Road of the Orecchiette, Bari Vecchia. The address could perhaps play strange to most, but a tourist just arrived in Puglia will understand perfectly where to go. In the historic center of the capital, now, The “lords of the orecchiette” have become a small myth. And like every myth, they are in the same way loved and hated, without too many middle grounds.
Since they started preparing the orecchiette along the street, showing the ancient art of kneading flour and semolina to bring out one of the most representative products of the territory, their fame has become global (the New York Times), And Tourists queue to see them at workand also to buy their products. There Mrs. Nunzia – The most famous of the pastaie of the orecchiette road, Bari takes it every day on its social networks, where it counts a sequel to almost 65 thousand followers.
But not everyone sees his success and his colleagues positively, especially after the Bari prosecutor has opened an investigation for an alleged scam against customers, To which some ladies seem to sell industrial orecchiette by passing them off as crafts. The doubts were mainly raised by some local bloggers and journalists, and were then transformed into a complaint.
Then there were the problems of the hygienic-sanitary rules, remedied at least in part by the intervention of the Municipality, which offered the pastaie a free HCCP course, demonstrating The will to collaborate with what is the manifestation of an ancient traditionand, as well as an undoubted tourist attraction resource. But, a few days ago, the fines for employment of public land arrived, and the pastaie crossed their arms, stopping working. For protest or – says Mrs. Nunzia – for fear of being sanctioned again.
The mayor and Mrs. Nunzia: opinions in comparison
Explains Vito Leccese, mayor of Bari: «Nobody doubts that theBass (the area where the “Road of the Orecchiette” of Bari Vecchia is located, editor’s note) both an attractive area on the tourist level, and we certainly do not want to give up the atmosphere it gives, also because it is artisanal creation of the pasta smells of authenticity ». On the theme, the mayor shows himself ready to tend to hand to the ladies Pastaie (with whom the city administration has started a path of authorizations just a few months ago, he explains), provided that they respect a fundamental requirement on which he is not willing to mediate in any way. “What we cannot bear is that industrial products are sold by passing them off as crafts”says. “We do not want to dismantle a garrison of authenticity in any way, provided that it remains such».
In short, you can reason and interloquire on everything, trying to find mediation and sanctioning the healthy. HCCP, public land, authorizations. As long as the customer is not scrupted. Which, admits Mrs. Nunzia, has actually happened (and for which several pastaie were fined). «It is true, industrial ears have been bought in the neighborhood and they have been passed off as crafts. At the beginning, taken from the heat, I had made myself put in the middle, but then I took them away immediately », says Nunzia. “We know who they are the ones who do it, but we cannot name the names: do you think we put other problems on the shoulders? They are the authorities (the authorities, editor’s note) who have to do it. I already be seen badly because I am the one who has regularized himself ».
The pastaie, between hatred and love
In Bari Vecchia, the situation of the orecchiette seems to be more tense than what the many groups of tourists who are attracted by the unfair folklore of this practice perceive. “There are people who persecute us”says Nunzia. “They call us the Pastaie clan, to say how fierce our detractors are fierce».
But, as she herself admits, the problem of the fake craft ears existed and still exists. And it is a shame, because there is no doubt that the work of the pastaie can be a heritage to be preserved. “This is an ancient tradition, which belongs to our mothers and grandmothers”says Nunzia. “We cannot set it aside. We have places adjacent to the road, I transformed my mom’s house into a small shop. We cannot welcome tourists inside, the groups are very large, and so we remain out with a table to work the pasta ».
98-99% of the seaside concessions have expired, the extensions are illegitimate, yet the managers are allowed to occupy the beaches and to profit on a good of all by paying negligible canons. We talked about it with the lawyer Roberto Biagini of “Free Sea” who asks for the intervention of the prosecutors and the possibility, for everyone, to go to the sea without paying: “We must exercise our rights”
Then, a week ago, the fines for employment of public land arrived. And the pastaie stopped. “Until he arrived the commissioner and he told us that we could continue to work, as long as we sold the craft ears,” says Nunzia. “The guides and tourists were our victory – he continues with a pinch of pride: they were the ones who complained after we stopped». For the rest, Nunzia claims to not fear anything anymore. «I am ready, I am in order, I am working with all the certifications. We pay the public land that we occupy as any other activity and we have the support of the Municipality ».
The mayor confirms, also with respect to the occupation of public land: “The houses of Old Bari are of very small surfaces, especially those on the road floor, therefore traditionally some activities were carried out outside: not only the ears, there were also the frames to dry typical products such as tomatoes and dried figs”, says the first citizen. “This obviously is good for artisan products, but not for industrial ones, Otherwise the criteria of commercial activities come into play ».
“The interest of the municipal administration is to safeguard the typical activitieswhich are also of tourist recall, provided that they remain unchanged the characteristics of craftsmanship and authenticity, which is then the one that attracts tourists in our places “, concludes.
We spent 48 hours in Bari, guests of the brand new Bra Hotel, between food, art and beauty, to see with our eyes how much the city is changing while remaining firmly faithful to its traditions
Source: Vanity Fair
I’m Susan Karen, a professional writer and editor at World Stock Market. I specialize in Entertainment news, writing stories that keep readers informed on all the latest developments in the industry. With over five years of experience in creating engaging content and copywriting for various media outlets, I have grown to become an invaluable asset to any team.
