When we talk about tiarand in these pages we often do it, we focus a lot on the history of the piece, on the design and on the stones that make certain reinforced memorabilias unique well -kept forziers. However Know the material used for the structure of the Diademi It is important because it places the jewel in a certain period, she tells us about its resistance or, at the same time, of its fragility. In addition, the metal used is linked to shinean essential feature of the masterpieces worn by queens and princesses for the great occasions ranging from Royal Wedding to state dinners.
The custom of adorning the head with a tiara dates back to ancient Greece and continued in the Roman era. This tradition, never completely abandoned, was resumed in the eighteenth century but It is during the nineteenth century that the diades reached the moment of maximum splendor. The tiare became a way to affirm their rank: therefore diamonds and precious stones served to position themselves in society. At first these jewels were made in silver and in gold in the back. The reason? Silver tended to oxidize with the risk that the hair, skin or clothes could be stained.
But this was not the only problem. Gold and silver, especially if pure, are rather fragile materials. «Since both gold and silver are relatively soft, it was necessary to use a lot of metal to fix the stones, this however made the tiar very heavy»He explained to Blauw Bloed The Martijn Akkerman jewelery expert. A noteworthy detail that could procure more than one headache: one to the lady who showed off the artifact, one to those who materially paid it since a greater disbursement of money corresponded to a greater weight.
The wife of Grand Duke Henri who will abdicate in October baptized as a favorite a diadem belonging to the mother -in -law who ended up at the center of a scandal, then returned. Let’s find out the details on the eve of the celebrations for the 25th anniversary of the kingdom of his real height
At the beginning of the twentieth century, platinum began to be useda holy hand for the growing sector. “Platinum is a harder and robust metal than gold and silver, so it served much less to keep the stones stoppedAkkerman added. Platinum, in fact, was a relatively recent discovery in the field of precious metals even if it was already known in ancient Egypt. In the second half of the 1700, in Colombia, the Spaniard Don Antonio De Ulloa realized this new material considered a Serie B silver (platform In Spanish it means “silver”).
The advantages in the goldsmith’s field emerged after about a century of progress on the processing of the metal, a series of procedures that made the most versatile platinum of gold. The French jeweler Eugène Fontenay reported to the Paris Universal Exhibition in 1855 because he brought a particularly elaborate diadem, partly made in platinum. At that moment the “new” metal was launched on the market. The advantages that were not only resistance and lightness immediately emerged but also the ability to enhance the light of diamonds.
Chaumet He began to use platinum at the end of the 19th century especially for the tiar because he allowed to make more refined frames and Cartier At the beginning of the twentieth century it was the maison that consolidated its success in the wake of the movement Art nouveau: The design was important to allow stones to shine even more. Until the rooms of the buildings were illuminated by the light of the candles, one did not realize how much the diamonds could shine but with the advent of electric light the brightness of the jewelry could certainly not be neglected.
Finally, the platinum imposed itself from the 1920s as it is clearly visible on the tiar of the period Art Déco. To give an example we can mention The diamond band tiara belonged to Queen Mary worn by Meghan Markle on his wedding day. According to the historian Akkerman, Queen Elizabeth had to deal with the fragility of a diadem very dear to her.
The so -called Tiara Vladimirmade of gold and silver for the Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna in 1874, arrived in the chest of Queen Mary through an auction since the piece had been put on sale after several vicissitudes followed by the Russian revolution of 1917. The piece was inherited from Queen Elizabeth who, after so many years, in 1988 sent La Tiara to replace the old frame with a more resistant and practical in platinum.
Not of all the tiare owned by the various royals are known the secrets and if the precious stones are evident, more difficult to trace the information related to the structure. The period in which a diadem and the game of light that manages to create were made can suggest the material used, always assuming that it is gold, silver and platinum.
Among the treasures of the Swedish royal family, however, there are a couple of surprising memorabilia. To make the their kind unique Napoleonic Cut-Steel Tiara and the Swedish cut Steel Bandeau Tiara It is the material used, it would be to say the steel. In this case, the difference is visible to the naked eye and the metal suggests a jump back in time: we are in the Napoleonic era, the one in which the Bernadotte dynasty originated, the house that sits on the throne of the Scandinavian country.
As Queen Silvia, Victoria of Sweden or Princess Sofia teach us, in a banquet or on a special occasion You can show off a piece of history: There are not only gold or diamonds to tell the prestige of a reigning house.
Sofia of Sweden and the Tiara who managed to multiply by seven
The princess diadem is considered the most versatile in Europe because in less than ten years it has been presented in several variants and the number is destined to grow. It is a unicum: we reveal the details on the occasion of the 40th birthday of Reale
Source: Vanity Fair
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