What the cardinals eat during the conclave

What do Cardinal Vlectors eat during the conclave? And what have they eaten any centuries of the centuries? Today, Wednesday 7 May, the conclave begins and we wondered What the 133 cardinal voters of the new Pope eat which, from today, meet in conclave in the Sistine Chapelisolating from the rest of the world to the white smoke.

These are fundamental days for the present and the future of the Church, to such an extent that all cardinals will have to respect iron rules, not only to communicate with each other (less than outside), but also at the table. Because the food aspect must take into account intolerances and allergies not only of regimes related to health problems such as diabetes, given that the cardinals to dress “purple” are certainly not seminarians in the middle of youth. But also of the various personal food intolerances or restrictions.

The Menu of the Sisters of the Domus

To supervise the preparation of meals are the nuns Daughters of Charity of San Vincenzo de ‘Paoli which have been called to manage the Domus Sanctae Marthae – The modern hotel residence where the majority of the 133 cardinals (not all of them, as the suite are 105 and the single 26) will live during the conclave. The maximum menu includes a light breakfast in the morning with tea or coffee, bread and jam. Lunch, on the other hand, will be more substantial with first, second, side dish and fruit, to finish with a simpler dinner. The canteen does not offer too elaborate meals, so there will be rice, pasta seasoned with simple sauces, white meats, but also lamb arrosticini, baked fish, grilled vegetables, salad and seasonal fruit. At the table there will be water and wine. Bandies the spirits, like cell phones.

The testimony of the chef of Popes and Cardinals

Bartolomeo Scappi, who was the most famous cook of the Renaissance (and probably the first most famous chef in the world), served both the Popes Pius IV and Pio V. His book of 1570, Work of the art of cooking – The first of cooking published by a professional chef – catapults it to fame. In his book he says that the dishes prepared in the kitchen for the cardinals were strictly controlled by the guards before being placed in a sort of swivel wheel, with an order established by drawing. For the same reason, dishes were prohibited that could contain a secret message such as full cakes and chickens or stuffed ravioli. Even wine and water had to be served in transparent glasses (as happens today). It would therefore seem that the saying “trusting is good, not trusting is better”, it was valid at the time as now.

Bartolomeo Scappi’s book, the Papi cookAuction house skirts

Tools of the trade, from the book by Bartolomeo ScappiAuction house skirts

Conclavethe film between truth and fiction

For over 750 years, rigid rules have protected what the cardinals could and could not eat, to avoid hidden messages not only in food but also in napkins (a sort of pizzini ante litteram pizzini). If, historically, food has always represented a potential risk, eating in the canteen remains one of the contexts in which negotiations between the cardinals may take place. Just think of the film released in 2024, Conclavewhere almost all dialogues do not take place in the electoral classrooms, but in the canteen. The noisy meals contrast with the actual conclave, almost completely silent. Yet, even around the ceremonial silence, a large amount of communication develops, most of which takes place with and through food. Although it cannot be assumed that the film faithfully represents what happens behind closed doors, it is undoubtedly true that in the papal gastronomic culture – as in culture more generally – what you eat, how you eat and with who you eat it is going long.

ConclaveEdward Berger’s film. With, among others, Ralph Fiennes and Stanley Tucci.

The origins of the rules to the conclave

The code of secrecy of the conclave dates back to 1274, when Pope Gregory X established the rules that still today, in part, dictate the way in which the papal elections take place. Apart from the rigid protocol and food restrictions, The meals that “chef” runs away, some time later, describes in his book seem abundant and balanced, and include salad, fruit, salami, wine and fresh water. In the same way, Scappi also tells comfortable accommodations for cardinals. Everyone had their wide cell, decorated with silk and tastefully furnished, with a bed, a table, a attack, two stools, a night vase and a locked jar, among other objects. According to Scappi, serving in a Renaissance papal conclave was not an unpleasant job, as long as we were not concerned with constant surveillance, which a little fear inspired him.

The World Day of the Poor, which began in 2017 and wanted by Pope Francis, is celebrated every year on the third Sunday of November. The 2024 edition, the Pope’s eighth and last, was celebrated on Sunday 17 November.

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Today as then, the “same” rules at the table

The rules of the late Pope Gregory X included the insulation of the conclave – a rule still in force today – and the rationing of the food of the cardinals. After three days without consent, the cardinals received only one meal a day; After eight days, only bread and water. To say: you see to give you a move. In the middle of the 1300s, these rules were loosened by Clemente VI, which allowed meals of three courses made up of soup; a main dish based on fish, meat or eggs; And a dessert, which could include cheese or fruit. Although the rationing has not lasted, today a strict control over the conclaves remains, at the table as in the spaces shared inside the Vatican walls.

Some dishes prohibited during the previous conclaves were the ravioli and the chicken, to prevent them from being stuffed with a message.

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Waiting for the new Pope

Returning to today, the food of the cardinals, as anticipated, will remain frugal and prepared according to a rigid protocol and close surveillance. The modern Catholic Church – especially thanks to the guidance of Pope Francis – hopes to communicate a simple and genuine image. Concerns about the possibility that food (whole chickens, in particular, like the one that is also served in the film Conclave) may contain real secret messages have vanished. But, while the Vatican is patrolled in search of electronic devices hidden in preparation for the next conclave – what made impossible for the extinguishing of the repeaters on the whole area -, the cardinals will personally prepare to venture for Rome post election, before returning to their respective dioceses, perhaps focusing in one of the taverns of the city and, perhaps, wondering if they will be their last dinner after the new pope.