Amman welcomes us with a pyrotechnic display of Jordanian relaxation: an undelivered suitcase, a smile and a promise (kept), «It will come». The thermometer reads 30°C at 10pm, but the breeze and the dry climate make everything different.
A I travel to Jordan is a lesson in essentialitywhere you learn to grasp with enthusiasm and amazement the transition from beige to a more pronounced shade of pink in the sandstone of which streets, buildings and objects are made. The variations on the theme are endless, the architectures mix just as the dominations on the territory have alternated.
The beauty of this country is learned through difference: the paths not paved but dug, the finely decorated funerary monuments not built from the foundations but obtained from caves in the mountains, the embroidery made of heavy wool worn in layers to protect from the heat. A journey that combines the charm of the ancient and the vitality of the modern, with a hospitality that makes every visitor feel at home.
The group tripthen, it is an extra security that allows you to get out of the comfort zone of those who perhaps struggle to dare in some aspects: distance, loneliness, language, to name a few. The great added value is the possibility of becoming allies of unknown peopleeach with their own history and experiences, to share everything that a journey offers, united in enchantment and challenges. Future spouses very much in love, couples of adventurous friendsdistant lovers united on holiday, food enthusiasts and sommeliers, couples struggling with the perfect shot for Instagram, volcanic blondes, retired former motorcyclists: a mix of human beings that was an integral part of the beauty of this undertaking.
The historical moment seems not to be the most suitable for visiting this country, but the site of Ministry of Foreign Affairs it comforts us by just remembering to stick to following normal common sense protocols and keep security alerts monitored. Guided tours are the best way to travel to Jordan, because they allow you to always have a local Arabic-speaking guide and not have to book travel within the nation yourself. We were invited by viaggiogiovani.it to participate in one of theirs group travel which alternated days discovering archaeological sites and wild landscapes with moments of more authentic holidays, on the shores of the Red Sea and the Dead Sea. Here is our itinerary, from Jerash to Petrafrom the Wadi Rum in Aqabafrom the sea to the desert, to the cities, a week in another world. Here’s what we saw.
Immersing yourself in archeology is inevitable here, no matter how much of an Indiana Jones fan you may be. The site of Jerash, one of the best preserved Roman cities in the worldkeeps the visitor with his nose turned upwards to admire the ruins right from his entrance, marked by the imposing Hadrian’s arch. These rows of civil and religious buildings brought to light by excavations are certainly an excellent starting point to start exploring Jordan.
An unmissable stop at the historic site of the Amman Citadelthe Jordanian capital, which offers visitors a perfect balance between ancient and modern. It is a quick visit, but it allows you to appreciate the adaptations of the architecture to the styles of different eras and dominations, as well as enjoying a spectacular view of the city. The perfect Instagram Spot? The panoramic terrace of Umayyad Palacenear the cistern.
Water, flour and glue mixed well, are delicately applied from the rough side of a colored tile. A simple gesture, repeated thousands of times over the centuries and repeated with great skill, is the basis of the treasure of Madaba. The city is home to some of the most extraordinary Byzantine and Umayyad mosaics, including the famous Jerusalem Map Mosaic in St. George’s Church.
The Mount Nebo offers a breathtaking view, which encompasses the Dead Sea, the Judean hills and even Jerusalemmaking it a place of great historical and spiritual importance. Located a few kilometers from Madaba, this hill is famous for being the place where, according to biblical tradition, Moses observed the Promised Land before dying.
Petra, one of the seven wonders of the modern world, is one of the most visited destinations in Jordan. This ancient Nabataean city, famous for its pink rock tombs and temples, is a masterpiece of engineering and architecture. Stroll along the Siqa narrow gorge leading to the Treasury (Al-Khazneh), is a unique experience.
Having stayed on the outskirts of the site since the night before our visit, we had the opportunity to live an evocative experience that transforms the legendary pink city into an even more enchanting place. Every Wednesday and Thursday evening, the archaeological site hosts an art and light show. Walking along the sinuous path of the Siq illuminated only by candles, stars and the moon, you reach the Treasury, where a concert of traditional Bedouin music will take place.
For the daytime visit, it is important to know that, leaving the Treasury behind, a journey begins through countless royal tombs, all to be explored. once you arrive on the opposite side of the main entrance, you will find a nice bar where you can stop before taking a path (uphill, but not too tiring) that leads to the Monastery. It’s really worth walking along (and please leave the poor donkeys alone!) because the view is truly breathtaking. The panoramic point in front of the Monastery gave us one of the most precious encounters of the trip. Climbing up a steep path that winds in front of the ancient ruins, you can notice a Bedouin tent. We were immediately greeted by the scent of mansaf (typical Jordanian dish with stewed lamb) and a warm smile.
Once inside, our gaze was captivated by the colorful tapestries, embroidered cushions and ceramics that decorate the interior of the tent. In the Bedouin tent, every corner tells a story of life in the desert, with handmade objects and tools used in daily traditions. The hostess gave me a make-up lesson, showing me how to use one of the local pink stones to obtain a natural blush. Sitting on one of the cushions inside the tent, you can listen to the stories told by family members, including the 4-year-old who loves to run fast and has a donkey as a friend. Bonus: they take truly sensational and Instagram approved photos and videos with a view of the Monastery!
South of Petra, lies the Wadi Ruma spectacular desert that has fascinated writers, poets and directors. With its imposing rock peaks and vast spaces of golden sand, Wadi Rum is also known as the Valley of the Moon. Our itinerary included a jeep excursion among the dunes and a night in a tent immersed in the silence of the desert.
As the sun sets, the scene changes: the sky is tinged with shades of orange and pink, and the silent vastness of the desert. This meeting is not only an opportunity to learn local history, but also a rare opportunity to experience true Bedouin hospitality, which goes beyond the simple gesture of offering sage and cardamom tea. For example, a small birthday party was improvised for two of us, complete with “Happy Birthday” played on the rababah.
The holiday in a group and under the expert guidance of Jalal also allowed us to spend a night around the fire in the desert, singing and dancing illuminated only by the light of the moon. A magnificent experience.
Spending a day on a boat in Aqaba is an experience that immerses you not only in the colors and turquoise waters, but also in the beauty of an ecosystem that few places in the world can boast.
For our cheerful and noisy company this city was also an opportunity for an evening out. The darkness of the night is not a limit for the workers of the colorful souks that wind along the streets of Aqaba: you can stroll until late among fruits with unusual shapes, fragrant spices and crowded stalls.
The Dead Sea, with its incredibly salty waters, offers a unique experience. At around 400 meters below sea level, the Dead Sea is the lowest point on Earth, and its high salinity allows visitors to float effortlessly. Furthermore, its mineral-rich sands and muds are known for their therapeutic and beauty properties. Pro tip: it’s a good idea to wear goggles, never immerse your head and above all avoid swimming in the early afternoon, as the water would be very hot and absolutely impractical.
It was clear to us from the first lunch that this journey would be full of encounters, when we entrusted ourselves to our guide Jalal we stopped in an enchanted place.
Passing through a gate, you enter a flower-filled courtyard, with tables decorated with thousands of colorful mosaic tiles and a huge pergola. On the menu you will find traditional Italian dishes but made with Jordanian raw materials: delicious cheeses, fresh pasta, pizza and a delicious ice cream for dessert. This curious place that prevents us from being nostalgic for home food, however, is not (just) a restaurant: it is Mar Yousef pizza and JOlato which in reality the back of a Church and the seat of theHabibi Associationdirected by the very Italian Don Mario Cornioli. The dishes we ate were prepared by the boys and girls welcomed by the association: political refugees, disabled people or people reduced to poverty learn a trade thanks to the training courses that take place here.
In addition to the restaurant, normally open for dinner, on the first floor of the building there is also a lovely boutique: here over 150 women have learned the art of sewing, creating clothes and accessories with fine fabrics, ad hoc prints and local yarns, which are available for purchase.
Source: Vanity Fair
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