After a few hours of walking into the forest, the first traces appear: pieces of eaten and twisted bamboo indicate that the gorillas are close to us. A few more steps forward and the primate sounds are present. My heart races, my breath comes short and the emotion is contagious. Suddenly, being side by side with a family of gorillas becomes real – and the feeling of completing another dream of my life is indescribable.
One of the most popular tours in RwandaThe trekking with gorillas it is an activity that, today, involves the entire surrounding community and benefits the preservation of fauna and flora. Endemic to the rainforests of Central Africa, Rwanda’s mountain gorillas can be closely observed in the forests of the Volcanoes National Parkin the northwest of the country.
The park encompasses eight volcanoes, most of which are inactive, and borders the Democratic Republic of Congo and Uganda along its 160 square kilometers of area. It is in the midst of the diverse flora that we can see gorillas and golden monkeys and also stay at the Bisate Lodge, exclusive and surprising five-star hotel which helps us in the task of sighting primates.
What is observation and how is it made?
The walk between the hills and forests in order to see the gorillas in Rwanda is done in the Virunga mountains, part of the Volcanoes National Park. The mountains are the natural habitat of the mountain gorillaprimate found in Red List of the International Union for the Conservation of Nature and Natural Resources (IUCN) – which indicates risk of extinction.
Other mammals and birds coexist here, but this area of the country has become known for being the base of studies by the American zoologist. Dian Fossey, who settled here in 1967, founded a research center and helped to preserve gorillas, leaving a legacy that is still alive today. She started the process of getting them used to the presence of human observers so that we could see them up close and document their behavior.
Although the path with the gorillas is promising, the story is sad: she was murdered in 1985 and is buried in a grave near the research center and among some primates.
However, the preservation project is continued through its foundation, the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund and, once here, we recognize that she was right: in the 1970s, there were around 300 gorillas in the area. now the recent studies indicate that there are already more than a thousand individualswhich benefit from tourism – in which we, the visitors, help to finance their conservation.
We pay a very high permit fee to see them – an average of US$1,500 per person – which is fully donated to the preservation of these primates and also to the surrounding communities and farmers. The walks and observation are always done in a very respectful way in the company of authorized local guides, since we must preserve our life and that of the gorillas.
Preparations
Still at Bisate Lodge, the adventure starts very early: minutes before sunrise we are already wearing specific clothes for the walk. There are several jackets (including waterproof), gloves and boots, all necessary to make layers of protection, since we run the risk of getting wet in the rain or touching a plant that can burn our skin.
With anxiety pounding in our chests, we head out in a 4×4 towards the headquarters of Parque Nacional dos Volcões, where we take the temperature, check the paperwork and are informed of the rules and protocols. This is also the place where the guides meet with the chief to negotiate which itinerary to follow according to the profile of the group, and where they discuss the best positions and the gorilla family that we will try to observe.
are more than 40 gorilla families in the region, 12 of them for the Rwandan side – the family we found was the Kwitonda, in the dense vegetation of the Muhabura volcano. We are then taken to the base of the mountain, where, before entering the gorillas’ house, more guidance is given: directions and important information are passed on, such as behavior in the middle of the forest and our behavior towards the gorillas.
Thus, entering the forest to meet primates takes into account more than physical preparation: it involves planning, protocols, and, of course, a lot of will and anxiety. Seeing them is the ultimate goal, but all the way there, between rural settings and the characteristics of the rainforest, is also worth it – and increases the adrenaline.
The long-awaited encounter with the gorillas
Walks in the forests can vary in duration, from 30 minutes to four hours or even longer, at altitudes between 2,500 and 4,000 meters. Other guides and porters accompany us on the way, and are willing to carry backpacks and cameras and offer help along the way.
After some time, we left the base of the volcano and went in even higher directions towards the very dense forest. Some of the “guardians of the gorillas”, who accompany us on the adventure, open the forest with a machete. Along the way we can take off the masks, but we are recommended to put them back on when we get close to the gorillas, as their DNA is 98% similar to ours. It’s a way to protect ourselves and protect them too.
Gradually, some traces of its presence: eaten and twisted bamboo on the floor. Suddenly, primate noises. It’s time to put on the mask and approach respectfully. The heart is in the mouth!
IT’S inevitable not to contain the smile and emotion when we saw them and got close to them. There is a family, even with babies, who are very close to us. It is at this moment that they look us in the eye and make some noises. We must then bow our heads as a sign of respect and let our guide give a characteristic good morning, with other sounds and body signals. So the bigger gorilla lies down and relaxes, letting his guard down and making us comfortable.
This is impressive communication through sounds and languages, when both humans and primates understand each other. The expressions on their faces with staring eyes are chilling. IT’S important to remember that there are no bars, fences or walls: the animals were not placed here, they are in their house and we can communicate with signs of respect. After all, they are in charge.
From there, watching the little ones play with their parents (there was even a baby about six months old) is delightful. As long as the biggest one is lying down, the whole family feels safe – a great sign. It’s also funny to note that teenagers beat their chests and move all the time.
At a certain time, we saw and got closer to other members of the family, which has about 20 individuals. We were in the gorillas’ path when they wanted to pass, and we had to move our legs and give them space as they passed very close to our body quickly. Definitely a mixture of fear and fascination.
After hours in the forest, we returned to the hotel, perplexed by everything we had experienced. Everything was very special to me, as it was an experience I always wanted to have. I believe that the best experiences in life are those that transform us, and being in Rwanda with the gorillas was definitely one of them. I left marked by the tourism that involves and benefits the community – and with the desire to return.
Source: CNN Brasil
