Milan increasingly the capital of food and new trends, in this 2020 born under the sign of environmental and food sustainability. But if it is true that the gastronomic offer has contributed to guaranteeing the Lombard capital the first place in the ranking of The sun 24 hours on the best cities for quality of life 2019 (for the second consecutive year), the Milanese restaurant world has been traveling “beyond the speed limits” of the market for some time: “The offer far exceeds the demand, with an expectation of life of the new premises that does not exceed 18 months and huge restaurants with more empty seats than seated diners, ”he says Valerie M. Visintin, the black man of food criticism, also judge of the television program “Shop Cook & Win!” and author of EAT.MI 2020 Ethical gastronomic guide to Milanese restaurants (Le Boe necklace, Baldini + Castoldi, 18 €).
«Three“ pathologies ”contribute to explaining this phenomenon: the desire to do business in this sector, given the difficulty of growth in others; the need to clean up the “black”, investing it; and then the presence, in big cities more than elsewhere, of organized crime, which accounts for 40% of new openings: 2 out of 5 restaurants in Milan have more or less direct relationships with ‘underground’ realities ».
Add to this the mod-foodie that the most fashionable metropolis holds a baptism: «recent is that of the ‘taquerie’, but ramen restaurants are also rampant as an alternative to classic Japanese, while burgers seem to have run their course. In the shadow of the Madonnina the gastronomic offer is so wide that everything is done to stand out, from the modernization of traditional restaurants to the introduction of new formats ». But the offer is in excess and – as stated in the intro to the volume of Visintin – “Among the (many) closures and (many) new openings, there are about 9,500 restaurants in the city”, an authentic jungle gourmet in which it is difficult to extricate oneself.
«The restaurant business is – mind you – a profession that requires passion and talent, ingredients that not everyone has at their disposal. But it is not enough to love good food to offer an excellent service: you need to take care of your customers, love them as actors do with their audience. And, above all, to be willing to sacrifice: there is no more space for improvisation ».
EAT.MI, the “ethical gastronomic guide to Milanese restaurants”, arises precisely from the need to clarify: “We have created more than 100 reviews, serious but not classic (indeed often cheerful and carefree), which tell of restaurants, but also of people, desires and emotions, in a text composed by several hands with the students of the gastronomic criticism course of the ‘Lorem Ipsum publishing agency. Using the adjective “ethical” to emphasize that the visits to the restaurants took place incognito (and the sponsors did not ingest the choices, limiting themselves to financing the project) “
Click on gallery in alto to discover 10 parameters with which to evaluate a good restaurant. Recalling the first and most effective admonition of the dark-faced critic: «always check the bill, because mistakes are almost never in favor of the customer, and excessive prices are often a status symbol to rank high. But only those who work best can reach the top! ».
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