Paris Fashion Week, day 3: bags, a jungle and a fashion to look confidently at the present

From Courrèges, smoke, light and artificial intelligence

If anxiety is the sentiment that dominates these times, Courrèges, the house that has always had faith in the future, demonstrates how fears can be dispelled on this third day of Paris Fashion Week. It’s in the 5th arrondissements That Nicolas DiFelice has imagined a set of absolute purity, which guests discover in a cloud of smoke. As the smoke clears, silhouettes materialize, sometimes focused on a cell phone.

Translucent hoodies, hipster trousers, XXL coats with wide slits that invite sleeve play: the collection, all black, white and gray, is also embellished with medallions the size of dessert plates worn on the chest that sparkle when the light fades and dark returns. An impressive show, imagined by the artist Rémy Brière in collaboration with Matière Noire and accompanied by the voice of an artificial intelligence asking: «Is the sky blue?». (The answer is: Yes. The weather in Paris is as beautiful as ever.)

The day of the exchange: Destrée, Delvaux, Joseph Duclos

The beautiful Parisian label presented two collections at the Café Lapérouse this Wednesday. A roundup of 30 pieces that set the tone for this summer and next fall. On the one hand, a part of the summer collaboration with the artist was exhibited Ben Arpea. For Destree, the painter has created two exclusive prints (one floral and one checked) characteristic of his pictorial language. On the other, a short one preview set the tone for the autumn-winter season, with a palette that oscillates between intense green and soft yellow, sublimating the impeccable cuts of this wardrobe, tailored for respectable women, bcbg.

Not far away, the Belgian maison Delvaux presented its high-end handbags, while on the other side of the Seine, the brilliant Ramesh Nair has unveiled a new model of Joseph Duclos. The new shoulder straps, made entirely by hand, refer to theHaute Coutureand it is in the mezzanine, transformed into a laboratory, that one discovers the exhibition of the American artist’s paintings Peter Halley, which have inspired some exceptional creations, such as the matt black lizard bag, entirely hand-stitched. Almost unique pieces, presented on video to customers from all over the world.

From Paco Rabanne: a little Dalì, genius and a tribute to its founder

At the Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris, many flocked to discover the collection of the other maison which, like Courrèges, has always had faith in the future: and in the present Paco Rabanne. Given the number of wire mesh dresses, scarves and bags, it was natural to wonder if the metal detectors had been deactivated. And, incidentally, if it were possible to fly… But the passage of a unicorn – the fashion collector Michele Eliewith a spectacular horned hat – ended the debate.

Charlize and the others: the chicest stars front row at Paris Fashion Week

In the front row at Paris Fashion Week, actresses, singers, style icons sitting next to each other. Here are all of their best looks

Everyone – Amanda Lear primarily, but also Marina Foïs, Lena situations… – have come to discover this collection in which Julien Dossena questions the links maintained by Paco Rabanne (excerpts from his interviews accompany the soundtrack) and Salvador Dali. Hence the printed fabrics, derived from four emblematic paintings by the Spanish painter, which can be glimpsed between the metallic dresses, some of which reworked from archive models, and those sumptuous models imagined by Nicolas di Felice, who knows how to have fun with colours, nuances and materials like no other – without forgetting to add sneakers that are already very coveted today.

Acne Studios: the great post-apocalyptic garden

The Lycée Carnot, in the 17th arrondissement, has become home to a strange flora. In the heart of the building, under the glass roof of the 80m long hall wanted by Gustave Eiffel, it was installed a strange forest. Made up of trunks of rope and flowers that seem to come out of the film Jumanji (1995), this decoration, half hostile and half seductive, evokes a post-apocalyptic jungle where flowers of bizarre beauty grow, to be discovered with a blue curaçao cocktail in hand.

The collection is largely inspired by the 2000s: long blunt dresses open at the leg, in «devoured» materials (lace, muslin, velvet), deconstructed dresses added to fitted cuts, crop tops worn with cycling shorts, hip-laced trousers , bright yellow, bright orange and highlighter pink to liven up the rest of the much darker silhouettes, as if they were dug up from the basement. Even the accessories shouted «turn of the century», like the pale blue goggles or the ultra-flat bags to slip over the shoulder. An electrifying collection reminiscent of MTV’s heyday. A young and trendy audience, among which the musician stands out Camille Jansen, Barbie Ferreira, Ashley Yuka and a bearded man Jared Leto with a six-row necklace.

Doré, beauty according to Garance

The first French “digital girl”, who has been an expatriate in the United States for 15 years, is making her comeback. «In 2019 I decided to stop everything», explains this brunette who gives off a perfect light, comfortably installed in the apartment Goods (where its brand is distributed) on boulevard Beaumarchais. «Then, with my longtime partner, Emily Yeston, we thought about a common project: why not launch a skincare brand?». Said and done. After two years of research and development, Garance presents Doré, a range of just 4 “essential” products. This fan of less is more she is convinced: «The only thing our skin needs is to be nourished». Then, on the menu: a micellar water and a gentle cleanser to clean without attacking, a very simple but effective moisturizer and a multi-purpose conditioner. Short and well-crafted formulas, enclosed in green packaging that pulsates with energy, obviously «green». In short, substance and form.

After the Balmain fashion show, a princely dinner at the residence of the Thai ambassador

From Balmain, Olivier Rousteing sums up his collection in four sentences: the celebration of roots, to know where we are going; a quote from Pierre Balmain: «The style that resurfaces must be adapted to the present»; «If a seam isn’t good, it’s a matter of life and death» (quote from Ginette Spannier, director of Balmain from 1947 to 1976); and finally: focus on the essentials. An entire program for a majestic show that brings back the famous «Jolie Madame» from the origins of the maison, but in a third millennium version: narrower silhouette, couture accents, use of weights, pearls, iconic bows from the Fifties and hats imagined with the British star Stephen Jones. Sumptuous and abundantly applauded by a smaller audience than usual, but more than ever faithful to the creations signed by Olivier.

It is near the Muette, in the 16th arrondissement, that the Thai princess Sirivannavari receives after having presented, the day before, his collection in the rooms of the Ritz. Made with the complicity of a Thai chef based in Mulhouse, using ingredients produced by the Royal Project Foundation, the dinner brings together journalists, personalities from the fashion world, including Suzy Menkesa very chic Parisian who came as a neighbor, the calligrapher Nicolas Ouchenir accompanied by the stylist Hugo Matha and the yoga girl Melanie Huynh. What are we talking about? Of the travels of the princess, of her photographic talent, of today’s, yesterday’s and tomorrow’s fashion shows. A light atmosphere and tasty menu. Midnight is approaching: the time when the carriages turn into pumpkins. It’s time to go out, the night is dark and cold…

• Paris Fashion Week, day 1 : the «nouvelle garde»
• Paris Fashion Week Day 2: Black magic at Dior and Saint Laurent, Japanese high-tech and agender jewelry
• All the stars at the Parisian fashion shows star at the Saint Laurent fashion show