The timeless charm of bruschetta (not only with tomato)

It is impossible to establish the origins of the bruschetta. Even on the name there are no certainties, it probably derives from «bruscare», that is, to burn ‘which is a word of the Lazio-Abruzzese dialect, even if cooking historians believe it was born in Campania, as a snack for field workers: the fact that the tomato is the main ingredient and the region expresses dozens of types gives weight to the hypothesis. But it is also true that Tuscany – in the area around Florence – has elevated the “fett’unta” – a slice of “silly” Tuscan bread – the one without salt – seasoned with garlic, oil, salt and pepper – to absolute simplicity which could date back to the period preceding the arrival of the tomato in Italy, at the end of the 16th century.

Anyway, bruschetta is an Italian heritage, widespread in all regions of the South and of the Center. In the North, a curious exception is the Sòma d’aj (“Load of garlic”) which consists of a slice of toasted bread on which a clove of garlic is rubbed and dipped in a drizzle of oil: tradition (Langhe and Monferrato) has it that it should be enjoyed together with a bunch of grapes.

But let’s go back to Tuscany where it is part of the gastronomic culture. And of sociability, as he explains Francesco Bracali – Maremma doc and refined chef – who leads the restaurant of the same name in Massa Marittima, one of the region’s bistellati. «When I think of bruschetta, the memory of the gesture and the presence of two elements that are also religious, bread and oil immediately come to mind. There is manual skill, rituality, conviviality. For us Tuscans, bruschetta also marks the joyful moment of pressing, when you can finally taste the new oil: you take a loaf, cut it into slices and it’s a big party ». explains the chef. Already the bread: for the Tuscans it must be silly, without salt. «And a little raw, with authentic flours and not too ‘clean’ as I say. Very hydrated but not acidic. It is perfectly fine if it is two or three days old: it is heated quickly on a grill, or on a normal iron pan ».

As for oil, de gustobus. And Bracali has his ideas, like everyone in Tuscany. «First of all, it must be monocultivar, I don’t like blends due to personal taste and type of cuisine. For bruschetta, the Seggiano DOP which is obtained from Olivastra Seggianese, in some municipalities located at the foot of Monte Amiata, seems ideal to me. It is an elegant, precise oil »he says. And the tomato? «I grew up having breakfast in the garden at the age of ten with bread, oil and tomatoes. For the bruschetta, the important thing is to choose it pulpy, ripe, not too rich in seeds and with little acidity: this goes beyond the variety that can be clustered, San Marzano or yellow datterino ». While we’re at it, for gourmets the transition from bruschetta to crouton is immediate. In Tuscany then the one with livers is top, a historical delicacy. But beware: there is the bourgeois one and that of the people as the chef explains. «The paté with livers, practically to be spread, is refined but the real one is prepared by wetting the crouton burned on the sides with the broth of the hen from which the livers are taken which – roughly cut – are placed on the bread». A show, in short, but it is known that meat offal is not for everyone. While the tomato bruschetta is timeless, here is the recipe.

The recipe for tomato bruschetta

4 slices of Tuscan bread

4 coppery tomatoes

garlic

basil

extra virgin olive oil

salt

black pepper

Preparation: Cut the tomatoes with two small cuts, forming an X, blanch them in boiling water for about 30 seconds, drain and let them cool. Remove the peel and cut them into four wedges, removing the seeds. Cut the tomato wedges into cubes, put them in a bowl with a clove of minced garlic, hand-chopped basil leaves, a pinch of oregano, a pinch of salt, black pepper to taste and a drizzle of excellent oil. Mix the ingredients well and leave to flavor for a few minutes. Lightly toast the bread on the grill, in the oven or in a pan to make it crisp, then spread the tomato dressing over it and serve.