For those who are in Colonia del Sacramento about 70 kilometers away, is Carmelo. With approximately 16,800 inhabitants, this small city on the banks of the Río de la Plata in Uruguay is known for its wineries, both historic and boutique, which are located very close to each other. This allows you to visit two or three of them in the same day. In fact, if you have aspirations of cycling through vineyards, this is the ideal place.
Tourism is concentrated in rural areas . The region offers resorts, boat trips on the Rio da Prata and horseback riding through the countryside. However, it is the wine that attracts most tourists to the region, and therefore, the accommodation and gastronomy tips are mostly located at the wineries.
Among the wineries open to visitors, the highlights are Irurtia, Zubizarreta, Fripp, Narbona, Campotinto, Cordano, El Legado, El Quinton and the brand new Pueblo Tannat. For those who prefer to spend two days in Carmelo, I have selected four delightful visits that you can enjoy at your leisure.
Narbona Wine & Lodge
Narbona as we know it today is a relatively recent project that has helped solidify Carmel as a region prone to wine tourism . Although it received mostly Argentines when it opened its doors to visitors back in 2010, Brazilians currently make up the winery’s largest audience. The change in the profile of visitors has also influenced the profile of the wines, since almost all of the production is sold and consumed there, as well as in other projects that carry the Narbona brand, in Uruguay and in Miami in the United States.
The Narbona brand has a strong visual appeal. The winery’s architectural details combine rustic and colonial Uruguayan elements with touches of the south of France (where the name Narbona comes from), creating an elegant and cozy environment with an air of tradition. From the winery’s facilities to the restaurant and accommodations, everything about the Carmelo property is extremely well-kept.
In fact, staying at Narbona is an attraction in itself. Each room is unique in its decor and perfect for those who want to end the night with a well-harmonized dinner at the winery’s restaurant or start the day with a delicious breakfast. The price of accommodation varies from 275 to 500 dollars (around R$1,512 to R$2,750, respectively), depending on the time of year.
Narbona’s restaurant, in addition to being excellent, is stocked with products that carry the company’s own brand. Today, Narbona also produces bread, pasta, jams, cheeses, organic vegetables, granola, and honey, which is their most famous product after wine, of course. The dulce de leche, in fact, competes with the brand’s yogurt for the most popular product among visitors. The establishment is open daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
The tour of the area wine production and a tasting in the old wine cellar, built in 1909, where cheeses are also aged and cured, are a must when visiting Narbona. Tastings take place from Wednesday to Sunday and include a tour of the winery, three wines and cheeses produced in-house, for approximately R$250.
Narbona Wine Lodge: Ruta 21, km 268, Carmelo, UY / Tel.: (+598) 4540 4778 / Reservations via website
Zubizarreta Winery
For those looking for an experience in a place with a rich history and long tradition of winemaking, the Zubizarreta family has been producing wines since 1957 and currently has two generations working together in a refreshing time for their wine production. Zubizarreta was the first winery in Carmelo to obtain the sustainable viticulture seal.
Although the production of fine wines is recent, Zubizarreta has long produced wines in five-liter bottles. The new high-end line has surprised with its quality: in addition to three reds, there is also the first Albariño (a white grape that is popular in Uruguay) produced in the region. The winery offers three types of tastings that can be booked and led by the attentive Isabela Zubizarreta.
I recommend the premium tasting, which includes the best wines produced there, accompanied by a cheese, cold cuts and bread board. The property also houses Casa de Aitona, a 20th-century building that was restored in 2001 and where you can stay. This idyllic, rural location is perfect for those seeking a peaceful getaway, and offers breakfast and a paired lunch option.
Zubizarreta Winery: Camino Juan de San Martín y Ruta 21, km. 241/ Reservations by phone: (+598) 4542 3080
The Legacy
Its founder, Bernardo Marzuca did not inherit the winery, but built it with his family and later bought back the land that once belonged to his father. When we enter El Legado, it seems like it has always been there, but in fact it has only been there for a little over 10 years. Even so, it already carries so much history. It was common to hear from tourists who passed through Carmelo: “I have a friend who has a winery there.” And I would answer: “Oh, yes, it’s Bernardo, isn’t it?”
Producing a tannat, a syrah and a blend of tannat and syrah, as well as, later, a viognier, it was not only the excellence of its wines that made El Legado famous — although I can say that it has one of the best syrahs in the country — but also the friendliness of its owner and his passion for the winery, which he introduced to visitors with such enthusiasm.
On May 1, 2022, we received the news of his untimely death, but it seems that his passion for the winery runs in his blood. His partner, Maria Marta Barberis Cassoni, and his three children run the business closely, personally welcoming many of the visitors, just as Bernardo did.
Today, El Legado offers two types of tasting: a tasting of four wines with a cold cuts platter, which costs around R$240, or an experience with a lunch cooked on the grill in its charming space, with the right to taste wines straight from the barrel. It is also possible to stay at the property, with reservations available on the website.
El Legado Winery: Direction: Ramal route 97, Colonia Estrella. | Reservations Tel. (+598) 99 111 493
Tannat Village
The youngest of the region’s wineries, with its tasting facilities set to open in 2024, is a promising new addition. The young vineyard has already produced excellent wines that deserve the attention of visitors.
Today, much of the production is consumed in the property’s own restaurant. In the elegant tasting area, located above the underground cellar, you can enjoy the house wines in peace.
The different tasting packages, which range from 27 to 75 dollars (between R$ 148 and R$ 412, respectively), include wine tasting accompanied by snacks, cold cuts and empanadas, or even a full meal with a main course.
Pueblo Tannat – Winery and Restaurant: Continuation of Dr. Irastorza between Brazil and Muca Carpi. Carmelo – Uruguay |contact +598 92 641 652 | [email protected]
*The texts published by Insiders and Columnists do not necessarily reflect the opinion of CNN Travel & Gastronomy.
About Giuliana Nogueira
Giuliana Nogueira is a Brazilian psychologist, photographer and communications consultant. She is not an oenologist or sommelier, but she is an oenophile, especially passionate about Uruguayan wines and Uruguay. She maintains the Instagram @Instatannatspeaking more about Uruguayan wines than the Uruguayans themselves. Whenever he can, he travels to the land of our neighbors, who know how to welcome people very well.
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