Categories: Opinion

Where to eat in Florence: 10 trattorias and osterias in the Tuscan capital

Where to eat in Florence: 10 trattorias and osterias in the Tuscan capital

Capital and largest city of the fascinating region of Tuscany, Florence , in Italy, is one of my favorite cities in the world. Impossible not to be amazed by this one that is the cradle of the Italian Renaissance where, through charming alleys, we come across beautiful cathedrals and historic palazzos.

City of the arts – works by Michelangelo, Da Vinci, Botticelli and Donatello coexist here – and of the popes – several leaders of the Catholic Church were born nearby -, Florence is also where trattorias It is osterias come together to always leave us with a taste of “I want more”.

Everything in Florence inspires and breathes art, and food plays a key role in this story. Without the bistecca alla fiorentina and the soup ribollita typically Tuscan recipes, Florence would hardly have its magic guaranteed.

Below, I highlight a selection of 10 houses I recommend in the Italian city . It’s a mix between trattorias , osterias and until mouths , locations situated underneath historic palazzos that were used to store meats, ham, salamis and, above all, wines. They turned into restaurants and today serve traditional Florentine dishes.

Among the tips of houses frequented by the residents themselves and others that are worth visiting even with queues of tourists at the door, write down the names, make reservations (highly recommended) and enjoy yourself next to a glass of wine.

buca lapi

Founded in the 1880s, the buca lapi it is considered the oldest restaurant in all of Florence. The hall with a rounded ceiling and few tables is an invitation to more than a century of history.

The kitchen is visible to our eyes and the walls have posters that go back to the past of the place – if we look closely we will see a Brazilian flag on the ceiling! The house is even located in the cellars of Palazzo Antinori, a beautiful Renaissance palace.

One of the best known restaurants in the city, here we experience the flavors of ancient Tuscan cuisine. Despite several delicacies, the most talked about dish on the menu is the bistecca alla fiorentina – cooked on charcoal and drizzled with extra virgin olive oil. The request is a true cult to the local tradition.

Buca Lapi: Via del Trebbio,1/R – Palazzo Antinori, Florence, Italy

buca mario

Dating back to 1886, the buca mario repeats some steps of Buca Lapi. Also located in the cellars of a palazzo, the Niccolini, from the 16th century, the flavors of traditional Florence are once again staged in this historic house.

Today run by the Pasquetti family, the restaurant welcomes us with a large wooden display case containing fresh and colorful vegetables. According to the house, the showcase is there to evoke aromas of the Florentine hills. In addition to the salon, a private room from the 16th century is still there as a refuge for those who want more privacy.

From the kitchen come preparations passed down from generation to generation: ham, salami, finocchiona, pecorino, apple and honey can whet your appetite.

Papardelle and the typical ribollita bread soup are also among the options, but the winner again is the bistecca alla fiorentina with its thick cut, grilled and rare, as it should be.

Buca Mario: Piazza Ottaviani 16/R – Florence, Italy

Trattoria Cammillo

It is one of the city’s institutions, one of those restaurants that everyone knows and that you should try a table on a trip to Florence. Since the mid-1940s, it has been serving Florentine cuisine in a cozy atmosphere.

White tablecloths and plates with the local logo transport us to a true Italian experience marked by a menu that uses seasonal ingredients to compose pastas, meats and risottos.

I recommend the prosciutto to open the paths, follow with the papardelle and finish with the tiramisu. One of the key dishes is ribollita, a traditional soup with layers of vegetables, beans and super appetizing stale bread.

But beware: as in the houses above, there is usually high demand and queues. Get ready and have a typical meal next to the Arno river.

Trattoria Cammillo: Borgo San Jacopo, 57/R – Florence, Italy

La Giostra

In 1700, the hidden spot where the La Giostra it was the winter depot for a carousel that operated in Piazza dei Ciompi, not far from the restaurant. So the name is no coincidence: “giostra”, in Italian, directly translates to “carousel”.

In the historic center of Florence, between the Duomo and Piazza Santa Croce, the house founded in 1992 by Dimitri Habsburg-Lorraine has around 16 tables and serves traditional Tuscan cuisine with a certain amount of refinement.

To begin with, carpaccio, prosciutto and stracciatella are not lacking among the first mouthfuls. The “primi piatti” are pasta like ravioli, pappardelle, tagliatelle and an interesting carbonara with asparagus, my choice.

Among the “secondi piatti”, the 1.5 kg bistecca alla fiorentina are on the menu.

La Giostra: Borgo Pinti, 12/R – Florence, Italy

Buca dell’Orafo

right next to Ponte Vecchio which crosses the Arno River, the Buca dell’Orafo it’s another one of the restaurants tucked away on the lower floors of a historic building. The house gains an extra charm for being very small, with a maximum capacity of up to 30 people.

Simple, traditional food is served on a menu that changes weekly, including stews and typical pastas. The fried artichoke is one of the most talked about – and ordered – dishes in the area. Pork loin with potatoes and rump escalope with pecorino and flavored oil may also be among the options offered.

It is recommended to make a reservation or stay outside before opening times to be guaranteed a table.

Buca dell’Orafo: Via dei Girolami, 28/R – Florence, Italy.


Right in front of market of Sant’Ambrogio O L’Ortone proposes revisited Tuscan cuisine, adding more contemporary touches than the other recommendations on this list.

Due to the seasonality of the menu, which focuses on traditional preparations while using creativity, the house has a distinction Bib Gourmand of Michelin guide which attests to the balance between quality and price.

The bread and pasta are made in-house, and the meat comes from a trusted butcher in the market across the street. On my last visit, I ordered homemade spaghetti with tomato sauce and burrata cream.

It’s hard not to want to sit at one of the tables for a meal – but if that’s the case, a short stop for a charcuterie board and a glass of wine at the counter also gives you a taste of the place. Outside tables are open in the summer, while the two floors of the house are occupied in the winter.

L’Ortone: Piazza Lorenzo Ghiberti, 87/R – Florence, Italy

Alla Vecchia Bettola

On the south side of the Arno River, the Alla Vecchia Bettola it is away from the most touristic center of Florence and, for this very reason, is mostly frequented by locals.

Opened in the late 1970s, the restaurant has a very authentic feel. To begin with, the tables are shared, that is, we sit next to strangers – a fun mission around a common goal: to experience real Tuscan food, without too many maneuvers.

The warm atmosphere is even better with traditional and typical dishes from the region. In addition to the hearty steak, the champion of praise is the penne alla bettola, which has tomato, peperoncino, vodka and cream.

The menu changes daily and the Chianti wine is left on the table to be had as much as you like for less than five euros.

Alla Vecchia Bettola: Viale Vasco Pratolini, 5/3/7 – Florence, Italy

Trattoria Lo Stracotto

In the heart of the historic center, behind the Basilica di San Lorenzo, the Lo Stracotto is a family trattoria founded in 2010 by two cousins ​​from the teachings of their parents and grandparents.

Traditional Tuscan cuisine can be enjoyed at the house, which serves, of course, the steak and ribollita soup, but also homemade lasagna, pork and veal loin and trippa alla fiorentina.

Trattoria Lo Stracotto: Piazza di Madonna degli Aldobrandini, 17 – Florence, Italy

Trattoria 13 Gobbi

One of the most popular trattorias in Florence, the 13 Gobbi is present on the list of most visitors who come to the Tuscan capital. Yes, it has a more tourist footprint, but it still offers us a pleasant meal.

Within walking distance of some of the city’s most popular hotels, the restaurant is on a narrow street with high walls and a room full of hanging objects.

The classic ribollita and the Fiorentina steak are among the main options, but the rigatoni and pappa al pomodoro also deserve a special place.

Trattoria 13 Gobbi: Via del Porcellana, 9/R – Florence, Italy

L’Osteria di Giovanni

Nevertheless, the L’osteria di Giovanni it has a simple and friendly decoration that invites us to enter the atmosphere of a typical Italian family restaurant. It’s one of those traditional osterias, without a lot of daydreaming.

Obviously there is no lack of the more conventional options in Florence, such as ribollita and steak, but there are also other interesting options, such as fried zucchini flowers, tortellini stuffed with pear and pecorino with leek sauce. Don’t forget the pieces of fried dough at the beginning of the meal to get the mood going.

It is worth mentioning that the house also has tables arranged in an old basement.

L’Osteria di Giovanni: Via del Moro, 22 – Florence, Italy

Source: CNN Brasil