Snails: the recipes they have conquered us and what their real name is

The snails abound in recipes of the Italian tradition – especially Venetian, Sardinian and Sicilian – which range (respectively) from the stewed version with polenta to the one with the tomato sauce and with the beaten of garlic and parsley. At one time actually – when hunger was so much and nobody passed through the head Schizzinoserie – they were widespread everywhere: easy to find in nature, they guaranteed an excellent protein intake saying a lot. As long as the shelves of the shops have filled, the supermarkets stunned us with rapid (or even ready) foods, most of the tradition has been blessed. And the snails have disappeared from our daily recipes. To the point of make us, today, even impression. We admit that we have been part of the category of wary until 10 February last, when we participated in the event Superfood Supercool At the Pius XI space in Milan: it was a matter of tasting the snails (yes, this is the correct name; the snails are those without shell) Method that interpreted by the chef Fabio Ingallinera of the National Vernante – a Michelin star – and Diego Rossi of the award -winning Trattoria Trippa Milano. In short, two absolute guarantees, but this has managed to appease our anxiety only in part.

Healthy and ecological

Snails in the greenery – Orsino garlic butter, tempura, mystique and green bernese: Chef Fabio Ingalllinera of Il Nazionale di Vernante (CN)

International Institute of Heliciculture Cherasco and Italian Lumacheria

We also knew that the snails cherasco method they are healthy – 14% of proteins, only 0.7% of fats, rich in mineral salts – and sustainable: to produce a kilo, in fact, only 150 liters of water are needed, against the 11,000 needed for the same amount of beef raised naturally. Not really details. In addition, the regulation that regulates its production provides only plant nutrition, symbiotic agriculture and a protection network. The rest does the time that in only 6 months, thanks to the short natural cycle developed by the International Heliciculture Institute, transforms the mollusk into a stable and mature snail. Leveraging the information in our possession, we therefore faced with determination the first taste in the “aperitif” phase, with the snails with tomato sauce and the Italian snail pesto (they have been found for about a year in the main supermarkets), to be heated just . Well: No calliness, rubberness or earthy aforementioned aftertaste. On the contrary, the softness and sweetness stand out, in a consistency similar to that of seafood.

The test of tasting

Snails and head to the Boscaiola Puree of snail potatoes cooked with porcini powder veal mushroom head ...

Snails and head of the bush – potatoes of potatoes, snails cooked with porcini powder, veal head, pleurotus mushrooms, tomato, chives: chef Diego Rossi, tripe milan

Courtesy International Heri -growing Institute of Cherasco; Italian snail

After the first rock, we therefore waited for the proposals of the chefs with impulse: it Chef Fabio Ingalllinera of Il Nazionale di Vernante (CN) presented his Snails in the greenery – Orsino garlic butter, tempura, mystical and green berneseplaying on contrasts and fresh notes: “The cherasco method gives the snails a refined taste, a white pulp without terrosity, making them perfect for our recipes where we use herbs and aromatic that give snails to the snails,” he explained. “From my Sicily, where the snails are a traditional dish and are part of my gustatory DNA, I inserted them on the national team menu, happy to be able to offer our customers the snail of Cherasco, bred with a method attentive also to the territory” . Diego Rossi, Patron of Trippa Milanohas chosen a very different way, from applause: Snails and headboard head – potato puree, snails cooked with porcini powder, veal head, pleurotus mushrooms, tomato, chives. «The snail remains for me an ingredient of memory, he brings me back to the cuisine of our grandparents. I always keep it on paper because, like frogs and fried catfish, it is an unusual dish. I propose the snail of the cherasco method all year round with recipes that change every 15 days: their versatility opens to unexpected combinations that allow those who come to us to rediscover this precious product ». Both chefs stressed that the snail is not only an ingredient, but an extraordinary, healthy, tasty, “clean” food that in addition to the natural properties, is a sample of adaptation and versatility. He also reiterated it Simone SampòDirector of the International Institute of Heliciculture Cherasco and Italian Lumacheria: “Depending on the breeding areas, with different climate and land, the Cherasco method gives products with organoleptic notes and different hints: in the North they know of hazelnut, while in the center south tend to honey. The goal of our products is above all to bring a unique experience to the table, offering a product that tells stories of territory, passion but also discipline and a lot of innovation, for a production that is confirmed modern and sustainable “.

Source: Vanity Fair

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