It is said Langhe and for a gourmet it becomes automatic to think about Alba White Trufflenot necessarily necessary at the table but an authentic “disease” for gourmets (not only Italians, indeed). Ready to spend a lot of money to enjoy it on site (better) or at home from the official start of the season, marked by Alba International Fair That it started on October 12th and ended on December 8th. The good news for fans: after complicated years, the climatic conditions so far have been textbook: scattered and abundant rain, the right heat at the right time. Finally, there is no shortage of fine tuber, it has a high quality and a very high aroma. The first quotes? At least 3,000 euros per kg. Furthermore, we are at the beginning of the season and they will easily go up. But thinking about the sad 2022 when the price was around 7,000 euros per kg, it is almost convenient.
The mushrooms of the Langhe
But we came here, first and foremost, to enjoy a corner of Piedmont – between the provinces of Asti and Cuneo – which in our opinion offers the best between mid-October and the end of November. Often breathtaking views, with hills and vineyards alternating with Savoy castles and historic villages. All with some of the most evocative resorts in Italy.
It is no coincidence that the Langhe, together with Roero and Monferrato, have become part of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 2014. Throughout the world they are considered a food and wine paradise for the cellars and restaurants which largely highlight local products: meat (beef above all) and cured meats such as raw Bra sausageprotected by Slow Food (which is at home here), the cheeses (Murazzano And Robiola from Roccaveranoin Monferrato, both DOP) and the Round hazelnut which is used in many preparations, not just desserts.
And then i mushroomsnow in the best period for harvesting, paying the utmost attention to their edibility – therefore they should always be checked by the nearest mycological inspectorates – and eating them without exaggerating. But where to eat mushrooms in the Langhe?
Poor and versatile food
Our guide to the area – where he was born and also appreciated by colleagues – is Davide Palludachef-owner of the starred restaurant At the Enoteca a Canale. Master of dishes with White Truffle but also very good with those based on mushrooms.
Chanterelles, porcini mushrooms and eggs first and foremost. «In the past, for the “Langaroli” they have always been the food par excellence: poor because it was easily found and stocked up, rich because of its versatility. And the tradition remains: with us the large mushrooms are fried, the small and healthy ones end up in oil while the medium ones are perfect for sauces and stews but also to enhance the classic risotto or the inevitable tajarin. The important thing is to use them freshbecause they are lighter regardless of the type of preparation. And we need to take advantage of an ideal season like this: there are many and they are delicious” explains Palluda.
Where to eat mushrooms (and more): our favorite restaurants
Together with Canale’s chef we selected a group of venues where to eat mushrooms in the Langhe and where local recipes are certainties: Osteria Veglio to La Morra (try the mushroom and potato ravioli and Parmigiano Reggiano fondue), TBelvedere restaurant to Monteu Roero (with an all-mushroom menu from 43 euros), The Ladybug to Serravalle Langhe (Tagliolini with porcini mushrooms), Osteria Lalibera to Sunrise (Veal musket with porcini mushrooms), Osteria Battaglino to Dogliani (Alpine pasture fondue and porcini mushrooms).
The right wine for dishes like these? Three ideas: a Arneis aged (ideally four-five years), a classic Barberaa Timorasso not young so as not to feel the fruity note which would be invasive on the mushrooms. Now a recipe with porcini mushrooms by Davide Palluda: simple, achievable in the home kitchen but with a signature touch that makes the difference.
Roasted porcini mushrooms, vegetable stock and anise: the recipe by chef Davide Palluda
Ingredients for four people: 800 g of firm porcini mushrooms, 500 g of carrots, 500 g of celeriac, 500 g of red onions, 250 g of salsify root, 250 g of Jerusalem artichoke, 250 g of parsley root, 250 g of aubergines, 2 tablespoons of tomato paste, extra virgin olive oil, salt, white pepper, aromatic herbs (sage, parsley, bay leaf, oregano, thyme and marjoram), anise powder.
Preparation: Carefully wash the vegetables without peeling them, cut them into strips with the mandolin and brown them in the oven with a little extra virgin olive oil at 170 degrees until they turn brown: be careful not to burn them because they would be excessively bitter. Place the vegetables, tomato paste and herbs in a large pot and cover with cold water, bring to the boil and skim continuously to remove impurities. Cook gently until reduced by 2/3 then filter through a cloth and bring the sauce obtained to the desired consistency, adjusting it with salt and white pepper. Leave to rest in the refrigerator overnight and remove excess fat. Roast the porcini mushrooms – after having cleaned them well and rinsed – in extra virgin olive oil until they are golden and crunchy, add salt. Slice other porcini mushrooms with a truffle cutter. Place the vegetable stock, the roasted porcini mushrooms and the slices of raw mushroom on the plate. Salt, sprinkle with star anise powder. Serve a slice of toasted bread separately for the (dutiful) slipper.
Source: Vanity Fair
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