The black forest on foot: inside a fairy tale nature

For all those who grew up with the stories of the Grimm brothers, The black forest, or Schwarzwald, in Germanyoccupies a special place in the collective imagination. Thick expanses of fir trees, tortuous paths, and villages that open together with glimpses of heaven after the darkness of the woods are the settings of fairy tales such as Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs and Hansel and Gretel. The name alone “Black Forest” Joy and fear seems to promise in equal measure.

On the Westweg, the path in the forest

This region is able to offer, especially those who like walking in nature, Much more than a fairytale atmosphere and cuckoo watches. It is, in fact, of One of the most loved European destinations by walkers. It is precisely there that I directed me this summer, to the towing of the enthusiasm of a friend and without too many information on what I would have found, to travel the Westwega 285km journey that crosses the black forest from north to south (or vice versa).

Schwarzwald, capital of trekking

There Schwarzwaldlocated in the state of Baden-Württembergoccupies a mountainous area of about six thousand square kilometers in the south-west of the country, outlined, Almost like an island, from the Rhine plain, which marks the boundaries with Switzerland (to the south) and France (to the east). It is thanks to more than 23,000km of well maintained paths that hikers of all nationalities are attracted to the area, both for day trips and for long trekking. Already in 1924 it was one of the first areas in Germany to be designated natural reserve, by virtue of its unique habitats and biodiversity.

But it is even older association that I owe my Silvana adventure: founded in 1864, the pioneering Schwarzwaldvereinmade up of a small group of local hoteliers, immediately started to carry out A path that would allow hikers to cross the entire length of the black forest and touched the most scenographic and interesting points. Their goal, already in that distant era, was to encourage tourism and at the same time preserving landscape beauty and local culture: the original founders would be proud to know that their mission is, still today, considered a success. In fact, it was in fact that the Westweg, or via dell’Ovest, which still connects today PFforzheim (in the North) a Basel (in the South, in addition to the border with Switzerland), in a path that alternates the crest and western side of the massif in alternating.

Panorama near Belchen. Photo by Alisei Apollonio

Westweg in 14 days

Westweg trekking is traditionally divided into 14 stageswhich vary from 16km to 28km daily. Since the journey takes place entirely on well -kept and relatively well marked paths by the historic red roar that symbolizes this street, the Westweg can be an excellent choice for those who decide to try a long trek for the first time. Even the most experienced walkers, however, will have a sense of challenge along the way: although the highest peak of Schwarzwald does not exceed 1500m, The cumulative difference in height during the course is 8,000mequivalent to some of the highest mountains in the world.

Although Westweg can be traveled in both directions, It is usually recommended to start from the North and walk towards Basel. There are three good reasons to follow the suggestion: the first is that PFforzheimhaving been completely shaved on the ground during the Second World War and then quickly reconstructed, does not have much to offer to tourist and So, to finish in beauty, Basel is a much more tempting destination.

The black forest sometimes looks like a labyrinth and it is easy to take the wrong path. Photo by Alisei Apollonio

We have already passed here, I recognize that tree

The second reason to start from the north concerns the signs: being the “official” verse, The path is better marked in this direction. Starting from the south, some ambiguous choices are presented that require confidence in reading a map (or having a digital map with a position marked via GPS). Having a map and knowing how to use it is definitely a capacity not to be underestimatedeven on a well -marked and frequented path like Westweg.

Immersed among the trees of the forest, without access to a horizon that provides reference points, It is easy to understand how Schwarzwald inspired fairy tales with dark implications. Although it was July, our journey began under a varid sky-the gray-violet clouds opened at times, pouring on the water curtains, which the fronds of the trees made very little to alleviate. Throughout the first day, we barely met five people.

A series of wrong decisions caused by tiredness had led me and my adventure companion to walk in a circle not one, but twice but twiceamazed by the confusion created by Labyrinth of trunks and criminals deceptively inviting. Accustomed to the summer sun, the darkness of the forest seemed to awaken the fears that arose from the books of childhood fairy tales – I was certainly happy not to have ventured Into the Woods alone.

A panorama not to be missed

Even in the darkest of the fairy tales of the Grimm brothers, however, the sun arrives And so it was also for the rest of our trekking. Fortunately, why The third reason to stick to the official travel management is the panorama towards which we proceed. As often happens, the height of a mountain is related to what surrounds it: since the black forest is surrounded by plain, every top conquered, however modest, offers sublime views of distant regions.

In the north of the forest, the view of the VosgiBeyond the Rhine plain and in France, it is particularly suggestive tinted by the pink colors of the sunset. Has passed Titisee Lakehowever, that the true sense of leave begins. The flat area that extends south of Schwarzwald is so large, e The Swiss Alps are so highthat on terseous days it is possible to see the white-black wall on the horizon composed of the imposing peaks of the massif of Jungfrauincluding the famous north wall of the Eiger. The force of gravity exercised by these giants seems to be such, that walking towards them appears to be an inescapable consequence of their mass.

The most frequent panorama during this path and the undisputed protagonists are, however, the trees: It is in their company that we spent two weeks. It was easy, sometimes, insert the automatic pilot and to be transported, as on a treadmillfrom this apparently interminable succession, of fir trees, pines, and beech trees. But it was equally important Stop and absorb the sounds, colors, and the smells of the undergrowth, finding moments of pause that transcended the challenge to complete the trekking. Real opportunities for Forest Bathingin which the slow rhythms of nature dictated the passage of conversation, or silence.

Between clichés and authenticity

The famous black forest cake with Schwarzwald in the background. Photo by Alisei Apollonio

At the other extreme of the spectrum, in Schwarzwald, there is the Kitsch, From watches to Cucù – the rival towns of Schonach and Triberg compete for the title of capital of this art – to the black forest cakes. But these examples, and above all the Schwarzwälder cakesI accepted them willingly. However, I was not prepared for the grotesque-kitsch sculpture guarding the Danube source. I was very curious to see this place, the initial point of one of the most important rivers for the Central European history and culture, which from the heart of the Black Forest crosses ten countries and develops for 2,860km – ten times the length of the Westweg – before flowing into the Black Sea. Although the visit to the site left me perplexed, and it did not leave me the sense of poetry that I perhaps was looking for, it was a suitable reminder with these Modest origins can play a crucial role in the history of Europe, and I am happy to have visited it.

Fortunately, not all clichés come to harm: The edges of the path were flanked by blueberry bushes, raspberries and strawberries who have softened moments of thirst or effort. The prospect of Schnitzel And other similarly substantial dishes at the end of the day helped to propose to us during the climbs. The homemade hospitality of the area, certainly in tune with what originally imagined by the founding hoteliers of Schwarzwalverein, was reassuring.

At the end of a tiring day, The most coveted prizes are a good meal and a night of sleep in the silence of the woods. This is precisely this, I agreed my friend and I, the reason that makes trekking long unique experiences: Far from one’s daily life, with few belongings on the shoulder and long kilometers in front, our needs are reduced to the necessary strait and forget about what “we owe”, “we want”, “we are” beyond the immediate. These are the moments, let’s find out, in which we are freer.