As soon as you get to the Chanel estate in Grasse, in France, you immediately realize that you are in a place out of the ordinary. The house in the middle of the flower fields is surrounded by an immersive and joyful nature, suspended by time. Yet it is precisely time, with its seasons and the passing of day and night, to mark the rhythms of collection and extraction of gelsomini, flowers with an olfactory potential that captivates.
This is where the magic happens, where the most iconic perfume ever comes to life: Chanel N ° 5, which celebrates 100 years of history this year.
Protagonist of this behind-the-scenes journey into the fascinating world of Chanel, Maria Host-Ivessich, influencer and director of the duo Marco + Maria, passionate and collector of perfumes. A dream come true, even more beautiful live than in the imagination, an opportunity to meet the nose Olivier Polge, creator of Chanel N ° 5 L’Eau, a more casual and fresh version, which Maria defines perfect for the day and for the Millennial generation.
THE SECRET OF THE CHANEL JASMINS
They are harvested between August and October and grow in an ideal mild climate, which makes their scent unique, different from jasmine grown in India. They hatch at night and in the morning the harvesters place them in their wicker baskets and wrap them in a damp cloth to keep them at their best. They are weighed within three hours of harvesting and taken to the laboratory where the extraction process: for a kilo of jasmine it takes a thousand flowers.
Once deposited in the extractor, the jasmines are sprayed with a solvent heated to a high temperature which, however, respects their intrinsic delicacy. Once the solvent has evaporated, the flowers begin to release all their olfactory essence and take the shape of the concrete, a dense aromatic wax. From this concrete, through another extraction process with a lower temperature solvent, we obtain theabsolute which is the one used by the nose for the composition ofChanel Extract N ° 5. A kilo of concrete gives 500 grams of absolute, while to obtain a kilo of absolute it takes 700 kilos of flowers. It is the Grasse jasmine that makes the fragrance unique, their olfactory nuance, in fact, is destined only for Chanel to which almost all the production in the area belongs.
THE PERFUMES OF MARIA HOST
In a total Chanel look, Maria was the transposition of the lightness embodied by jasmine. With her distinctive grace, she has helped growers harvest flowers, learning the traditional quick and gentle movement of harvesting them. And it was in the flowery fields that he met his “rock star”, Olivier Polge, second generation Chanel nose, who told her the secrets and nuances of the jasmine of Grasse, the place dearest to him, which he has lived since child. Projected into this magical world of Chanel and Olivier Polge, Maria chose to wear the perfume for the meeting Boy from the Les Exclusifs collection because «the choice of a fragrance is an accessory of the personality but at the same time it is also linked to the person in front of you». Her advice for wearing Chanel N ° 5: «It’s a sumptuous perfume, I wear it in the evening, to feel more feminine. While to connect the night with the day, N ° 5 L’Eau, its fresher, more modern, carefree version takes care of it ».
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