The great conquest of the women of wine

This article is published in number 12 of Vanity Fair on newsstands until March 23, 2021

Prepared, courageous, strong and sensitive and ever more numerous, the women of wine have made their way with determination in a world that until a few years ago was dominated by men. We asked five of them, among the best known, the secret of their success and what rules should be changed in society and at work (In the photo gallery, their role and their cellar).

Chiara Soldati: lead by example
«Being tenacious, professional, without giving up one’s femininity, to no longer be experienced as a limit but as an element of distinctiveness.

This is what it means to me to be a contemporary woman. Years ago that of wine was a purely masculine world and women were viewed with distrust: in addition to being very well prepared, they had to communicate a lot of safety and reliability. And it was reliability that was the first feature that I wanted to achieve in the company; then, once the challenges of the work have been managed and resolved, I set myself the goal of enhancing the denomination where I produce, Gavi Docg. I don’t think that gender differences are a discriminating factor for achieving professional goals. Either you are good or you are not. The most important thing is to have the opportunity to get involved. I managed to reconcile the roles of entrepreneur and mother. Children are raised more with examples than with words. As my mother (Luisa Soldati) says, “we create great vintages, but the most important thing is to create great generations” ».

Chiara Lungarotti: in the right place
«You need preparation, curiosity and passion to be able to reconcile family commitments and work: in my case, as an all-round wine producer. It was my mother Maria Grazia, a woman who was ahead of her time, a pioneer of wine tourism in Umbria and founder of the Torgiano Wine Museum (MUVIT) and the Olive and Oil Museum (MOO), who taught me the importance to cultivate not only the passion for work, but also cultural interests. Today the world of wine is no longer the preserve of men. This is demonstrated by the boards of directors of our trade associations where women are increasingly numerous. And we are there because we deserve it. Gender equality means giving women the same starting opportunities as men, then preparation and commitment will determine success. To hinder equality is the absence of welfare policies that concretely support women in managing family commitments, the weight of which often falls entirely on them “.

Francesca Moretti: if there is a rule
«The woman has always been contemporary, it is the men who often do not notice it. For me it means reconciling work with my family and my interests, taking part in public life, making an impact on the choices that will change society. The world of wine is still very masculine, the only weapon is perseverance. I never stopped setting myself goals and I was supported by the people who work alongside me, among them many women. There are many girls who are approaching this sector, also establishing themselves internationally. In my opinion, no new rules are needed, it would be enough to apply those already written without making gender discrimination. But only when we no longer lose our jobs fivefold during a global crisis and we equally conquer the roles of power, can we say we have the same rules.».

José Rallo: The importance of time
“Determination, curiosity and a certain perfectionism have given the right rhythm to my life and the ability to face the challenges of the present: sustainability, digital, the pandemic, being the mother of two children who enter the world of work. There is only one woman who inspired my life, my mother Gabriella, who when she inherited her father’s vineyard decided to change her life and face a world where there were no women entrepreneurs of wine, at least in Sicily, always with a smile and a grit dressed in elegance. Women must not give up their role as mothers, wives, daughters, we must create more services and change the rules of the game. A Board meeting cannot start at 4 pm without a fixed duration, women can work up to 48 hours straight, but they need to know it first to be able to organize themselves at home: the “from … to” is my rule».

Marilisa Allegrini: The magic of little things
«We must be protagonists of our time, carry out actions that mark the way to make people aware of the true value of women. My grandmother Caterina, whom I did not know, was an inspiration for me: she was a free and emancipated woman who was able to imprint the family business with courage and entrepreneurial ability. The role of women in the world of wine has changed a lot: we have gone from being almost neglected to being the undisputed protagonists. Despite this, inequalities remain that still need to be overcome. We need to be optimistic, rediscover the magic of small things, cultivate family values, commit to leaving a “legacy” to their children “.

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