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Cultured diamonds: what are they (and why do we like them)? Whoever turned them into must-haves explains it to us

Cultured diamonds: what they are? They are diamonds, just like natural ones, those that are extracted from mines. They have the exact same characteristics of purity and all the credentials to pass the 4C exam with flying colors (cut, color, carat, clarity) which allows you to obtain certifications at an international level. Only in one thing are they very different: those lab they are sustainable. In fact, their environmental and social impact does not harm the environment or people.

«What nature does in millions of years can be done in the laboratory in a few weeks» explain Fiammetta Cicogna and Manuela Picciotto of Poised and Roberto Dibenedetto, founder of Nine25who have many arrows to their bow to delve into the subject.

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The clarity of diamonds? It can also be replicated in the laboratory.


Have you ever seen land occupied by mines? It is a huge and impressive hole in the Earth which, if not made according to strict and precise rules, can harm nature which is deprived of important biodiversity. But that’s not all: imagine the men who get ready to work in these places every day: how important is safety in certain areas? Very much, but sometimes, unfortunately, it is not guaranteed to all those who work there.

These just mentioned are just two of the reasons why sustainability, when it comes to diamonds, it is a very hot and current topic.

A Russian mine.

Diamonds and more: all the engagement rings of the royal family

Brilliant, certainly. But also sapphires – the favorites – very rare rubies and impressive emeralds: from Diana to Camilla, from Kate to Meghan, in the British royal family the engagement rings are one more beautiful and original than the other. And precious


But then, when it comes to lab-grown diamonds what exactly is meant? THE cultured diamonds they are precious gems that are born in the laboratory according to the principle of circularity. In fact, simple things are enough splinters – obviously high purity choices – to start production. These minimal parts of stone become seeds which are subjected to high temperatures. They then remain there, in incubation for at least four weeks: the time necessary to see them grow as in nature. After a month in this special oven, the diamonds are therefore ready to be worked, cut and polished exactly as it happens with those extracted.


Margaret, the jewel collector

When it comes to jewels, the princess had a personal style, which moved from the ancient to the contemporary. Her casket, crammed full of diamonds, almost all ended up at auction in 2016, yielding over 10 million euros to the heirs. To pay back taxes, they said


Can you tell the difference between natural and synthetic ones? The answer is no”.

This innovative technology already has a long history behind it: people have been dreaming of creating a gem in the laboratory since the 19th century, but it was only in the 1950s in America that one of the first (almost) successful experiments came close. Only recently have the results been optimal and comparable, in all respects, to gems born from a process of a geological nature.

An invention capable of revolutionizing the market so much that DeBeersthe world’s leading diamond mining and trading company since 1988, is also the majority shareholder of Element sixlaboratory that creates synthetic diamonds and the line of jewels Lightboxes created in the laboratory. And Leonardo DiCaprio, who already starred in the 2006 film Blood Diamond, has become an investor in a large production company, the Diamond Foundry, which is about to open an important site in Spain, covering 1,000 hectares, with the aim of becoming the largest European supplier of lab-grown diamonds. Together with them, many others have already decided to switch to the sustainable side of diamonds, since LVMH groupwhich bought a factory in Israel until Pandora And Morellatoto name a few.

What if the engagement ring was vintage?

Choose a engagement rings from another era is becoming an increasingly strong trend. The royals have always handed down the family jewels and many celebs have said “yes” wearing creations from the past. We went to talk to a true expert in the sector who told us what is changing and which models are the most sought after. And that he also shared a very romantic love story with us…


An ethical choice also shared by Poisedthe Italian jewelry brand, born in 2019, from the vision of Fiammetta Cicogna and Manuela Picciotto. We meet them on the occasion of the launch of the capsule collection created together with Robert Dibenedettofounder of the Milanese brand of jewels handcrafted in silver Nine25.

Fiammetta Cicogna in one of the shots of the Inbilico w/Nove25 capsule.


We begin by chatting with Fiammetta Cicogna and we ask her, model, actress and TV presenter, how the idea of ​​trying her hand at the world of laboratory diamonds came about.
«I never thought of making jewellery, this adventure was born by chance when I came across an article on the internet which talked about lab-grown diamonds and I literally fell in love with this technology: I found it human. I grew up in Africa and in the family we have always been sensitive to the subject of mines. Manuela, my partner, and I were friends and with her, who has a background in jewelry design, we thought we’d give it a try. So in 2019 we decided to launch this project, just as I was carrying out another one… I was pregnant with my daughters! Then, let’s say that 2020 has given us the opportunity to deepen the topic even further (she says ironically, thinking back to the blockage caused by the pandemic) ».

Thus was born Inbilico: a jewelry brand where the sustainable diamond is the real protagonist.
«Yes, everything revolves around them, stones created with an incredible and very sweet technology. Thanks to these ovens that replicate the strength of the earth, it is possible to grow a diamond chip of one carat a week».

But, let’s get to the meeting that gave birth to the Inbilico w/Nove25 capsules. How did you meet?
Roberto Dibenedetto: «Not long ago, in September. We were at the Vicenza Oro fair, we met and a friendship was born immediately, together with this project. As Nine25, we were evaluating whether to go in the direction of cultivated diamonds and, when Fiammetta and Manuela told us more about their story, we immediately decided to collaborate. The international market is already ahead on this type of stone, in Italy some are still sceptical. I myself was initially hesitant but then, studying the subject and realizing that there is no difference between natural and cultivated diamonds, I understood that this is the way to go. Both for an environmental discourse and for human sustainability».
Fiammetta Cicogna: «This capsule is our summer hit: we are the featuring of the jewels».

One of the Inbilico w/Nove25 sustainable diamond earrings.


Are customers ready for this evolution in the world of stones?
Fiammetta Cicogna: «Young people immediately understood its human and environmental value. They really love the idea of ​​cultured diamonds (which also have a more affordable price). Especially foreigners, especially in Northern Europe, who have always been attentive to green issues. More difficult, perhaps, to convince jewelers, used to dealing with natural stones. It takes culture, storytelling, but once the process of creating stone grown in the laboratory has been explained, together with its pros, the customer naturally chooses it».

For the capsules Free to Shine you focused on the theme of the snake, what does it represent for you?
Roberto Dibenedetto: «We wanted to create jewels that were the fusion of our brands. They have always focused on the creation of a new concept of earrings, capable of dressing the ear in a different way. We, like Nine25we have included the know-how of special silver manufacturing».
Fiammetta Cicogna: «For us, the snake is an embrace, a tribal message, it is the village, it is being together».

Earring in 925 silver with polished rhodium plating and 3 1pt lab-grown diamonds, Inbilico w/Nove25 (€ 128).

Earring in 925 silver with polished rhodium plating and 7 1pt lab-grown diamonds, Inbilico w/Nove25 (€ 198).

Earring in 925 silver with polished rhodium plating and 23 1pt lab-grown diamonds, Inbilico w/ Nove25 (€ 458).

A refined and sophisticated collection consisting of three earrings completely made in Italy and full of personality, illuminated by cultivated diamonds, chosen not to compromise the environment and people.

Jewels to wear with pride, to be free to shine. Always.

Source: Vanity Fair

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