Where to eat in Stockholm: from Michelin-starred restaurants to 18th-century restaurants

I often say that Scandinavia is a land full of surprises, where the mix of its people and landscapes results in fascinating discoveries. And Stockholm is a faithful representation of this. But the capital of Sweden goes further by revealing a gastronomic scene that will take your hat off.

After visiting some of the city’s main attractions for the 7th season of CNN Travel & Gastronomy, it’s time to appreciate the Stockholm gastronomy with restaurants ranging from Michelin-starred to very traditional.

Regardless of the address, one thing is certain: they revive Nordic and Swedish traditions and place local ingredients – seasonal and well-prepared – at the center of the table.

From a market to a brasserie, including Michelin-starred establishments (there are 12 in total) and a restaurant that has been operating in the same location since 1722, check out a delicious selection below to satisfy your craving for where to eat in Stockholm.

Where to eat in Stockholm:

Municipal market: ingredients and traditions


Daniela Filomeno at the Ostermalmshallen market in Stockholm

In the Östermalm district stands a brick building with over 130 years of history. I am talking about Östermalm Market Hall a kind of “market” in Stockholm, opened in 1888. Its difference lies in the traders: there are 18 of them, most of which are run by families, with stands that have been passed down through generations.

Here we come across – and delight in – the most diverse types of products. Imagine cheeses, meats, fish, seafood and typical sweets side by side. A stroll through the market reveals local roe, reindeer meat and different types of lobster.

Sitting down and enjoying a delicacy is irresistible. That’s because the best fish restaurants in the city are located here, as well as bars, delis and cafés to complete the experience. My tip is to look at the menu and sit at a table – or counter – that suits you best. Here, I enjoyed roe, cured salmon and even tried fresh steamed cod that fell apart into flakes.

The stores of Östermalm Market Hall They are open from Monday to Friday, from 9:30 am to 7 pm, and on Saturday, from 9:30 am to 5 pm. The restaurants open at night, and it is recommended to keep an eye on their websites.

Traditional and modern

Have you ever imagined a restaurant that has accumulated over 300 years of history, all without leaving the same address? That’s what it’s like. The Gyldene Freden , one of the oldest restaurants in the world operating in the old town of Stockholm since 1722. The place is cozy and resembles a large medieval house, with different corners.

The kitchen serves seasonal dishes and the tip is to keep an eye out for the classic herring, as well as the seasonal mushrooms and the shrimp mayonnaise – best accompanied by a shot of snaps, a traditional Scandinavian alcoholic drink that is a good excuse to balance out the fat. Want another interesting fact? The restaurant is owned by the Academy that makes the votes of the Nobel Prize in Literature therefore, its walls are witnesses to several very important decisions over the centuries.

To balance it out, a great option for a meal in a cool, modern environment is Brasserie Astoria one of those uncomplicated places with good food and friendly service. And it’s no wonder: it’s the chef’s latest venture Bjorn Frantzén behind the three-star Frantzén (more on that below).

Housed in a former movie theater, this charming spot serves French and Italian delicacies, such as tableside Caesar salad and filet mignon flambéed with cognac. Steak tartare, crispy truffle pizza and seafood linguini are also on the menu. Daily specials are offered during the week and there’s brunch on the weekends – and the main bar is worth checking out for classic cocktails.

Already in Södermalm, the Café Nizza It’s an unpretentious place that’s worth a visit. Influenced by French cuisine and Swedish flavors, the simple menu has dishes ranging from snacks to pasta and main courses. For 695 kronor (R$380), you get a starter, pasta and dessert. One of the most traditional items is cacio e pepe, made with sourdough bread, and it’s a good idea to have a glass of red wine on hand, as I did.

“I wanted a restaurant that connected with the community where we are, that experienced and developed together with the community,” he says. Johan Agrell chef and owner of Café Nizza. That’s why it’s open every day of the week, as well as for lunch on weekends. And for those who can’t get a table, the alternative is Nice Cellar neighboring wine bar.

Michelin-starred restaurants in Stockholm


Norwegian scallop with caviar from Ekstedt restaurant

To enjoy modern Nordic cuisine, a good place to start is to book a table at Aira a two-Michelin-starred restaurant in an idyllic location overlooking the Baltic Sea – one of the ways to get here is by boat. The Swedish chefs Tommy Myllymäki and Pi Le They focus on seasonal ingredients and serve dishes using international techniques. For me, it was one of the best meals of the trip.

The ultra-modern house has large windows overlooking the water, making the proximity to nature a relevant factor in the experience. Inside, the “chef’s table” is one of the best places to watch the kitchen, where a tasting menu is served for lunch and dinner for 3,250 Swedish kronor (about R$1,784).

The meal might start with a dill-crusted canapé stuffed with crayfish and pickled onions. Other options include smoked Arctic char with chanterelles and beans with mushroom tuille, and quail breast with crispy leeks. A shorter, pre-fixe menu is also served for lunch on Thursday and Friday for 1,850 kroner (about R$1,000).

Already close to Östermalm Market Hall is the Extedt with a star and piloted by the chef Nikolas Ekstedt . He asks us a question: how was ancient Swedish cuisine made? The answer lies in the fire. “We wanted to open a restaurant dedicated to Scandinavian culinary techniques,” the chef tells me, who uses ancient Scandinavian techniques to prepare contemporary food with seasonal ingredients.

The first dish I tried was a scallop cooked directly over charcoal, without a pan. The Norwegian scallop is hand-picked and the Swedish charcoal is chemical-free and burns slowly. The idea is to caramelize the outside of the scallop so that the center is still raw. “One of the great things I discovered when I started working with Scandinavian ingredients is that we didn’t use the fire like a grill. We used high, fast heat. That way we could sear it and serve it very quickly,” says Nikolas.

Another interesting dish is the oyster cooked in the fat of the meat. “In the old days, in Scandinavia, we didn’t eat raw oysters, but rather cooked them, and we cooked them under the rotisserie. While we were roasting the meat, we cooked the oysters,” explains the chef. Definitely an interesting experience, the place serves a set menu for 2,600 kroner (around R$1,427).

The only three Michelin stars in all of Sweden is Frantzén in Gamla Stan, the old town. The chef Bjorn Frantzén is behind the venture, which spans 23 seats, three floors and 521 m². Dishes that combine Nordic cuisine with classic and modern techniques arrive at our table. Combinations with fish, seafood and spices are extremely appetizing and the same set menu with several courses is served for lunch and dinner for 4,800 Swedish kronor (around R$2,636).

More tips on where to eat:

  • Italian : The Paganini Restaurant in Gamla Stan, has been serving pasta since 1995. Here, traditional rigatoni, carbonara, mushroom risotto, as well as burrata, carpaccio and bruschetta are served in a casual atmosphere with checkered tablecloths;
  • Coffee and lunch in the garden : the public garden restaurant Rosendals Tradgard on the island of Djurgården, where most of the museums are located, is an option for lunches, sandwiches and seasonal sweets. The restaurant uses organic vegetables grown on site and artisanal breads, all served inside the greenhouse or in the orchard. There is also a choice of wines, beers and lemonades;
  • Modern bistro : The Matbaren at the Grand Hôtel, is a modern bistro in the Michelin Guide’s Bib Gourmand selection. Led by chef Mathias Dahlgren the dishes are medium-sized and benefit from seasonal ingredients that result in Scandinavian flavors – the counter is ideal for a view of the open kitchen;
  • Seafood : opened in the 19th century, the Sturehof is a classic brasserie with clear French influences that focuses on seafood. Think oysters, lobster, shrimp, salmon and monkfish, but also rabbit and entrecôte.

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