Changed address, proposal, concept. It changed the experience and the name a little too, but the creativity, the essence, the service and the personality of the chef Pedro Artagão remain in their entirety in their new restaurant, the Iraja Gastro, which opened its doors in September on Dias Ferreira, the most popular street in Leblon, in the Rio de Janeiro.
The chef makes a point of exalting and highlighting that the new “son” is the most authorial of his group, which adds up to seven other establishments in the city – two of them on the same street and the other two that only operate for delivery.
Artagão, who for 11 years commanded Irajá on Rua Conde de Irajá, in Botafogo, decided to close it during the pandemic. Four months ago he opened his new house, which bears a little of the name of the old one, it’s obvious, but believe me: it’s a totally different restaurant.
“This new moment in Irajá represents my current phase, in which I present menus of steps that I created based on a lot of study over the years. They are new inputs, flavors, creations, and it has been very nice and gratifying to receive such positive feedback from the public. We managed to get through this cruel pandemic without laying off any employees (today we have more than 300 in the group’s eight restaurants), and we’re just growing. An excellent phase for the Irajá Group, and that makes me very happy and fulfilled”, emphasizes Artagão to CNN Travel & Gastronomy.
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The experience
More intimate and with only 22 seats inside – which must be reserved in advance -, Irajá Gastrô wants to provide a new customer experience. From the kitchen to the lounge (integrated in the same environment) menus of three, five and eight stages are available – all with the option of harmonizing. Brazilian labels predominate, with the proposal to enhance the national. Classic wines are also found, from regions and wineries best known to the public.
In the shorter option, the customer chooses the starter, main course and dessert (R$240). In the second, you choose all three and the chef is in charge of creating two other surprises that will complete the meal (R$260).
In the eight-phase event, the experience is even more different: a dinner entirely chosen by Artagão and his team. Customers give advance notice of their tastes and what they can’t in these dishes, so that the experience is as pleasant as possible (R$ 380). Despite the established numbers of stages, there are always courtesies and surprises at night.
What is served?
Among the starter options are the sustainable heart of palm millecrepe, with a Thai broad bean salad; oyster vichyssoise with cauliflower, cucumber and roe mousseline; salmon loin with truffles, passion fruit and quinoa; steak tartare wagyu 2 sauces, fried in lard, lettuce cups; and the scallops, grilled coral, horseradish cream.
Highlight for the caprese, which arrives in its eighth version, counting since the first by the chef, which was part of the inauguration of Irajá de Botafogo, ten years ago. This time it comes in a mix of tomatoes, goat cheese and buffalo chicken.
As for main dishes, the options are: udon pasta, black mushroom, cardoncello and eggplant; milk chicken 3 servings: breast, truffle and foie gras, albufera sauce / grilled thigh with seed risotto / wing salpicão with celery and truffles; roasted octopus, raw ham bouillon, mashed potatoes, roasted peppers, red olives; fish of the day, cassava cream, beurre cancalesse, seasonal vegetables, among others.
Of course, the desserts – so famous by the chef – are also highlighted. The original brigadeiro cake (himself, in a new version); gateau marjolaine (pistachio, nutella, hazelnut); Milharal (cornmeal cake, green corn ice cream, popcorn powder, dulce de leche); and passion fruit (passion fruit mousse & sorbet, white chocolate) are among the suggestions.
The place
Irajá Gastrô is at the same address as the former Quadrucci, a Rio restaurant that closed its doors during the pandemic. Artagão’s new house was completely renovated and in no way resembles the old space.
Light, pleasant atmosphere, with very subtle background music. The service draws attention: everyone makes a point of making sure that your night is going as planned. Some employees came from other restaurants in the group, ensuring the essence and quality in everything that is served – and how it is served.
In addition to the lounge, there is also the option of having a drink and a snack on the charming terrace, which has 20 seats. A la carte options include the juicy lucy burger, a foie gras-stuffed burger; jamon croqueta, creamy, stuffed with toasted beef marrow; shrimp roll, golden brioche with shrimp stuffing in rosé sauce & fresh salad, among others.
The Rio gastronomic route has certainly won another darling. It’s worth getting to know (and personally greeting the chef, who is always there!).
Reference: CNN Brasil