This article is published in number 10 of Vanity Fair on newsstands until March 10, 2021
It is one of the most recurring dreams: the sun that draws brushstrokes of light on the pastel colors of the houses, the view of the blue sea, the scent of salt that mixes with the aroma of basil and the ever stronger desire to being able to dine in a beautiful place that smells of summer and freedom. Maybe with a traditional Ligurian dish prepared by Roberto Villa, chef of the Belmond Hotel Splendido Mare, on the square of Portofino, a refined inn overlooking the most famous marina in the world, which will reopen completely renovated on April 16th.
In the meantime, we just have to imagine, trying to make those special events that have marked our life more pleasant. Like the Festival of Sanremo scheduled from 2 to 6 March, in its 71st edition: one of those occasions when it is customary to gladly gather at home, in front of the TV and a delicious dinner, to comment on the songs in the race. So, to be able to travel at least with your thoughts, why not dedicate this “special edition” to Ligurian cuisine? We asked for advice and recipes for dishes that were not too complex, but suitable for the occasion, for chefs and restaurant owners on the Riviera di Levante and Ponente. Starting right from Sanremo (In the photo gallery, proposals and recipes).
Il Ciuppin: Not the usual soup
For the debut evening, where 13 of the 26 Champions competing will perform, you can start by choosing from strong fish-based dishes, such as Brandacujun (cod and potatoes), Buridda, chunky fish soup, and Ciuppin , always fish soup but pureed, typical of western Liguria, that the Sanremo restaurant Paolo & Barbara, a Michelin star since 1990 and one of the best known in the city (very popular with artists), offers in its version with cooked fillets and croutons to be served with aioli, garlic-flavored mayonnaise with a Provençal influence. The recipe based on various fish to be cooked with sautéed, extra virgin olive oil, garlic, parsley and tomatoes, then reduced to cream, is not quick to prepare but lends itself to a “TV dinner” because it can be made in advance and then heated quickly.
The variations of basil
Whether it is to dress trenette, trofie, linguine, but also gnocchi or lasagnette, pesto, the symbol of Genoa in the world, to be prepared at home or purchased ready-made (to be chosen carefully however) is ideal for listening to the songs of the second group of Champions who will perform on Wednesday evening in the best Ligurian mood. Everyone likes pesto and solves many dinners: it can also be used to flavor pizzas, bruschetta, savory pies. Chestnut picagge with mortar pesto, Aveto prescinseua, white Quarantina potatoes and green beans, or chestnut pasta with pesto and fresh and sour cheese, is the proposal of Jokes, a famous trattoria in Ne, in the Genoese hinterland, specializing in traditional peasant dishes from Eastern Liguria such as Prebugiun di Ne (the name of the town), made of boiled potatoes and black cabbage and wild herbs seasoned with olive oil and garlic, served with raw Zerli red onion… (we take advantage of the forced isolation to eat them without compromising social life).
Author moments
And then there is the Cover evening, that of Thursday, with the 26 Champions who interpret songs taken from the repertoire of the Italian author’s song. So why not combine iconic recipes that make everyone agree even at the table? As the green cake, with trumpet courgettes from Albenga, Sardenaira from Sanremo, soft focaccia topped with tomato, anchovies, olives, capers, oregano and garlic, and the irresistible, historic Recco focaccia with Manuelina cheese: flour, Ligurian extra virgin olive oil, salt and crescenza. And for those who do not have to excel in technique and manual skills, luckily there is the Focaccia with Manuelina Home Edition cheese: just regenerate it in the oven.
Heart of pesto
For fans of filled pasta, it is a must a plate of pansotti with walnut sauce, the “pot-bellied” stuffed with herbs such as chard, borage, burnet, rapunzel. Or, there is an alternative: Tortelli stuffed with pesto, creamy potatoes and green beansi, a variant of the classic pesto pasta with potatoes and green beans, proposed by Marco Visciola, chef of Marin, Ristoro del Porto Antico, Eataly Genova’s fine dining restaurant. The egg pasta contains the pesto, the potatoes are the creamy part, the raw green beans the crunchy note. The PDO Genoese Basil is also essential to release a delicate flavor with unique characteristics.
Red shrimp & carpet
A refined version of the Cappon Magro, another great classic of Ligurian cuisine – mixed vegetables and steamed fish, combined with a green parsley sauce -, is the proposal for the final evening of the Festival of Roberto Rollino, chef of the Mood La Femme restaurant, in San Bartolomeo al Mare (Imperia), one of the best clubs in Liguria, frequented by artists and record companies during the Festival period. Alongside, or alternatively, a triumph of crustaceans, the famous Sanremo red shrimps, another product of great value, exclusive to the waters of the City of Flowers. To be tasted raw, or lightly seared, they can be seasoned with another top ingredient of the area, Ligurian extra virgin olive oil, emulsified with lemon juice, salt, a few leaves of basil in strips and small pieces of Taggiasca olives. Dishes worthy of a grand finale.
Greetings and kisses
The sweet “moment” is guaranteed by Kisses of Sanremo, chocolate biscuits with cream filling, a local specialty, better if prepared according to an ancient recipe handed down for generations such as those produced in the laboratory of Pastry Festival Cafe since 1957, made with hazelnuts, almonds, sugar, egg white, cocoa, honey, cream and bitter chocolate. They are perfect from the first to the last evening and also in the following days: once tasted you can no longer stop eating them. Perhaps because, as Schulz’s wise and greedy Snoopy said: «Nobody can sleep if a bunch of chocolate chip cookies sings all night…». It will be the Festival effect.
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Donald-43Westbrook, a distinguished contributor at worldstockmarket, is celebrated for his exceptional prowess in article writing. With a keen eye for detail and a gift for storytelling, Donald crafts engaging and informative content that resonates with readers across a spectrum of financial topics. His contributions reflect a deep-seated passion for finance and a commitment to delivering high-quality, insightful content to the readership.
