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Make-up, air pollution, excess sebum, cosmetic residues represent a deadly mix for skin balance. «If not carefully removed, they make the skin vulnerable and fragile because they create a sort of superficial opaque filter that makes the complexion dull and gray, which clogs the pores causing not only blackheads but also inflammation and pimples. In short, they create a veil that removes oxygen from the skin, favoring the aging process », explains Corinna Rigoni, President of Italian Women Dermatologists. «It also prevents the absorption of cosmetic care treatments, canceling their beneficial effects».
Facial cleansing: when and why
Cleansing should be repeated twice a day for different and equally important reasons for preserving skin integrity and skin beauty.
In the morning, the cleaning is used to remove the residues of the cosmetics applied the previous evening, the sebum generated during the hours of night rest and perspiration. “It is crucial when chemical exfoliants are used, with retinol or enzymes, molecules that can interact with UV rays (they are active all year round and not just in summer), stimulating the formation of irritation or discoloration”, explains the dermatologist.
In the evening, cleansing is essential to eliminate unwanted makeup deposits, traces of cosmetics applied in the morning, pollution and fine dust present in the atmosphere. Not only. “To protect itself from the action of external agents, among other substances the skin produces sebum which, like a magnet, retains everything that is deposited on the surface: if they remain in the skin pores they stratify and, in the long run, favor the formation of points blacks and other imperfections. Cleansing removes these accumulations and makes the face fresh and ready to absorb skincare treatments in the best possible way ».
The essentials of facial cleansing
Although there is an increasingly full-bodied range of products intended for facial cleansing, some types can be considered classics, starting with from cleansing milk. Considered a must, performs two functions: it deeply removes make-up and impurities, and at the same time releases moisturizing elements that build the skin protection barrier.
Micellar water it has a very delicate formulation and is ideal for removing eye makeup perfectly and with extreme delicacy. “It is a texture that is increasingly favored by those who have a strong sensitivity in this area,” explains the dermatologist. “It is also the lightest consistency cleaning product and one of the most effective. About the micro particles of molecules (micelles) capable of acting with simple contact, attracting unwanted substances like magnets ».
It is the golden moment of cleansing oil and its derivatives (balms, butters and oily gels)
The cleansing oil is one of the most popular textures right now, and it is also proposed in solid versions as balms with a soft, buttery or gelatinous consistency, ultra-sensory and very pleasant to the touch, which turn into light oils when they come into contact with the skin. «This type of product acts by affinity and it represents the first step of the double cleansing of Japanese and Korean inspiration. It is used directly on clean skin and is very popular because it gives extreme comfort. It is massaged with light movements that also affect the eyes. In a few moments it causes the dissolution and detachment from the skin of the superfluous, including the most resistant make-up “, explains Antonietta D’Alessandro, biochemist and scientific consultant Iyo Skin.
The second step of double cleansing is to use another cleaning product. “After applying the oily cleanser, we move on the use of a mousse or a foaming cleansing product. It must be removed with lukewarm water and has a precise function: to complete the cleaning by completely eliminating any residual impurities that the oil has not been able to wipe out », explains the biochemist.
The tonic is the last step of cleansing. Astringent and rebalancing acts in synergy with the first steps (micellar water and cleansing milk, or the foaming product to be rinsed). It is quite free of fatty elements, it frees the skin pores from any traces of dirt and has the purpose of balancing the pH (degree of acidity) of the skin restoring skin comfort. “There are different types: with a soothing effect for very sensitive skin, astringent capable of reducing the size of skin pores and ideal for mixed and oily skin, and moisturizers for dry skin”, concludes Corinna Rigoni.
Face cleansing: are you sure you do it right? Everything you (perhaps) did not know yet
Facial wellness: the best manual tools and high tech devices for the face
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The Organic Pharmacy
Carrot Butter it has a melting consistency similar to a balm which in contact with the heat of the hands turns into a silky cleansing and make-up remover oil for face and eyes. Contains carrot, rosemary and calendula oils and extracts with antioxidant and revitalizing action. It is a perfect evening cleanser for all skin types, even oily ones.
Cost: € 36.14.
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Shiseido
Waso Shikulime Gel-To-Oil-Cleanser is a 2-in-1 makeup remover and cleanser that is as soft as a conditioner. It traps impurities by transforming into an oil that also removes waterproof make-up without draining the skin’s hydro-lipid reserves. Contains Shikuwasa, a Japanese lime also called “fruit of longevity” due to its richness in polyphenols which support the integrity of the skin barrier.
Cost: € 28.
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Aromatic
Orange Cleansing Sherbet it has a solid consistency that melts and becomes an oil-based balm when it comes into contact with the skin: it removes all types of make-up and any impurities, deeply purifying the skin pores.
Cost: € 31.96.
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EuPhidra
2 in 1 Cleansing Oil guarantees physiological cleansing suitable for all skin types, even the most sensitive. It leaves no residue and is also ideal for dryness and severe dehydration. It does not contain dyes, parabens, silicones or vaseline oil.
Cost: € 10.96.
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Sebastien BOGLIOLOLa Roche-Posay
Effaclar H Iso – Biome Cleansing Cream cleanses and soothes, delicately purifying. It creates a soft foam and its formula acts on the microbiome thanks to Aqua Posae Filiformis, a prebiotic biomass that strengthens the skin barrier. With Orellana extract with sebum-regulating action.
Cost: € 14.95.
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Uriage
Hyséac Tonique Purifiant purifies and tightens pores thanks to the combined action of glycolic acid, malic acid and lactic acid. Complete cleansing and refresh the skin.
Cost: € 10.49.
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Filorga
Démaquillante mousse dissolves all traces of impurities, make-up and excess sebum. Thanks to the formula enhanced with high molecular weight hyaluronic acid. It has a strong emollient action.
Cost: € 16.95.
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Eau Thermale Avène
Lait Démaquillant Douceur cleanses, removes make-up and calms sensitive skin from dry to very dry. Contains soothing thermal water.
Cost: € 12.09.
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Elemis London
Pro-Collagen Cleansing Balm is a deep cleansing balm with mimosa and rose wax, borage oil and elderberry seed oil, coconut, shea, sweet almond oil and vitamin E. It melts in contact with the skin and cleanses thoroughly.
Cost: € 44.63.
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Bioderma
Sensibio H2O is a cleansing micellar water with a calming action. The micelles contained in its formulation allow perfect removal of impurities and make-up while respecting the physiological balance of the skin. It is a cosmetic tested under ophthalmological control and does not contain perfume or alcohol.
Cost: € 11.83.
Source: Vanity Fair
