The return of Jeremy Chan: the charming starred chef special guest at MasterChef Italia

This article is published in number 7 of Vanity Fair on newsstands until February 16, 2021

Single. An exploited term, but the most appropriate to define Jeremy Chan, his life and his cuisine. He is truly unique in his multiple being. Born in England, Chinese father, Canadian mother, raised in Hong Kong until the age of 8, he then lived in the United States, Canada, China, Spain and Denmark. He is now 33 years old and lives in London, where he opened the Ikoyi restaurant. He speaks seven languages: English, French, Spanish, Italian, Portuguese, Chinese and Farsi.

For astrology enthusiasts: Chan is from Aries.
During his stays in Italy he has always been fascinated by our conviviality and the way we communicate, richer and more expressive than in England: «We are more closed. In Italy it is easy to make new acquaintances, I am able to open up more ». He likes Milan for its efficiency but his heart was conquered by Naples: «I love it, so lively and fun, a ‘perfect chaos’. I like the people, the life on the sea, the sense of freedom that you breathe, perhaps because in London I’m used to being very controlled ». And he adds: “I looked around and thought: I could die here”, quoting, without knowing it, the famous phrase “See Naples and then die” by Goethe,
another example of “universal man” who was captivated by the charm of the city. Jeremy Chan’s love for our country is clearly reciprocated: his is much awaited second guest appearance a MasterChef Italy (broadcast on 11 February on Sky Uno and Now Tv) after the success of the last edition with public and social networks.

Giorgio Locatelli last year called you “son of the world”: is there a country you feel you belong to more?
“I don’t know: my father is Chinese, my mother is Canadian, I don’t feel I belong to one place. I’m fine in Europe: I like the way of life in countries like Italy, Spain and France, but home for me now is London, where I’ve lived for 8 years. But I don’t know if I’ll stay there forever ».
And is this way of being reflected in your cuisine?
“Yup. But it is not easy to explain how. I’m also writing a book about my restaurant’s cooking: I don’t have a long family tradition, to create my dishes I use all the experiences of life, influences, taste memories, sensations. I follow instinct and memory. It is not important to “locate” an influence but the result of what I am doing. I never think, for example, “today I want to recreate an Italian dish”: I start from an ingredient and try to understand how to use it best, from my perspective, to start a new story, something that is truly original ».
The cuisine of his Ikoyi restaurant has been called West African: is African influence really predominant?
«I opened Ikoyi with my partner and friend Iré Hassan-Odukale. He is Nigerian and it was right that there were also influences from his gastronomic experience. But it doesn’t mean that I propose African cuisine: I use its strong, spicy flavors, such as chilli and many other incredible ingredients which, unlike Asian products, are not very popular in England and Europe. You have to be sensitive, open to anything new or beautiful that can inspire a dish ».
He has a degree in Languages ​​and Philosophy and has worked as a financial analyst. When was the passion for food born?
«Mine is an international family, always traveling, there were few moments to be all together. I was 15 when, on the occasion of a holiday, I took control of the kitchen: I wanted everything to be perfect, special, and a good dinner is a great starting point. Years later, when I worked as a financial analyst in Spain, observing the custom of many families to go out together, numerous, to eat, my passion was awakened. I quit my job and started the new one ».
How do you imagine the kitchen in the coming years after this pandemic period, do you foresee any changes?
«I really want to do, to make up for lost time without being able to work with my team. And I think there will be many others like me with this “hunger”, this desire to propose ideas, and many people who will want to go out, to open their minds to new experiences. Quality restaurants will not close, they will be able to ride the recovery ».
We will see you as a guest for the second time in MasterChef Italy (Thursday February 11th). What was the experience of this edition like, without spoilers?
«The first time, last year, was really fun and a great opportunity to work with a team of very helpful people, who became friends, and to be able to explain my“ strange ”cuisine. I was impatient to return: I told how I use the ingredients, how my creativity proceeds. I presided with the other judges at the Mystery Box and the Invention Test: for the latter I brought a dish made especially for the program, which became the protagonist of the test. And then the competitors tried their hand at an exotic fruit that I chose… but that’s all I say ».
There are many Italians who consider themselves good cooks. Is there the same passion in other countries too?
«In China, yes, it is very similar to Italy, the culture of food is rooted. Maybe that’s why I feel a little at home when I’m in your country ».
Would you like to open a restaurant in Italy?
“Who knows. If one day it were to happen… but it would be a restaurant with Italian cuisine, not international. I would take the opportunity to experiment with all your products ».
What ingredients do you like to use the most?
«Rice, also for making sauces and ice cream, is a truly versatile ingredient. Then the chilli, I like spicy cuisine and I can’t conceive a dish without a spice, it’s like something is missing. And I use fish a lot ».
Do you have a comfort food plate?
«At home I like to prepare meat sauce, I cook it for eight hours, and homemade pasta. Then the fried rice with shrimps, a much faster dish ».
In a few days it’s Valentine’s Day: what do you recommend for dinner to a loving couple?
“Something light and simple, you don’t have to get heavy. I would prepare a dinner based on shellfish, oysters, scallops or raw fish, or a pasta, perhaps with clams – but a little spicy – and a fresh wine ».
Apart from cooking, what are you passionate about?
«Read, inform me. Now that I spend a lot of time at home I am studying the world of wine, which I find complex but incredibly fascinating: among the Italians I prefer wines from Friuli, such as Ribolla Gialla, those from Franciacorta, which I visited, and various reds, Tuscan, Piedmontese. and Etna. But I also inquire about the cultivation methods, the care of the territory. Because it is not enough to say that you are sustainable, first you have to understand what it means».

Photo by PA Jorgensen

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