After visiting the Roero by bicycle, from village to castle, from cellar to table set (with – invariably – large plates of raw meat, Russian salad, tajarin, cold cuts, etc etc), no one could have doubts: the best way to discover these areas is by bicycle. Electric, we would add, to withstand kilometers and food well.
Why is it beautiful on a bike? Because you need to pedal slowly, look, the stops from place to place, to really enter the territory. It is the same reason that makes the Aeolian Islands give their best on a sailing boat, the overall view, the sea that completes the island.
Here it does not change: the countryside becomes the sea to cross to get to the villages and it is she who tells the intimate nature of these places. Plowed fields, wheat, vineyards, the peach trees which look like oriental designs, i hazelnuts that here are green and mighty hosts. Pedaling takes possession of the most rural and peasant face of this land, which is its depth and its history, one moves from “island” to “island”, or from village to village, potentially through all 22 municipalities of the Roero, small villages on the highest hills, dominating lands and vines.
The idea of ​​the bike route was born atEnoteca Regionale del Roero, in the town of Canale, a wonderful place that collects 70 local DOC labels – Roero and Arneis among the first – and that welcomes in the same location the cuisine of chef Davide Palluda, in two visions: the haute cuisine of the restaurant on the first floor – one Michelin star – and the local menu of the tavern with a nice outdoor area in the courtyard. Not that the restaurant menu does not include the flavors and suggestions of the territory, quite the contrary. Palluda, born in Canale (he went to kindergarten in what is now the seat of his restaurant), certainly cannot forget his origins: “An aesthetic decade is over – he says, recounting today’s cuisine – and the period of ethics, which also means paying attention to the heritage of the past, binding oneself to the territory. The culture of the place where you were born is important, there is your knowledge, the world that you have before your eyes. Then you add the flicker, the flair, you lift yourself off the ground and from that base you create wonderful things ». “The product is material to be transformed and tamed, which is a beautiful exercise,” he tells me as we prepare for our cycling tour. I read the menu, I make a mental reservation for one “Rice, juniper and hare” and also a “Daino, grapes, peated whiskey and fermented cocoa” – the chef just told me about his interest in game – and let’s get on our bike.
TRAVELLING
The bike tour designed by the wine shop is a 41-kilometer loop ride, all up and down, on small asphalted roads and (short) pieces of dirt, to really enter the vineyards. For those who are trained it is not demanding, for those who do not ride a bike more or less since they learned it is very feasible with the electric bike. Potentially you could also do everything in one morning, but the nice thing are the stages, some not to be missed. From Canale you soon take a road that climbs the first hills and gives you the first glimpses of the panorama. The Roero, divided from the Langhe by the Tanaro river, it became part of the latter and the Monferrato del Unesco World Heritage Site in 2014. Its spirit is gained little by little, kilometer after kilometer. It is an ancient, rural, normal, reassuring and sweet Italy, among small hamlets where life seems to flow lightly.
A GOVONE
The first stage is a surprise: between small and winding streets, passing through a village bar where everyone is drinking an aperitif on Sundays at noon, you go up to Royal Castle of Govone beautiful, very elegant in red brick and white marble, with the baroque facade designed by the architect Guarino Guarini in the seventeenth century and the grand staircase protected by four talamones that come from the royal palace of Venaria Reale. In the nineteenth century it was the summer residence of Carlo Felice di Savoia who hosted parties and receptions here.
W THE WOMEN (MAYOR / CHE / CHESSE)
From here we proceed towards the second stage, we go up to the town of Magliano Alfieri, where the poet’s family had its castle, we enter a forest of fir trees, arrive at the center of the small park and find the mayor waiting for us. Giacomina Pellerino, a combative woman, tells us about this territory that bases its wealth on the goodness of hers apricots, on saffron high quality, on the miele, and on the desire and commitment to do things well, choosing organic crops and defending the territory. This alone is enough to love this small town gathered in a small strip of houses, with a belvedere which rises like a turret to see the hills and Monviso, with a tavern, three wineries where you can enjoy tastings (excellent Roero de Le More Bianche) and also a small and welcoming b & b with a single apartment, Casa Favole.
On every trip, even on a day tour, you leave your heart somewhere and I have left it here.
EAT, DRINK AND MORE EAT
The tour continues with us much less agile due to the kilometers covered and the wine drunk in Magliano Alfieri, but we still have three stages: the first atCostacatterina farmhouse where the owner makes us taste his Roero, accompanying it with raw meat, Russian salad and cold cuts. Then we continue towards the town of Guarene, and we immediately aim at the Castle which today has become an elegant one Hotel Relais Chateaux Castello 5-star luxury, where we try a wonderful chocolate dessert in the Italian garden. Last step a Vezza d’Alba, with a long climb that leads to this small town that seems to have been carved out of the mountain and its panoramic square, where the mayor welcomes us with another small snack, of which only the bravest of us are able to take advantage of it. Back to the wine shop we refresh ourselves with the futurist cocktail «The carousel of alcohol», based on barbera, and we prepare for dinner. What did we say with Palluda, game?
TO GO
The path told here is found on the app It is on BikeSquared website, and from them it is possible to rent bikes. To sleep in Canale, Villa Cornarea is a wine estate with a few rooms immersed in a garden, while theAgriturismo Malabaila it has nine apartments, an excellent restaurant and an equestrian club. The hotel Guarene Castle, where we stopped for a snack along the way offers an impeccable welcome. For dinner, needless to say you have to book from Davide Palluda, at the starred restaurant or at the tavern according to the kind of evening you want. To buy wine, atRegional Enoteca of Roero you can find everything, including professionalism and availability. A few taverns we have heard about (but haven’t tried): Osteria delle Aie in Castellinalto, Divin Roero in Vezza, Osteria Imperfetta in Govone.
Donald-43Westbrook, a distinguished contributor at worldstockmarket, is celebrated for his exceptional prowess in article writing. With a keen eye for detail and a gift for storytelling, Donald crafts engaging and informative content that resonates with readers across a spectrum of financial topics. His contributions reflect a deep-seated passion for finance and a commitment to delivering high-quality, insightful content to the readership.
