Roberta Ceretto, the lady of wine: “We feel the moral obligation to improve: sustainability is also human, workers in agriculture must be protected”

The surname is of those that wine enthusiasts know all over the world: Ceretto is a winery based In San Cassiano di Alba, founded in 1937 and among the most famous in Italy, beyond the estates (four for a total surface of 200 Enttari that produce about one million bottles per year) and wines that are exported to twenty countries. Well -known Bland – “revolutionary” white in a territory dedicated until 1985 to red wines – to refined Barolo DOCG and Barbaresco DOCG.

Roberta Ceretto He is president and responsible for the communication of the family business but above all he has a different vision from the classic “lord of wine”, however capable and of long experience, who meet in Italy. Maybe because he didn’t want to deal with it. «When I studied foreign languages ​​at the University, I thought I was teaching in those classrooms after the degree I took. I repeated that Dad Bruno and Uncle Marcello They left a strong mark with their work, continuing in an extraordinary way that of my grandfather Riccardo, producer without a hectare of land. What could I have done for my family that they hadn’t already done them? ” tells.

A family business

Evidently Bacchus, god of wine, had already traced a different path. «My father sponsored an exhibition of artists David Tremlett And Sol Lewitt which then in 1999 renovated the Barolo chapelin the Brunette vineyard of La Morra. “Tell us you who know English,” he said. I stayed all summer with them: they filled me with questions about the cellar and on the wine, I didn’t know how to answer. So I inquired at the work of my father and my uncle. And I discovered it was fascinating, “he recalls. In one fell swoop, love for wine, art, design and all ideas that bring something to the territory was born. Keeping your feet on the ground. “We remain a family business that today is led by the third generation. My brother Federico He is the CEO, my cousin Alexander It is an extraordinary winemaker who dedicates himself to organic and biodynamic: the decisive turning point in 2010 is due to him when all the vineyards were converted. My cousin Lisa deals with the accounts, “he explains.

The bet of the Monsignor

In addition to the commitment with the family business, Roberta Ceretto is engaged with Giuseppe Blenginihusband and architect, in the winery Monsignorlocated in Vicoforte in the heart of the Alta Langa, for a century specialized in Dogliani DOCG. In 2014 they decided to bet on the ‘bubbles’ and plant the first vineyards of Pinot Nero and Chardonnay. They took us: theAlta Langa Monsignore He is a classic Mr. Mister. But don’t call her ‘Wine woman’. «We are in 2025, I think we have to go beyond the definition and look at the merit. When I faced this activity, the female presence was decidedly minority. Very few producers, very few sommeliers. Now there is a nourished female presence. Very good and very prepared women and girls who work in the vineyard, manage cellars, produce, sell, recommend wines ».

The spectacular cellar of Tenuta Monsordo Bernardina, the main seat of the ceretto

“The obligation to improve”

The ceretto are doing a good job, exploiting what is built (“dad and uncle say that mortgages are paid, the land is ours: we could even make mistakes but we feel the moral obligation to improve, to bring our wines into the best restaurants, to work in a sustainable way” underlines), experimenting in the vineyards and having fun, especially in the artistic field. Are friends of Francesco Clemente who frescoed the pink room of the Piazza Duomo restaurant o Valerio Berruti, author oftheThe work at the Bricco Rocche winery. Roberta, in particular, has a real passion for the embellishment of the places where she was born. He made it draw The berry to Blengini: a transparent dome that dominates the vineyards of the Monsordo Bernardina estateif we want the mother house of the empire. And always in Bricco Rocche he wanted to build the cube, imposing and transparent structure that has become one of the symbols of the territory.

The ber, the permanent installation that dominates the Tenuta vineyards Monsordo Bernardina

Human sustainability

Assuming respect for theThe environment that is the real heritage for those who produce winesustainability for ceretto has always been human. «We are and live the cellar as a family and therefore We try to be very attentive to our 200 collaborators because without them we could not achieve all the goals we set ourselves. For years, for example, of the many farmhouses purchased together with vineyards we have chosen to renovate some of them and give home to the many foreigners. We are all well aware that Agriculture in our country is carried out by hundreds of people coming from the most distant places And therefore essential to find a place to make them live. We restructure of the farmhouses that would be abandoned and they live there, often in beautiful places »says Mrs. Ceretto. Which has only one true concern: «Despite our commitment, the problem of the lack of expert workers in the countryside is becoming alarming. And not only for us ».

Enrico Crippa, the chef of the saddlellato piazza Duomo of the Ceretto family

“Crippa is fantastic”

Ceretto does not only mean wine. In the group there are a micro -tales of pastry, an expression of Recalanche (project dedicated to the hazelnut “Tonda Gentile del Piemonte”), The Piola (a middle ground between the tavern and the restaurant, modern piedmont in the dishes) and the aforementioned Piazza Duomo who conquered the three Michelin stars – never happened in Langa – in 2012 and has never lost them anymore. «In 2003, he said to Enrico Crippa who wanted to get to this result. He engaged in an incredible way and he succeeded: the fantastic thing is that he does not hear himself despite the three stars, he always thinks about the service that will come later ». The restaurant also earned the green star – thanks above all to biological crops with over 400 varieties of plants that feed the pantry – and has been part of the The world’s 50 best restorents. We launch ourselves in a prediction (and hope): the 39th place of the 2024 ranking will improve both because the 2025 edition will take place on June 19 in Turin (and historically those who play at home salt in the standings) and because one of the menus of chef Brianza is extraordinary. Is called “Art Bites “ And it is a series of gifts made during the dinners cooked for the guest artists of Piazza Duomo (from Marina Abramovic to Kiki Smith, from Anselm Kiefer to Patti Smith) and by some works that have left a mark in his memory.

Gambero Gaudì, one of the dishes dedicated from Crippa to contemporary art

Wine and the end dining

A masterpiece of technique and fantasy, where not a few dishes also emerges the imprint that Gualtiero Marchesi – His first mentor – he left in Crippa. For the record, the route consists of four courses and is available only for lunch on Wednesday, Thursday and Friday from late January to September. He smiles that Roberta Ceretto is engaged in two sectors, partly connected to each other, under attack by the media such as the wine and the fine dining. “Alcohol is considered harmful to health and a source of danger for those who guide: in reality, producers are more worried about the Russian mountains due to the duties and the international situation. If anything, it is correct to say that there is alcohol and alcohol: you don’t have to drink too much and bad. On this I am sure but we do not create a negative attitude towards a product symbol of Made in Italy. How the penalties have changed for those who are behind the wheel but not the limits but this has gone to trace ». supports. What about high cuisine? “It’s not for everyone. A place like Piazza Duomo requires very high costs For the raw material and the staff, with dozens of collaborators between room and kitchen, which must be rightly paid well. If you do not do it, then that concept of sustainability that is always requested by the media falls but it is clear that everything falls on the customer’s account ».

In front of the famous Barolo chapel, signed by David Tremlett and Sol Lewitt.

“We don’t have to be Disneyland”

Carlin Petrinithe Slow Food and Langarolo DOC guru, a few months ago it was not tender with the great families of the wine. He said that the Langhe have become an exclusive place, with the price of the land with the stars that attracts only great investors and a wealth that is ruining the cohesion of local communities. What do you think? «Our success coincides with that of our territory to which Slow Food has contributed in an extraordinary way. We are not benefactors, but not even insensitive speculators As someone would like to believe and if today all the languages ​​of the world are heard between Langhe and Roero, a little merit is ours too. I don’t think we can go back, everything evolves but you can improve the sense of community and sharing the public good: this yes. It is time to preserve what the Langa has made unique: We cannot become Disneyland, without identityas tourists would like it, “concludes Roberta Ceretto. Langa’s daughter, who in our opinion will never betray his land.