Soft and crunchy. Savory and sweet. Gold. Funny. The Roman artichoke called «mammola” The “cimaroloIt has no thorns. Hard, closed like a fist and round, it comes from the area of the Roman coast between Cerveteri and Ladispoli, with the tip of the triangle touching Campagnano.
It was with the agrarian reform of the 1950s and 1960s that those lands, 8800 hectares expropriated from the land by Castello Odescalchi on the sea, were assigned to sharecroppers and shepherds from Marche and Abruzzo.
The artichoke conquers its areas and the first was born in Ladispoli in 1950 “Roman artichoke festival”.
One of his best known preparations, the artichoke alla giudia, a symbol of Judeo-Roman cuisine and the Roman Ghetto, also has a decidedly ancient history. Already in recipe books of the second century there is mention of the recipe, which perhaps not the same but very similar, can be tried in the restaurants around Portico d’Ottavia. They are restaurants where traditional Roman cuisine follows the rules of Kasherut, with always interesting results.
WHERE TO EAT IT
Al Bella Carne Restaurant for example the owner Alberto Ouazana, together with the chef Paolo de Bonis,, for lunch they do not skimp on suggestions, explanations and anecdotes, very useful for those approaching the kitchen Kosher. The dried meat of beef replaces pork until you regret the bacon in the carbonara, where however you miss the pecorino. The artichoke alla giudia dominates among the appetizers, together with tanning, couples e anchovies with endive; among the first courses, in addition to those typical of Roman cuisine, the tonnarelli with stewed artichokes and dried meat and various types of cous cous; the main courses of entrails such as the coratella with artichokes, the straw hunter or the fried pecoraro (brain, lamb, zucchini and artichokes) as well as all that of beef, chicken, veal and lamb that can be grilled. Among the typical sweets the pizzarelle and the mixture of Jewish sweets.
The restaurant by Sora Margherita it is decorated with vintage posters and has few tables: for this reason it adopts a two-shift schedule for dinner, but for lunch it is enough to book. Born in 1927 and it is a characteristic and out of time place, where you can taste the typical dishes of the Roman tradition such as artichokes alla giudia, hand made fettuccine and agnolotti, courgette tanning and ricotta and sour cherries cake; the menu strictly follows the seasonal cadences and, weekly, those of the Roman tradition: Thursday gnocchi, Saturday tripe.
The Tavern of the Ghetto it has a simple dining room with brick arches and the menu offers everything allowed by the Judeo-Roman tradition: felafel, humus, the inevitable artichoke alla giudia for appetizers; cous cous, Jewish soup, tagliatelle, fettuccine and lasagna first; fish and meat second course, with the Jewish goulash or lamb’s offal with artichokes in the foreground.
Grandma Betta it is an intimate place, with ancient frescoed walls; observes the Kasherut so much that it has two separate menus, one for meat and one for fish or cheese; the fries are light and serve the babaganoush, also known as aubergine caviar, a Middle Eastern sauce based on eggplant purée seasoned with oil, salt and pepper and flavored with lemon juice, garlic and tahina (sesame seed cream). All sprinkled with chopped fresh mint leaves.
All’Ancient Boccione oven you can find the ricotta and sour cherries tart, the hot bruscolini (pumpkin seeds) and the Beridde’s pizza, while atAncient Urbani oven, open since 1927, the white pizza by the slice is truly special; and to allow the consumption of the now famous “pizza e mortazza“, The pizza with mortadella so dear to the Romans, he bakes it in two separate rooms. Another specialty is the Roman red, classic very low and crunchy red pizza topped with tomato and oregano, and the Ossi, typical Jewish sandwiches to fill.
DolceRoma it is probably the only Austrian pastry shop in the capital; present since 1988, you can taste an excellent Sacher, a strudel, i drummer o buy a pretzel, i pot or buttermilk.
THE RECIPE OF THE ARTICHOKE TO THE JUDGES
I cimaroli romaneschi: the flower head must be firm to the touch, without spots and with the leaves tightly closed, the stem large and hard, without yellow parts and with green leaves. The “capatura»Of the artichoke, that is the cleaning: the first green and hard leaves must be removed, up to the yellow-pink ones at the base; the outer bark of the stem must be removed.
Before cooking they must be beaten against each other to spread the leaves; then seasoned with salt and pepper. At this point, tradition requires that the artichokes be fried in abundant extra virgin olive oil, but many restaurateurs use the lightest seed oil. However, to fry them they must be immersed in hot oil (useful toothpick test, look in the gallery) for about 10 minutes, then they must be taken out and drained. At this point the artichoke must rest for about 15 minutes, then the leaves must be spread with a fork until they are completely open, and then re-immerse in the boiling oil, again for 3 or 4 minutes, pressing them down to make them open further. And to make them even more crunchy there is a makeup.
Follow all the steps in the gallery above
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