Practically a year after leaving the Mäskathe address that designed him in Rio, the prodigious chef Pedro Coronha returned to the Rio gastronomic scene. At the end of January, he opened his own restaurant — the Koral in Ipanema.
The long-awaited address now occupies the two-story mansion where a unit of the Gula Gula chain operated, on the trendy Rua Barão da Torre.
Without being tied to trends or gastronomic flags, Coronha makes Koral's menu a free territory where he brings together his culinary predilections, affective memories and influences acquired during his time in sophisticated kitchens — such as Noma, in Copenhagen, and Eleven, in Lisbon.
The menu, which is always being renewed, includes grilled lettuce salad with cavaca and Caesar sauce (R$79); meaty tuna sashimi bathed in ponzu sauce with a touch of brown sugar; katsu sando with fish tartar (R$ 39) and even the duo of fried leek and onion empanadas served with a delicious ají amarillo emulsion (R$ 38).
Another worthwhile starter is the charcoal crudo (R$69). It features fish sashimi of the day (when you visit, bull's eye) sealed with a balanced putanesca tomato sauce (with anchovies and capers) plus chive oil.
Save your appetite for the main dishes, as the list is also tempting. It includes the roasted rib presented on mini arborio rice cooked in the rib's own broth (R$ 129), the braised pork cheek bourguignon (R$ 88) and rice with a seafood base broth finished with pieces of fish and of chorizo and meaty octopus tentacles (R$ 119).
A good red available by the glass is the natural Chilean Lazy Winemaker Cabernet Franc, made by producer Echeverria in the Curicó Valley.
Koral: Rua Barão da Torre, 446, Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro / Opening hours: Tuesday and Wednesday, from 12pm to 4:30pm and 7pm to 11pm; Thursday, from 12pm to 4:30pm and 7pm to midnight; Friday and Saturday, from 12pm to midnight; Sunday, from 12pm to 7pm. Not open on Mondays.
The texts published by Insiders and Columnists do not necessarily reflect the opinion of CNN Viagem & Gastronomia.
Fabio Wright
Journalist from São Paulo who travels weekly between São Paulo and Rio, has written about gastronomy for major publications, such as Veja São Paulo, O Estado de S. Paulo and Época São Paulo. In the last ten years, he has visited eighteen countries in search of good places to eat, drink, party and enjoy bohemia. Also share your discoveries on the website and Instagram Taste and Fly.
Source: CNN Brasil
Johanna Foster is an expert opinion writer with over 7 years of experience. She has a reputation for delivering insightful and thought-provoking articles on a variety of subjects. Her work can be found on some of the top online news websites, and she is currently lending her voice to the world stock market.
