How a perfume is born

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Frederic Malle is a fragrance publisher born into a family of creative minds, his uncle was Louis Malle, famous director of French cinema, his grandfather was one of the founders of Christian Dior’s Parfums, and he became passionate about perfumes becoming one of the greatest “patrons »Of contemporary perfumery. On the occasion of the launch of the new fragrance, Synthetic Jungle by Frédéric Malle Editions de Parfums, born in collaboration with the nose Anne Flipo, she explained the creative process to us.

“Many people during the pandemic continued to wear perfume, there were those who wanted something that would help them close in on themselves, that would give them a sense of cocooning and protection,” he said. Frederic Malle. «But this is an opulent perfume, born before the covid, we started in 2018 and finished in December 2019. It has only been launched now that people want to come back to life, get back to being glamorous. It is a perfume full of energy, daring, richness, something you are looking for now. A new chapter ».

Where do you start from in creating a perfume?
«I get the idea and then I start experimenting with combinations of notes, in the particular case of Synthetic Jungle, Anne and I have had a conversation. We explored all the synthetic note palettes of greens and what the best options were for us. Only synthetic shades of green could help me find what I wanted, ”said Mr Malle. And Anne Flipo added: «We worked with 400 smells in the palette. The green chord is the vegetal body that is in the perfume ».
“Then there is a mix of notes that I call skin fusion, a carnal note, which makes it personal, in the 1970s the cyphre was used to achieve this effect, and so we created a modern version of it, ”continued Malle. «We think of synthetic perfumes as something cheap and the belief is that natural ones are better. The most interesting perfumes were born at the end of the nineteenth century because the first synthetic notes were created. Perfumery as we know it today has many synthetic molecules, born in the laboratory. I am against the imbalance in favor of nature ».

How do you choose the ingredients when composing your formula?
«It is important to have moments of lightness in the creative process and to have a sense of humor. Because I believe that a perfume does not necessarily have to be natural, the synthetic is essential to achieve the desired effect. The paradox that people don’t understand is that to create a natural smell we need synthetic, certain smells are not found in nature. With this fragrance I wanted to remind people that what man creates is as interesting as what is found in nature. There is a difference between what you smell in a perfume and what is part of your environment, a flower has a smell but nobody really wants to smell like a flower, a perfume has to be composed for it to become personal and it has to have a composition that blends with the skin so as to make it feel that it comes from you. It is very difficult for me to make floral perfumes, to personalize them, ”said Mr Malle.

Was there a time when creation took its shape?
Anne Flipo said that “When we added the lily of the valley it became the element that gave the perfume structure, we combined it with the opulent basil, and to give that crunchy sensation we relied on patchouli”.

Who could wear this perfume?
“Anyone, creates an aura around any person,” continues Malle. «It’s fresh and edgy and the kind that makes you feel bewitched by the scent as soon as you wear it. It is a paradoxical perfume not only in the name, not only in how people react when they smell it. It is rich in vegetables, it is perceived as a piece of naturalness, green, and also has a design packaging, it has this double nature in it ».

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