Sometimes they come back (to say the least): the case of the labels sewn on the sleeves of jackets

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The details always make the difference, says the first commandment of fashion. The second tells us instead of the eternal return of things, predestined to be (re) interpreted and re-proposed in a new put. To tell new points of view on the changes taking place in styles and trends, as well as on the world and on mankind.

It happened, for example, with the labels: from sartorial quirk which served to seal the thousand vicissitudes hidden behind the creation of a tailor-made suit, we spotted them at Milan Fashion Week proposed by fashion houses such as Gucci or Versace. The former had to be absolutely unstitched, while the updated version wants them in plain sight alongside logos, prints and a long series of patterns. Coincidences?

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Versace. Photo Imaxtree.

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Alessandro Viero

Invention that dates back to couturier par excellence, Charles Frederick Worth, the label was never exhibited or ostentatious, according to etiquette. On pain of losing the state of grace and, above all, the possibility of climbing the peaks of the much sought-after elegance. Armed with needle, thread and a lot of patience, the tailor carefully chose materials, cut, fabrics and the entire constellation of details to meet the customer’s needs. And, a rule that must be respected, the label placed on the left sleeve had to be removed. In a delicate way, better if done by the tailor himself, the plate sewn on the jacket is like the icing on the cake: cute, but you can easily do without it.

All this has its roots in a way of conceiving the dress that had nothing to do with pomp or opulence. Rather it refers to sobriety, to the rules of an authoritative and timeless luxury that certainly did not need the weapons of seduction of marketing to be interesting.

Tailored suit. Photo Getty Images

Harold M. Lambert

But what sense do those sighted at the Milan Fashion Week who, being detached from their jackets, just don’t want to hear about them?

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We noticed them for example from Versace, placed on the sleeves of more or less oversized bustier jackets or on a cocoon-cut bomber jacket. Or from Gucci – the brand headed by Alessandro Michele he had already thrown them with the sign Orgasmique on jackets and trousers during the presentation of the Spring Summer 2020 collection – combined with a laboratory logo of a collaboration with adidas, put on jackets to say the least phantasmagoric built with an impeccable cut. We are talking about two sacred fashion monsters – Donatella Versace And Alessandro Michele – who find themselves dealing with a heritage so rich in narrative codes that they could easily sit idle and feel exempt from any kind of creative effort. You didn’t think that label was put there for lack of inventiveness?

We have also seen the labels from GCDSworn by Tananai during the presentation of the collection Autumn / Winter 2022-23. The Italian singer was immortalized wearing a double-breasted python jacket with the leather logo on the left sleeve. Between glamor and kitsch, the strategically juxtaposed label on the sleeve gives everyone a sense of immediate fulfillment, relieving us of particular efforts to understand..

Even if it will make some lover of tailoring traditions turn up their noses, who just won’t swallow it, that plate affixed to the jacket complete with lettering.

Tananai guest of the GCDS fashion show.

This whole thing with labelsalthough reinterpreted in a decidedly more glamorous key, it is the mirror of a constant need to have to affirm hastily and at all costs their own identity. Need to which i brand in fashion they have to answer in order to stay on crest of the waveto be attractive and consequently instagrammable.

It is clear, perhaps superfluous, to highlight how these labels tell another version of the facts: that you have to run, shout out what you want to hear, sell. There at the tailor’s, on the other hand, the atmosphere was decidedly calmer: that dress deprived of the label on the sleeve said that one could talk about each other even without making too much noise. A real luxury.

Gucci. Photo Imaxtree.

Alessandro Viero


Source: Vanity Fair

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