There Skin Longevity It does not include commercial interventions, perhaps very expensive, but – on the contrary – is based on daily attention to be calibrated according to your age. And this route Change skin. The secrets of regeneration and skin longevity for natural beauty (Sperling & Kupfer, 208 pages, 18.90 euros, in bookstores from 13 May) by Antonino Di PietroFather of plastic-rigenrative dermatology and scientific director of the Dermoclinic Vita Cutis Institute of Milan. “This book starts from afar,” he says. «For years, in fact, I try to explain that it is correct and wise to help the skin stay young, because this helps us to live better. But as a dermatologist, I suffer when I see the idea of transformation, if not deformation, of the faces exalted. The goal should be that of help your skin improve elasticity, compactness, hydration, not the impossible one to bring it back to twenty yearswhen after smile, it takes half a second because the face is again, perfectly relaxed. Well: a second and a half is needed to Quaranta; in fifty two seconds; to sixty three … ». And here is what should be the goal: “If at forty years, fifty or sixties I can make sure that – when I stop talking or smiling – my skin relaxes a second less, I convey the image of a younger face. But I remain myself, with my face ». To succeed, however, it is necessary to be constancy, adopting some, precise daily rules. Here’s what it is.
The water temperature
«When you wake up in the morning and wash your face, the water temperature can already make the difference. In fact, our skin is sprayed by the blood vessels, which bring nourishment and oxygen. They are like elastic tubes that dilate and narrow according to the needs, only that over time they begin to yield. This is why on the face, with age, small signs such as couperose also begin to appear, they are thin who branched out on the sides of the nose, widening on the cheeks. They are the first signs of biological aging ». Returning to the water: “Wash your face first with the warm one and then fresher about 7 or 8 degrees – not frozen – is equivalent to a gymnastics for the blood vessels: the first relaxes, promotes circulation; The second instead closes the capillaries, which then reopen immediately afterwards, activating a sort of vascular exercise. All this stimulates elasticity, improves circulation, makes the skin more toned ».
The right cleansing
“Often we speak of” delicate detergent “, without explaining what it is in practice”, continues Antonino Di Pietro. «Well, it means use little product and choosing poor in surfactants, which therefore produces little foam. Otherwise, there is a risk of removing that lipid film that naturally protects the skin in excess ». In case, cleansing milk is a good option, always remembering, however, “to rinse it perfectly”. With the methods said above.
Effective creams
«Today there are truly effective creams, with active ingredients that really stimulate the production of new collagen and hyaluronic acid. There is A substance, in particular, which is revolutionizing the sector: it is called FIPPIDINA And it is the union of two components: the phospholipids, which are similar to the bricks of the cell membranes of the skin, manage to penetrate other substances with them; Glucosamine, on the other hand, is the precursor of hyaluronic acid. And here is innovation. Because hyaluronic acid has a huge molecule, too large to cross the skin. It would be like wanting to pass a truck from the lock hole: impossible. But cosmetic research has found a brilliant solution: to disassemble the truck. Take hyaluronic acid and break it into its bricks – glucosamine precisely – and then transport them inside the skin using phospholipids. Once inside, those fragments recompose. In practice, the truck comes back into the garage. This was a paradigm change. Fospidine has marked a new era, because it really allows the active ingredients to arrive in depth, where they need». It is not a commercial name, but an active ingredient, so just look for it on the label.
Calibrated pressure
«In addition to the cream itself, it is also essential as it is applied because it is not enough to spread it quickly on the face. On the contrary, It is very useful to exercise light pressures with well -stretched fingers, as if you want to make it penetrate more deeply. It starts from the central area and proceed outdoors – to the nose towards the cheeks, then down, to the base of the neck. Thus, in fact, microcirculation is helping. And since we also age because the blood stagnates, slows down – especially in the dilated capillaries – this gesture helps to reactivate the flow. New, oxygenated blood arrives, and the poorest one is eliminated faster ».
Muscle exercises
After that, “the face is not only made of skin, but also of fat and muscles. And the muscle in the long run is the victim of the force of gravity: this is why, over the years, the cheeks begin to slide down “. Contrast the so -called Bulldog effect However, it is possible: “Good facial gymnastics can really make a difference, as well as face yogathanks to small exercises, controlled movements, aware expressions ».
Protect yourself from the sun …
«It is true, an excessive exposure can accelerate aging and even penetrate the cell DNA, altering it. But “always protect yourself”, every day of the year and any time, makes no sense. Also because solar is not a moisturizing cream, so it must be used intelligently. To say: «If you live in the open air, of course it is fundamental. But if you work eight hours in the office it can even be counterproductive ».
… and from the sources of heat
As he puts on the dictat on UVA filters, «Instead, no one ever speaks enough of the harmful effects of direct heat, which dilates the blood vessels Up to swell them as balloons. Here then the blood stagnates, the circulation slows down, and the skin is affected – becomes off, fragile, less toned ». What do you pay attention to? «By car, better not to point the hot air of the air conditioner on the face. At home, we avoid sitting in front of the radiator, stoves or bright fireplace. And above all: in the summer, at the sea, it is not necessary to delude yourself that once the sun cream is applied we can rest assured: it protects from ultraviolet rays, but not from infrared that are thermal, that is, pure heat ». Solution: «Often refresh yourself with fresh water to spray with a nebulizer».
Eating
In his new book, Antonino Di Pietro dedicates a rich chapter to the theme of nutrition – even calibrating it on the different age groups. The cardinal principle, validated by scientific research, remains the very healthy Mediterranean diet based on whole grains, vegetables, fruits, seeds, healthy fats and noble proteins. In an ideal distribution that he summarizes: “To compose a complete and balanced meal, copy the” healthy dish “of Harvard: half is occupied by cooked or raw fruit and vegetables, a quarter is intended for protein sources, and the last quarter to carbohydrates. In contrast to our habits, the outline should become the main flow ».
Targeted additions
Also the supplements play a key role-the health of the skin. “Word of dermatologist with forty years of experience: when they are well chosen and dosed, they can really make the difference”. But they must be targeted. “A generic supplement, with a little bit of everything, often serves nothing. It is different if you work with 2 or 3 specific active ingredients, in serious concentrations. Then yes, you can act deeply helping the skin to regenerate, to keep it healthy, to slow down aging. This is what a good dermatologist, with the right experience, can do: understand what the single person needs, and build a tailor -made plan ».
Effective treatments
If you want a boost of youth, today There are several treatments that – without distorting features – give excellent results. “The skin is made up of an external layer, the epidermis thick about a millimeter, under which the dermis is. The most evident damage, those caused by light, focus right there, in that first millimeter. And it is therefore there that we must intervene, helping the cells to regenerate ». With the picotage, for example, developed by Di Pietro himself several years ago. «It consists in injecting very small quantities of natural hyaluronic acid, not fillers, not filled, to a millimeter of depth. Just where the cells are more damaged. Hyaluronic acid is one of the most effective substances to regenerate, and when we introduce it where you need, the cells start to work again, producing more collagen and elastin ». Result: «More toned, more elastic skin, which reacts better, which is brought faster when she smiles, which maintains natural youth. And he does it without distorting, without inflating, without changing the connotations. The beauty is that at that depth there are still no capillaries of a certain caliber, therefore the treatment – if well performed – leaves no signs, does not cause hematomas. It is not even painful, because nerve endings are not touched. A type of approach that today, fortunately, is spreading more and more ».
Source: Vanity Fair
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