With the brand's return to the track Cheap Monday announced for next summer after closing in 2018, a bittersweet ghost resurfaces in our time: the vacuum-effect skinny jeans.
One statement of youth anti-establishmentwhich saw its own from the beginning of 2000 to the first half of the 1910s Golden Age on our high school legs, following, stride after stride, the generational discomfort of the indie rock hangover for Europe. And precisely today, when faced with the regency of post-pandemic silhouettes increasingly baggy they thought they were buried, here goes the wheel. But the real question is: are we really ready?
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To look at theirs fashion-legacy, the association between skinny jeans, rebellion and the music scene comes from a common thread well woven into the counterculture. Of which we find a proto-manifestation in the shocking first ones put rock'n'roll of Elvis Presley, in the same period in which the disciples of Jack Kerouac, aka the hipsters ante litteram, they roamed America in skintight denim and flannel shirts. Yes, just like at the Arci clubs, but without the Vans. In addition to boasting a endorsement immense among the beautiful and damned on the big screen, from James Dean to Brigitte Bardot.
James Dean.
Archive Photos/Getty ImagesAgainst the backdrop of this lifestyle subversive and messy, skinny jeans could only find support in the punk spiritdecorated by touch do-it-yourself with dramatic pins, patches and tears. Wrapping up cult characters like Sid Vicious and Siouxsie Sioux from the waist down and dragging themselves into post-punk, pop-punk, new wave, emo, etc., etc. drifts. To then reach the pinnacle ofhype at the gates of the new millennium in the Indie Rock scene in all its forms.

Sid Vicious.
Mirrorpix/Getty ImagesFirst of all, among the unofficial Ambassadors we find the triad of charm scruffy: Pete Doherty and his The Libertines, Julian Casablancas with The Strokes and Alex Turner at the helm of Arctic Monkeys. Which respectively poetically sublimate the Skinnies by showing off trilby hats, leather biker jackets, sailor T-shirts, while riding the wave of thirsty tabloids, rankings, addictions and iconic love stories. In short, post-contemporary bohemians within reach crush.

Kate Moss and Pete Doherty, 2005.
Paul UnderhillGreat accomplices to the hegemony of skinny jeans are It-girls like Kate Moss and Alexa Chung. Hanging out on the catwalks as much as the parterre of the Glastonbury Festival, they elevate them into the more purely fashion with combinations ranging from the legendary Hunters to ballerinas à la Amy Winehouse, up to the proposals glam with pumps and stiletto heels. From the references-obsessions, which also resonate widely on screens teen through emblematic TV series such as Skins (2007) and the memorable looks of Effy Stonem and Michelle Richardson.

Alexa Chung, 2012.
Tim P. Whitby/Getty ImagesAt the same time in context luxury he arrives Hedi Slimanewhich makes it a true manifesto, from Saint Laurent and Dior Homme as today from Celineproclaiming himself the champion ofindie-coolness on the catwalk, immediately synonymous with silhouette androgynous and very thin. Even going as far as advertising projects such as Saint Laurent Music Project in 2013, involving names like Kim Gordon and Jake Bugg. And voilà nIt's not just the new hipsters, but everyone wants to wear skinny jeans: the market mainstream adapts with Cheap Monday (initially second hand then under H&M) and our body as well.

Dior Homme spring/summer 2007.
Fairchild Archive/Getty Images
Saint Laurent autumn/winter 2013.
Chris Moore/Catwalking/Getty Images
Celine autumn/winter 2023.
WWD/Getty ImagesNow, putting Celine's extremisms aside, the air of a flashback there is a lack of choice between brands such as Undercover, Zimmermann and Mugler, which offers them again with zips and spiral panels with a futuristic flavour. Therefore, immersed in the current revival 2000it is natural to ask whether this renewed Chaep Monday, openly inspired by «post punk & pop, underground music & art, nepo babies and true idols“, will be the decisive nostalgic push for a comeback hatched quietly.

Ruby O. Fee at the Mugler X HM collection launch in Berlin, 2023.
Franziska Krug/Getty ImagesBecause although the cyclical nature of fashion is unstoppable, they seem to be the only ones missing. A question of rejection or time? We remember the fiery one complaints in that of TikTok, or even before that, Karl Lagerfeld's much talked about diet to be able to wear Dior by Slimane. It is undeniable that theitem consecrated to glory byindie sleaze today we face demonization and the fear of being re-shaped by a pair of jeans. But, paradoxically, the desire to enhance with any second skin body shape Doesn't that already sound familiar? And perhaps, who knows, far from tastes and from warning toxic inclinations, among the spirals of re-signification, skinny jeans will return to our wardrobes thanks to a new shameless point de vue. With attached playlist.

Kate Moss, 2020.
NurPhoto/Getty Images
Albert Hammond Jr. and Agyness Deyn, 2008.
James Devaney
Alex Turner, 2011.
NBC
Alexa Chung, 2008.
Fred Duval
Amy Winehouse, 2008.
Niki Nikolova
Lana Del Rey, 2012.
Toby Canham/Getty Images
Keira Knightley, 2003.
Dave Benett/Getty Images
Joseph Gordon-Levitt and Brady Corbert, 2005.
George Pimentel
Drew Barrymore and Fabrizio Moretti, 2004.
George Pimentel
Anton Yelchin, 2007.
Albert L. Ortega
Mary-Kate Olsen, 2008.
Frazer Harrison/Getty Images
Source: Vanity Fair

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