Bottega Veneta, the first is very good (by Matthieu Blazy). The best of the fourth day of Milan Fashion Week

It starts from one white tank top and from a pair of jeans. It is that of Workshop Venetian perhaps the most awaited fashion show of the Milan Fashion Week dedicated to the collections for next Autumn / Winter. It is because the sophisticated brand, in the center of the “I want it!” of the most uncompromising fashionistas in the world, she separated last November in a sudden, unexpected and even a little daring way from Daniel Lee, creative director who in a few years has brought the brand back to the Olympus of the fashion system. A divorce that has aroused many speculations, barely appeased by the sudden appointment of his successor, who responds (goes) to the name of the then unknown Matthieu Blazyat the time right-hand man of the controversial Lee.

Well, today Blazy made his debut on the platform, in front of a select audience – the most selected of all, an always wonderful Julianne Moore – conquering him with 69 exits, one more intriguing and cultured than the other. There New Bottega knows how to alternate more minimal and rigorous outfits a divertissement experimental but never ends in themselves, in an articulated and complex collection, but enjoyable even at first glance. Obvious flagship, all the accessories, and especially the bags with only one long handle, to be worn on the shoulder. If at a debut the risk that one can run is to hold back a little, or vice versa of overdoing it by sinning presumption, here Blazy avoids both one and the other. Center on the first try.

Fashion show you go, Hollywood celeb you find. From Dolce & Gabbana in the front row flirts with the lenses of photographers one Sharon Stone so radiant that it makes you cry for a miracle. The blonde star seems to appreciate, and she doesn’t surprise us, because the creative duo sends to the platform, against the backdrop of a video set that winks at the metaverse and her worlds still to be truly explored, a woman who knows what she wants and who takes it without asking anyone for anything.

The lesson of this collection – but perhaps of the whole Fashion Week – is that you can dress with volumes overand not for this not to be irresistibly sexy. A bold but seductive collection. With hypertrophic straps from power dressing, but also with suspenders at sight. Sparkling, but also edgy. Mischievous but also ironic (think of single-legged trousers). At Dolce & Gabbana the 80s are staged, the shocking colors, together with a lot of black that it immediately becomes femme fatalethe exaggerated volumes, the transparencies capable of sparkling like one disco ball. The real news? No embroidery, no prints. Almost a revolution.

Great expectations also for the relaunch of Trussardi, for some years away from the Milanese catwalks. A new designer duo – Serhat Isik and Benjamin A. Huseby, of the niche and cult brand among the youngest GmbH – the historic boutique in Piazza della Scala transformed into a construction site for its ongoing renovation, a soundtrack that sings you for direct to Berlin a few years ago (basses make the metallic plates of the scenography tremble, and we do not know how much the effect is desired) and clothes that are not easy to make immediately and clearly match the imagery linked to the greyhound brand. Will it take some time, perhaps, to make the speech clearer? Or maybe we just need time to familiarize ourselves with a completely new, decidedly darker and more experimental Trussardi?

In the separate chapter of the fashion shows that we like always and indeed more and more, a very important place goes to Jil Sanderin the vision that the duo – increasingly perfect in the role – of artistic directors has of the master brand of minimalism Lucie And Luke Meier, for 5 years at the creative reins. Strong silhouettes but not violent or exaggerated, sophisticated half shades, double-breasted jackets and coats that you just can’t help but want, it’s not admissible! Flat and stiff bows, a timid but full of character zodiac print, applause curls, buttons positioned where they can make the difference, maxi collars and mini capes, tailoring and craftsmanship seriously, not right for the pleasure of writing it. Beautiful everything. Even the scenography, a bizarre gallery of neoclassical statues in the dazzling white of a large room recreated – also – in a construction site.

Industrial location, and a little out of the way, even for Marni. The staging of the show is original: in the darkness of a shed filled with plants and shrubs, models come out almost everywhere, illuminated by assistants who illuminate them following them. The result is a kind of Pokemon hunt (Look, a model! Take a picture of him!), which perhaps does not allow you to enjoy the assemblages, the mending and the patches artfully created by the creative director Francesco Risso. At least until you go back outside – to gaze at the stars, indeed the blue sky – where an anarchically laid banquet, in which the models meet, restores the good mood.

The appeal of the great is missing at this point only Giorgio Armani, which once again generously chooses to parade on the penultimate day of the calendar, Sunday. We look forward to it.