The best Parmigiano Reggiano and how to choose it

That Parmigiano Reggiano is a national treasure – best cheese in the world according to the latest ranking of Taste Atlas – it is known, but few know that in addition to the production areas, the skill of the individual cheesemaker, the different maturations and the diet of the dairy cows, the breed to which they belong also matters a lot. Well, we will talk about it in Bergamo during the sixth edition of Shapes – reference event for the Italian dairy sector, from 18 to 20 October – between meetings, workshops, tastings and possible purchases of rare cheeses. One of the cheese lab it intrigued us a lot: it’s called Parmigiano Reggiano in colour: white, red, brown and red spotted (Friday 18th at 4pm, but tickets are sold out) and leads it SIvan Romans«passionate connoisseur and selector, with a diviner’s talent, of the best Emilian gastronomic specialties», and «owner of 11 extraordinary “taste shops”». This, in short, is its official presentation. We decided to contact him to better understand what the point is, that is: how to recognize the excellence of the king of cheeses and how to use them.

Absolute masterpieces: but with what milk?

Let’s start from the beginning: «In general, to obtain a wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano you need from 500 to 550 liters of milk» explains the expert. «It is usually obtained from Friesianseach of which produces between 50 and 55 liters per day. Much more than brown cow (20-25 litres) and, going down, to red from Reggio Emiliaat the Italian red pied and to Modenese white (12-14 litres)», explains the expert. On the other hand, however, «superior quality milk is obtained from these breedsin particular for the content of proteins – such as casein – and fatty acids. Furthermore – thanks to the presence of small casein micelles – the milk coagulates better and allows the creation of a richer and more concentrated product.” For this reason, many of the 292 producers they also started breeding this type of livestock, adding their milk to that of the Friesians to obtain a better Parmesan. But between them there are also those who use only one of the finest varieties, and here we are faced with absolute masterpieces. For example:

White Cow Parmesan

The Modenese white cow’s milk stands out for its ideal ratio between fat and proteinswhich allows for rapid and resistant coagulation, perfect for excellent Parmigiano Reggiano, a Slow Food Presidium.

Red Cow Parmesan

The multiple award winner is still different Parmigiano Reggiano red cows it has an unmistakable flavour: it comes from milk rich in proteins – casein in particular – calcium and phosphorus.

Brown cow parmesan

Rustic and docile, present in the Parma countryside for centuries, the brown cow it produces milk rich in fat and with optimal properties for cheese making.

Italian Pezzata Rossa Mountain Parmesan

And again: the Mountain Parmigiano Reggiano made exclusively from Italian red pezzata It is extraordinary, exclusively produced in the Colline del Cigarello and Canossa dairywith milk from cows of this rustic Italian breed, in an uncontaminated rural environment on the Reggio Emilia Apennines.

How to use them in the kitchen

Recognizing these masterpieces is simple, given that the particularity – being a plus – is reported on the label. Then it’s a matter of using them in the best possible way, because grating them on the pasta is a bit wasted. “I am tasting cheeses“, continues SIvan Romans. «Parmigiano Reggiano, thanks to its versatility, lends itself to a vast range of combinations ranging from classic honey, balsamic vinegar and mustard, to more innovative combinations with white chocolate or aged rum. Longer maturations, over 36 months, go well with more structured balsamic vinegars and fuller-bodied wines. The interesting element is that there are no rigid rules, and culinary creativity is part of the experience. This cheese can be used in the kitchen from appetizers to desserts, and is the best way to discover its potential and experiment, combining based on personal taste and the context of the tasting”