryn Taubensee, one of the most interesting of the moment in the New York unisex genre. The set is labyrinthine, with two refined white walls in the center that recall a bourgeois home. The front window, with its elegant white curtains, serves as a photocall. The money, the moneyas the show is called to play on our consumerist obsessions, is represented in the form of banknotes printed on dresses, trousers, tops and belts, combined with ultra-modern cuts and plays on proportions.

The Vaquera Autumn-Winter 2024/25 fashion show.
Victor VIRGILE/Getty Images
The Vaquera Autumn-Winter 2024/25 fashion show.
Victor VIRGILE/Getty Images
The Vaquera Autumn-Winter 2024/25 fashion show.
Victor VIRGILE/Getty ImagesInspiration is Madonna who attends a classical ballet at the Paris Opera. The looks: monumental coats and “gross” eco-fur accessories, as Patric defined them backstage, mixed with leopard prints and Marie Antoinette skirts with volume. Models stood out from others in attendance by wearing a variety of tulle veil hats and kitschy vinyl bags. As in previous collections, there was also a wide variety of stonewashed vaquero pieces, strapless shirts, eyelet belts and the violin bag. Here and there sailor and baby doll silhouettes float in flouncy dresses and soft nylon coats. Look at Manolo Blahnik's heels and you'll think that Vaquera and Carrie Bradshaw have a lot in common. For the better. (LM)

The Vaquera Autumn-Winter 2024/25 fashion show.
Victor VIRGILE/Getty Images
The Vaquera Autumn-Winter 2024/25 fashion show.
Victor VIRGILE/Getty Images
The Vaquera Autumn-Winter 2024/25 fashion show.
Kristy Sparow/Getty Images- The mood: a punk girl at work;
- The detail: the “free the nipple” top;
- The key look: passepartout n°28: t-shirt with Mona Lisa print and Marie Antoinette volume skirt in rhinestones with black cuissardes.

The Vaquera Autumn-Winter 2024/25 fashion show.
Victor VIRGILE/Getty ImagesEveryone dreams of spending an evening in a department store. Sarah Andelman knows something about it: this brilliant and indefinable all-rounder, face of the defunct concept store Colette, is the guest star of the oldest (and most beautiful) department stores in the world. In the age of digital technology, only she could have imagined the fantastic exhibition Mise en Page, dedicated to books, bibliophilia and an extraordinary selection of unexpected objects and products (think of the new Diptyque perfume with the scent of… paper). Then, the shop was completely renovated by the grande dame of cool, in collaboration, for the occasion, with the artist Jean Julien, who installed his «Paper People» in the spectacular atrium.
To celebrate the event, a large dinner organized by the culinary studio Balbosté brought together several hundred people under these strange giants. Amuse–boucheswhich bear the name of books (2001, A Space Odyssey, Charlie and the Chocolate Factory…), they introduced an extremely imaginative menu: madeleine butter with a Proustian allusion, vegetable bookmark with its book of vegetables, alphabet pasta soup, mille-crêpes with the appearance of an old gourmand book… Until late night, guests – including the elegant Marisa Berenson – they left with a four-color collector's pen and, tucked into a bag, a copy of Le Bonheur des Dames (To the ladies' paradise) by Zola. What better way to start Fashion Week ?
- The atmosphere: fresh, literary, but not academic;
- The detail: the descent of the waiters on the escalators, like a gallery performance;
- The key look: dessert, a book to eat.
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Source: Vanity Fair

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