Settecento Style: from vintage corsets to contemporary fashion

An exhibition with a double soul that will allow you to take a journey through time, starting from over 300 years ago to reach the present day. This is precisely the goal of EIGHTEENTH CENTURY!, the exhibition inaugurated in Milan in Palazzo Morando Museum: allowing the viewer to go through the History of Costume to better understand the richness of the past and the contaminations of the present.

A path, curated by Enrica Morini and Margherita Rosina with the coordination of the conservator Ilaria De Palma, which crosses centuries of fashion. The perfect opportunity to exhibit, for the first time exclusively, three pieces of the eighteenth century just donated byAMICHÆ association, which has long been committed to supporting the Palazzo Morando Museum and the Museum of the Risorgimento.

But let’s start from the beginning, or rather from the absolute protagonists of this exhibition: the clothes found, as rarely happens, in perfect condition. They belonged to an ancient family of Castiglione delle Stiviere who handed them down and treated them with extreme care for over 3 centuries. It’s about a french dress crafted in green cannelée silk brocade with a floral motif (on the cover, real star of the exhibition), a suit consisting of a full skirt and amaranth brocade taffeta bodice with lace, flower and leaf motifs and a purplish red textured cannelée silk bustier .

A truly unique opportunity for fans of the history of costume to see live fashion creations so well preserved and full of original details. But not only that, because the path continues and from the past, as we mentioned before, it reaches the present day.

Many great designers, in fact, have opened their archives and have lent the creations inspired by the eighteenth-century style they have created over the years. From Versace to Dolce & Gabbana, from Max Mara to the Gianfranco Ferré Foundation up to Vivienne Westwood. The result? The proof that a certain taste belonging to that century managed to overcome the barriers of time, allowing certain suggestions to emerge in fashion and fabrics in subsequent eras.

But, exactly, what do we find from the eighteenth century in the clothes of our designers?
The bodices, without a doubt, symbols of femininity. The narrow waist, squeezed to the limit by lace-up bustiers, but also the floral embroideries, certain fabrics and patterns typical of that century.

The Canvas of Jouy is an example. The fabrics depicting rural and bucolic scenes, typical of the eighteenth century, were initially used for the furnishings but over the last few years they have often been chosen by stylists who like to try their hand at these prints also for their prêt-à-porter clothes and accessories. .

After visiting the rooms of the Palace, we had a chat with Laura Colnaghi Calissoni, President of the Amichae association he was born in Carvico Group, which also includes textile companies Eurowersey, supporter of the exhibition. Together with us Claudio Salsi, director of the Soprintendenza Castello, Archaeological Museums and Historical Museums of the Municipality of Milan who told us more about how this exhibition was born.

“These three very rare dresses, shown for the first time here, were intercepted by two curators, experts in costumes and ancient fabrics, just in time – Laura Colnaghi Calissoni tells us – risked, in fact, to take the road abroad. Thanks to the Amichae association we were able to stop them. We bought them and then donated them to the Museum ».

“The exhibition – Claudio Salsi explains to us – it was made possible thanks to the help of many: from the Amichae association that gave us these masterpieces, to those who allowed us to make the investment with which we bought the museum display cases in which they are exhibited (and perfectly preserved) . And then, again the stylists of the quadrilateral, who have opened their archives for us. In short, all this is the result of great synergies, of which we are very proud ».

The exhibition EIGHTEENTH CENTURY!, with free admission, it will continue at Palazzo Morando until the end of May 2022, we recommend that you go and visit it, it is an excellent opportunity to immerse yourself in the history and customs of the past and present. Good vision!

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