Pitti Fragranze: the trends of artistic perfumery

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Pitti Fragranze is back. From 17 to 19 September all noses will be pointed at the Stazione Leopolda in Florence to discover the news from the world of international artistic perfumery, but also and above all the trends in the olfactory culture of the future. The first appointment in the sector to take place in person after the outbreak of the pandemic, Pitti Fragranze has focused on a comeback in style, exceeding the expectations of a segment that for obvious reasons has suffered a setback and is therefore full of hopes and desire to restart.

Ralf Schwieger is the special guest of this edition. Undisputed nose and globally recognized talent, author of best-selling perfumes, Ralf Schwieger is the protagonist of a retrospective at the Stazione Leopolda in Florence and an unmissable conversation with the curator Chandler Burr – one of the world’s leading fragrance experts , former perfume critic of the New York Times and artistic director of Pitti Fragranze.

Artistic perfumes, far from being labeled as luxury goods, have now become indispensable accessories in all respects, halfway between olfactory complacency and status symbol. Thanks also to the repositioning of prices downwards, the world of the niche is now affordable by almost anyone: from the “fanatic” of non-commercial creations to those who want to amaze colleagues in the office by wearing a refined composition. Gone are the times of minimalism declined in every olfactory form: whoever crosses the threshold of an artistic perfumery is looking for a complex perfume, with notes that arouse stability, safety, comfort and satisfaction. For this reason, the novelties wink at the “golden age”. Back to the Golden Age with the necessary downsizing and adjustments to the new context. The proposals are opulent but not coarse, the olfactory virtuosities no longer degenerate into mere exercises in style. The packaging is lush but it’s not too much. We are moving towards a cautious and elegant return to the glories of the 1980s and early 1990s. «The search for an evident and long lasting trace makes the consumer lean towards eau de parfum and perfume extracts. We witness the sunset of the cologne. The latter is chosen almost exclusively by consumers over 60, who remain faithful to the nostalgic memory of the scented notes of their adolescence “, explains Maria Elena Iuliano, export manager for several niche brands, expert in foreign markets for the luxury sector and in sensory paths inspired by and connected to works of art.

The concept of limited edition is more alive and driving than ever. Just think of the niche brand Angela Ciampagna Alta Profumeria Artigianale, back at Pitti Fragranze with a novelty that adds even more style to its avant-garde extrait de parfum: an all-gold packaging. A tribute to the ten years of activity of the Italian-Canarian perfume house which resulted in a golden casting on the sculpture cap. Each fragrance in the catalog is in fact surmounted by a reproduction of the twelve-spoke wheel rose window of the basilica of Santa Maria Assunta, co-cathedral of the diocese of Teramo-Atri and cathedral of Atri. Instead, Habanita, the black diamond of the Molinard Maison, the first female oriental in the history of French perfumery, turned 100. The use of vetiver in a female creation, an essence that had previously been the prerogative of only male fragrances, represented a real revolution. Very current, tenacious, complex and seductive, this long-selling perfume is available in a new guise, with a red dress and a mouth drawn in the center of the logo, with pouting lips typical of the 1920s.

Layering is undoubtedly one of the hottest trends, a way of wearing perfumes that has become a real must for many. Those who do not want to risk, overlapping the most disparate fragrances, but instead want to go without fail, can choose a brand with all the perfumes formulated to be used individually or to create surprising combining effects. The art of “layering” is the heart of LABEL Fine Perfumes Toiletries & Waxes, a colorful and “fresh” brand that comes from the Canary Islands and is presented for the first time in Italy. A must for lovers of bespoke perfume. An irresistible unisex combination? A vaporization of Frangipani on the neck, three of Lily & Tangerine on the chest and the last of Oud & Musk on the hips.

“Our advice is to apply the perfume when we are naked: it reacts with the skin and creates wonderful effects, it is an invisible and essential jewel and it is never just an extra detail to add at the end”, they explain Angela Ciampagna and Enrico Maraffino, respectively nose and production manager of Label.

After this gem to combine fragrances like a true “fragrance master”, all that remains is to indulge in the evocative power of designer perfumery.

In the gallery the most interesting news of the brands present at this edition of Pitti Fragranze.

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