Weekend in the mountains: 10 addresses in South Tyrol

This article on the weekend in the mountains is published in the number 36 of Vanity Fair on newsstands until September 2, 2025.

To find it, just enter the Cathedral, walk the cloister with a solemn pace from bishops – for centuries the stars of the city – and arrived at the last arch raise the eyes to the sky: the cavalry is there.
The artist 500 years ago asked to paint a pachyderm certainly did not intend to create fake news, but if there is not even a drawing, it is the descriptions of ancient travelers who drive the brush.
The Cavaller of theSouth Tyrolextinct fantasy species, is slender, has long legs, a trunk rolled up like the tail of a monkey and seems designed by Miyazaki.

The spectacular view of the Sass de Putia and the Odle group in autumn. It is one of the excursions that can be reached from Bressanone.

Brixen tourismus_silvan lamprecht

Typical Schlutzkrafen South Tyrolean from Fink, a historic restaurant but with contemporary ideas that enhances the “monastic” cuisine: local and seasonal ingredients also from the convents of the area and no waste.

Moreover Bressanonethe oldest city of South Tyrol (of all the Tyrol, in truth), with its arcades, and the bells that resonate from the roofs to the mountains around as if everything was part of a larger musical mechanism, it is best explored in a hunt for treasures.
The monks, the severe but refined religious that have governed it for almost a thousand years, the abbeys now famous for the wine labels such as Novacella, But the atmosphere here is a little Gothic, almost steampunk.

One of the tables in the room of the star restaurant Apostelnstube of chef Mattia Aquila at the Hotel Elephant.

Mattia Aquila

You walk under arches covered with leaves, alleys and arcades like greedy clerics – two pastry shops for all: Studel house And PUPP – But for some time the mystical Middle Ages and this Denmark style design have joined something new.

And it is the bikes and e-bikers who act as new horses and knights: the Bike festival südtirola great event of two wheels, it will be here, in 2026, but already talk about it (suedtirol.info).

It is the new natural path to the mountain, the well -being in every breath, the curma wood that slows down the heartbeat, the closed shops (yes, all) on Sunday in favor of the rest of those who work and disadvantage of the crowds, and the good food, of course, reinvented by young chefs to the gentle assault of tradition, which bring the buds of the forest to the table and new ideas for ancient ingredients – try the 100% Local dishes of Sunnegg, with terrace between the vineyards of Kranebittand the kitchen
neo-maronastic of Fink, In the center, where the furnishings are also in tone between the design and the ancient arches: 100% of new alpine culture.
Which abounds in the next stage: Hotel Elephant. Even the clue to find this unique hotel of its kind, which was already there in 1400, is coincidentally an elephant.

Signeboard of Hotel Elephant in BressanoneStefano Scatà

I get painted on the facade, but this time no legends. It was called Soliman and stopped here attracting crazy from every valley on his journey from India to Vienna Circumnavigando Africa, as a cumbersome wedding gift from the king of Portugal to his nephew Arciduca Massimiliano: he also inspired a book by José Saramago (The journey of the elephantEinaudi). Following the traces of this story within the walls and the soft sofas of the Elephant or dinner on the terrace is a journey on the trip and it is also worth taking a look at a Hugo in the beautiful bar room.

This book by José Saramago tells the journey of the elephant Soliman from India to Vienna in the 16th century.

With the same owners from the eighteenth century, the Heiss-Falk family who recently transformed the stables into a spa, opened a starry but hot restaurant in an intimate art déco room (it’s called ApostelstubeChef Mathias Bachmann; Hotelelephant.com) and renewed with respect
Rooms and suite to keep up with the century, the Elephant has no small surprise. A large garden over a hectare that is accessed from a fairytale port that is practically a botanical garden in the middle of the city.
Those expanses of giant hydrangeas miraculously always in bloom as happens here, the fountains, the centuries -old trees high such as buildings and the orchards loaded with plums (and a hidden swimming pool where you swim in the branches: often alone, it is impossible to believe you are in the city) They are an in its own right holiday, such as jumping into Mary Poppins’ drawing or on the rampant baron tree.
Out of the park, other discoveries are waiting for those who return from the Unesco Trekking of the Dolomites and the infinite trips, from the nearby Val di Funes to the Alpe di Siusi to the city of the Jewelery of Closure with its fascinating, wonderful convent of Sabiona To be reached on foot (the cloistered nuns have gone recently, but the atmosphere is intact).

The convent Sabiona in Chiusa in the evening.

Luispinaphotogrpahy

From the library A. Weger, first typography in South Tyrol to introduce the mobile characteristics of Gutenberg, that is, the magic of the books, and still retains the original press, up to Kauri Store, Where everything, but everything, is for the sustainable lifestyle, from fashion to babies. And the sweets of Seebacher, Bottega of the past full of South Tyrolean specialties and not, with natural honey to take away.
As a thought that only some places know how to give us when we go home: the desire to want to live better, and the idea that maybe, why not, it will really be so.

The Lungofiume of Bressanone in the autumn, with the two towers of the Duomo standing in the ancient houses.

Philipp Seyr

The ancient dining room of the Hotel Elephant is now a lounge bar.

Mattia Aquila

The small museum of the Hotel Elephant.

Mattia Aquila

Mattia Aquila

Weekend in the mountains