Renowned chefs defend the use of gold in gastronomy and explain the sophistication of the element

In the art of gastronomy, (almost) anything goes to transform the act of eating into a pleasurable experience. But in addition to the flavor and aromas, the look is also impressive and can make us “eat with our eyes” even before the first bite.

And if there’s one element that fascinates us, it’s the gold that, yes, can go into the recipes. Renowned chefs and experts who spoke with CNN Travel & Gastronomy advocate the use of gold as a way to enhance the beauty of a dish and even as a celebration.

But the option to highlight a recipe with the element may sound extravagant to laypeople. Last Sunday (4), players from the Brazilian national team ate gold-plated meat at a restaurant in doha to take advantage of the slack in the middle of Qatar World Cup.

The ostentation of the moment drew criticism, including from Father Júlio Lancellotti, who classified the images of athletes at the banquet as cause of “embarrassment”🇧🇷 Former striker Ronaldo, who was with the players, shot at the critics🇧🇷

“If you ate the gold-plated meat, that’s the guy’s problem,” he said.

The place where the players tasted the delicacy is the luxury steakhouse Nusr-Et by Turkish chef Salt Bae , famous for serving gold-plated baked goods. The estimated value of the dish with the element, a prime-rib cut consumed by athletes, is close to R$ 10,000.

But the use of gold is not all that extravagant. The first evidence of its food use dates back to Egypt in the second millennium BC.

The ancient Egyptians believed it was a way to get closer to their deities. The skin of the gods depicted in his frescoes was golden; the pharaohs’ tombs and sarcophagi were decorated with gold; and the element was eaten as sacred food to please the gods.

In Europe, the use of edible gold arrived in the Middle Ages and Japan has used the precious metal in sake bottles and special dishes for centuries.

the award winning chef Luiz Filipe Souza which runs one of the 100 best restaurants in the world, the São Paulo Evvai, 67th place on the list of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, recalls that, in 1981, Gualtiero Marchesi one of the greatest Italian chefs in history, precursor of nouvelle cuisine in the country, he used gold leaf for the first time in his Allo zaferano risotto – until then, gold had not been used in this way in cooking.

“The dish is one of the best known to date for its disruptive role in breaking paradigms and elevating gastronomy even further to a state of art. From that line the gold leaf represents many things. Gold represents wealth, luxury, nobility as well as achievements, ascension and awards. The fact of associating it with food can be part of adding these attributes to food”, says the chef, who uses the element on special occasions in his restaurant.

“I don’t eat gold every day, but to propose disruptive experiences, to provoke sensations beyond the meal. It’s a trick I use in the restaurant when there’s a context for it. Without hypocrisy, there is a certain luxury and superficiality when we elevate gastronomy beyond the simple fact of eating. Food alone, unfortunately, is already a luxury in the country we live in, there is nothing to disagree with that. But, using gold or not in a gastronomic experience is just one more among many other luxuries that we add to food”, says Luiz Filipe.

the chef Renzo Garibaldi by the award-winning Peruvian Bone with a branch in São Paulo since October, one of the main names in Peru when it comes to meat, also emphasizes that the gold in food is not a condiment, since it has no flavor.

“It’s just a visual appeal. On the grill, the flavor of the meat does not change, nor the texture. But like many things in the kitchen, aesthetics are important. Food first enters through the eyes and then through the mouth”, explains the chef.

The feast that the players served themselves in Doha was defended by the chefs, who remember that gold is a achievement celebration element.

“I cannot understand how it could have bothered so much as to generate criticism. As if we didn’t agree that players, the vast majority of whom come from very humble backgrounds, today, being in a different reality, are satisfied with a gold-plated meal”, says Luiz Filipe.

“Sounds like depriving a person of their rights to enjoy their achievements. Whether the meat was all that or not I don’t know, as I didn’t taste it. But in fact there is too much to criticize the players who spent what they earn appreciating such meat”, he adds.

For Garibaldi, the athletes were in a moment of celebration, in which gold brings a special touch to these occasions.

“The use of gold in the event that the selection ate, which is a moment of celebration, I thought was fair and legal, nothing wrong. It is a moment that you want to complement with something special”, says the Peruvian chef. He further explains that the use of the element in cooking in a way of ostentation may depend on the quantity.

“It depends on the moment and the amount, a little bit of everything. Wearing a thin gold chain is chic, whereas wearing one that weighs a kilo is wasteful. There’s nothing wrong with the touch of gold in food. It’s cool – especially because it’s the national team, because they’re playing in the World Cup, the golden World Cup”, highlighted Garibaldi.

Expensive or cheap?

the chef from Minas Gerais Mario Portella an important specialist in meat in Brazil, says that using gold in dishes is not that expensive and that, in the old days, gold leaves made drinks like sparkling wine shine.

“In truth, [o uso] It’s been around for a thousand years, it’s not that expensive. Sparkling wines and liqueurs came with little gold leaves inside so that when we turn the leaves over they move inside the drink. I remember seeing this in childhood. It’s nothing from another world. It’s more for decoration. Seasoning changes the flavor and texture of the meat, gold does not”, alleges the chef, who says that the preparation that the owner of the restaurant where the selection ate the roast with gold is another scenic resource.

Regarding the preparation, there’s nothing much, it’s more for the gringo to see.

Mario Portella

The prices of powdered gold, sheets and even spray are varied. A supplier of the element based in Italy and supplies Brazilian chefs, for example, sells boxes with five gold leaves measuring 50 cm by 50 cm for 15.90 euros, the equivalent of R$86.