Smart filters

This entry is posted on number 21 of Vanity Fair on newsstands until May 20, 2025 and is part of the special beauty dedicated to how to sunbathe having only benefits

Other than simple cosmetics. Today the solar have evolved into prevention tools that protect the skin from photo -aging and from the risk of skin tumors. It is no coincidence that in some countries they are classified as medical products. “For example, in the United States they are regulated as bench drugs, in Australia they follow the legislation of therapeutic products with very rigorous controls, in China they are considered functional cosmetics, a category that requires preventive approval by the National Medical Products Administration”, explains Giulia Del Fraro, Formulation Manager of Roelmi HPCa company specialized in the production of active ingredients for the health and beauty sector. «In Europe, even in Europe we begin to discuss a more stringent legislation, especially for the delicate bands of the population such as children or for those with skin problems. Let’s say that the direction is clear, sun protection will increasingly be an act of health ». In addition to the effectiveness guaranteed by the SPF filters, the innovation in the photoprotection sector focuses on the beginning of the formulas and on the pleasantness of the texture. “The new generation molecules guarantee a broad spectrum shield, not only from UVA and UVB, but also from blue and infrared light, they are photostable, that is, they protect in a constant and continuous way over time, they are better tolerated even by those with sensitive or reactive skin and have a low environmental impact. Some formulations use intelligent technologies, such as encapsulation, to distribute filters uniform and invisiblely, “specifies Del Fraro.

Solar creams thus become multifunction treatments, rich in antioxidants, moisturizing and soothing assets, films agents that improve product adhesion even in extreme conditions or under make-up. As it also supports Marta Moretti, Cosmetics R&D Specialist of Unifarco: «The biggest challenge is to make them as pleasant as possible to facilitate its use. For example, let’s think about technology wet skin, which allows you to spread them even when the skin is not completely dry ». An important thing to know is that when we talk about SPF 30 or 50, we only mean protection from UVB rays, that is, those responsible for scalds. “As for grapes, which accelerate the aging of the skin, there are various possibilities that depend on the legislation of the different countries and must be indicated on the packaging. We can find the abbreviation PA followed by + or the circle grape stamp, these symbols certify that the product has been tested with parameters compliant with the classification method used “, continues Moretti. And speaking of the diatribe if it is better to use solar soars with chemical filters or physical filters: “At European level there is a section of the regulation dedicated specifically to the solar filters: this list is constantly updated to the light of scientific evidence and also reports the maximum concentrations allowed in the formulations to protect consumer safety. In recent years there has been some ingredients including thehomosatea chemical filter suspected of being an endocrine interferent and therefore subjected to further investigations that have revised the amount applicable in products for face and body. Another theme that has raised concerns between public opinion is linked to Nano filters. Currently on them there are no sufficient scientific studies that demonstrate its effective danger to human health. The only restriction relates to their use in nebulized systems, where they are prohibited. Beyond alarmism and personal sensitivity, the fact that the regulation is constantly overhauled on the basis of the opinions of the scientific committee of consumers gives us the certainty that everything that is inserted within a cosmetic is safe “. According to this logic, there would therefore be no contraindications ascertained in using a SPF every day in the city, a habit to which especially the Gen Z is very devoted. “The advice remains to choose a specific sun for your needs, especially in the case of atopic skin or children”.

Numbers to rely on

1. DOSTEMOL FACE AND BODY WITH 25 ACTIVES CLEAN: After Sun Emulsion Of Bakel (€ 59).

2. New maxi format and 65% of skincare ingredients: Expert Sun Protector Lotion SPF 30 Of Shiseido (€ 57).

3. Also contrast the stains: Sunleÿa Soin Solaire Anti -âge SPF 50+ Of Sisley Paris (€ 246).

4. With NCEF inspired by biorevitalization: UV Cellular-Protect SPF 50+ body Of Philorga (€ 45).

5. Daily protection also from blue light: Urban Shield Invisible Fluid SPF 50+ Of Kiko Milan (€ 20.99).

Urban Shield Invisible Fluid SPF50+Luzzitelli Danieli Production

6. From the texture in oil, it protects and stimulates: Oilsun SPF 30 Of Rhea Cosmetics (€ 64).

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