That the It is now well known that probiotics have a positive impact on the skin, and this is because our skin is inhabited by a series of microorganisms, good and bad, which if in balance perform a protective function and act as a barrier against other external pathogenic substances. This microenvironment so precious for our skin is what is called the microbiome.
Many factors can affect its balance, fromwrong diet, excessive production of UV rays, stress, pollution but also the use of too aggressive cosmetics which can alter its pH, or affect the acidity or basicity value of the skin (the skin usually has a pH of 5.5, acidic). If this precarious harmony is altered, various skin problems can arise, starting from dryness, up to acne and flaking, but also redness and hypersensitivity.
The latest scientific research has underlined the importance of nourishing the good bacteria on the skin so that the skin remains healthy and in perfect condition and this has stimulated the marketing of creams that boast the use of probiotics in the formula, to restore the skin balance.
Some clarifications, however, are a must, because not all the information offered by brands to ride the trend is clear. First of all, a distinction must be made, i Probiotics are live bacteria that can be of help to the organism, we usually talk about the intestine, and only recently has the information that they also live on the skin started to be introduced, and according in most cases, probiotics are not actually included in the cosmetics. What we find in the formulas of creams and serums are the prebioticsorganic substances that can nourish the probioticshey postbioticsthat is to say substances derived from probiotics through fermentation processes. Starting from this assumption we wanted to clarify and questioned Chiara Ponzio, Product Education Manager Rilastil, on the phenomenon of skin microbiome care, one of the most popular trends in the cosmetic world.
When we talk about probiotics in relation to cosmetic formulas, what are we really referring to?
«To date, the active ingredients used in cosmetics to maintain the well-being of the skin microbiota are: prebiotics, water-soluble fibres, carbohydrates (oligosaccharides, inulin, FOS, etc.) which are able to stimulate the growth and activity of beneficial bacteria, constituting a sort of food for the microbiota. And i postbioticsactive and concentrated bacterial metabolites generally obtained by fermentation carried out in controlled conditions. The use of these two active ingredients is preferable to that of probiotics for reasons of stabilityas they do not require maintenance and are therefore suitable for long-lasting products.”
When they say that a cosmetic formula contains live probiotics, is it true?
«Often the term probiotic in cosmetics it is used improperly or considering as part of this category not only live microorganisms but also lysates (for Treccani the lysates are produced, obtained in vitro, from the enzymatic, antibody biological lysis of protein material, ed.). In fact, the latter are not to be understood as probiotics but as para-probiotics (inanimate microorganisms or fragments of them, which are inactivated by various processes). Working with probiotics (live microorganisms) in cosmetics is problematic as any microbial growth in the cosmetic can affect the safety of the product and is incompatible with the regulatory requirements that must guarantee its stability.”
What are the microorganisms that are really good for the skin, some cosmetics to ride the probiotic trend mention lactobacillus, but is this the most effective bacterium for improving the health of the skin?
«Postbiotics obtained from Lactobacillus such as Lactobacillus Ferment or Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate are considered, together with Lactococcus Lactis lysates, valid allies of the skin microbiota».
Among the sectors of application of pre and post biotics in formulas is that of acne treatment which often requires pharmacological treatments such as retinoids, think of retinoin, isotretinoin and adapalene, which help reduce the inflammatory lesions of the disease but can present unwanted side effects such as fragility of the skin barrier, erythema, burning, itching, dryness and flaking.
The range Acnestil by Rilastil contains specific treatments for oily, combination and skin
acne-prone, specially formulated to counteract the main biological causes of acne, including hyperactivity of the sebaceous gland, hyperkeratosis of the duct and the intense pro-inflammatory action that leads to the inflammatory phase.
It’s part of the line Acnestil H-Biome by Rilastil, a cream that hydrates and nourishes skin weakened and irritated by retinoid-based drug therapy. Soothing and protecting thanks to an emollient action and restoration of the skin’s barrier function is its mission, thanks to a patented PBTECH® active, which combines prebiotics and postbiotics to ensure the homeostasis of the skin microbiota.
Without alcohol and without oils, the other product in the pensto acne line is PB Acnestil Sebum Normalizing Soothing Gel by Rilastilhas a light texture formulated with pre and postbiotics with a rebalancing action on the skin microbiota. The idea is to refresh, soothe and remove redness from the skin, as well as normalize sebaceous secretion by restoring its physiological hydration.
Even in the care of seborrheic dermatitisa chronic inflammation that affects areas rich in sebaceous glands such as the scalp and face, characterized by intense flaking, the use of pre- and post-biotics seems to have beneficial effects for the skin.
Often caused by the excessive proliferation of yeasts of the genus malassezianormally present on the skin, this condition can manifest itself with occasional itching, dandruff and greasy flaking, affecting the scalp, hairline, face and beard area in men.
Rilastil has dedicated its new product to this condition, a soothing anti-scale gel with rebalancing pre and post biotics which reduces the visible effects of seborrheic dermatitis. Its effect is to re-establish harmony in the skin microbiota, without disrupting the physiological biodiversity of the microorganisms present on the skin.
Another dermatological line dedicated to reducing the unsightly effects of seborrheic dermatitis, but also effective in cases of erythema and flaking, is Aluseb of Skinius. These are three cosmetic products to be used to reduce redness, itching, flaking and seborrhea associated with the presence of alterations typical of seborrheic dermatitis of the skin of the face, body and scalp. Their formula is based on the synergy of three ingredients, potassium alum: a salt of volcanic origin with astringent and sebostatic properties, theglycyrrhetinic acid obtained from liquorice and suitable for delicate and sensitive skin as a soothing and emollient vitamin A (retinyl palmitate) which maintains the integrity of cell membranes, stimulating the renewal of skin cells.
ALUSEB Shower Shampoo Cleanser with Alukina for the well-being of the skin, and to have strong hair and a healthy scalp.
ALUSEB Lotion with Alukina it is effective for reducing skin manifestations.
ALUSEB Cream with Alukina gives relief and well-being to the skin.
Source: Vanity Fair
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