«A meal without wine is like a day without the sun“. He said it 230 years ago (!) Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, politician but above all French gastronome, made history for “The physiology of taste”, a work that founds the figure of the intellectual gastronome and that will exert an extraordinary influence on subsequent culinary literature. With all respect (oh my God …) for teetotalers and remembering the provocation of Gualtiero Marchesi (“The perfect drink to combine with food is water and not wine” he repeated every other day, among other things driving the Albereta in Franciacorta.
Having said that, the pleasure of combining wine with a dish or food remains remarkable and involves – according to the latest research – six out of ten Italians. Do they know how to drink? This is another matter. Because, apart from the freedom of thought and taste (which, however, sometimes leads to insane results), it is evident that most of the fans on the one hand do not go beyond traditional combinations, which are not wrong at the start but often limit the enjoyment. . And on the other they are a little slave to the trends of the moment: one year only the Etna Rosso is drunk, the following year the anforato wine, the next the Verdicchio.
Here too nothing condemnable, fashions have always existed. But we felt like having fun, leaving the usual routes to go further or paradoxically go back. Because novelties are not necessarily better than classicism. We asked for help, not surprisingly, from three of us the best sommeliers of Italian catering: Beppe Palmieri (Osteria Francescana, Modena), Vincenzo Donatiello (Piazza Duomo, Alba) e Gianni Sinesi (Reale, Castel di Sangro). Young in age – only Palmieri is over 40, the others are under 40 – but with great experience in the field, especially with an innovative vision that starts from respect for the history of wine, without being blocked by it. The right people to break down preventions, wrong habits, repetitions in pairing with food. To them the word (in the gallery), to us only the addition of one of the most beautiful phrases of the immense Gino Veronelli, the intellectual who invented food and wine criticism in Italy and taught the winemakers a lot of things: “Life is too short to drink bad wines”. Here it is
In the gallery the 10 commonplaces to dispel